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I have been working on my car since Wed off and on...finally installed my R/t head, conp 400 cam, cam gear, and FF LTH. got everything installed and started it up for the first time....nothing...checked the timing and it was off 90 degrees my dad installed the cam gear wrong....so we ripped it apart and put it back 2gether...timing is on...went to start it up...nothing on the first crank...then it started...runs really crappy now and i cant rev past 2k. the codes im throwning are P0038 HO2S Heater Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2
and
P0340 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Circuit ....
here are some things i found out after we tired to start it...on the bottom o2 sensor we needed to extend the wires bc we moved the cat further back....there are 2 white wires...my dad didnt check to make sure he attached the correct white to white...do u think that is causing my first code...

the second code...no clue what it means...i used the stock sensor from my old head (sxt). The person that shipped me the R/T head gave me an extra sensor...should i use that (didnt have time to swich them out today) i really need to get my car up and running. any help would be greatly appreciated....

a few more things....i cant start the car up on the first crank...wont start, but it does start on the second...any thoughts on it....this project is turing into a headache....first we bent my Mpx underdrive pully, and we also broke the power stearing pully (no clue how this happeneed) and i think the tension pully is bad too....

If your cam gear was off 90* do a compression check, you may have valve issues. Always turn motor by hand at least two revolutions, and recheck timing. but thats beside the point now. The camshaft code, I would guess is from the timing being off on the first try, unless you disconnected the battery inbetween timing adjustment. The white heater wires shouldn't be polarity sensitive, just like wiring a light bulb - it will burn either way. Check for shorts or grounding out. Sounds like a really bad day. Take a step back Yell at the gods collect yourself grit your teeth and dig in. I hope everything turns out for the better.

we had the battery disconnected all day while we ripped it apart and put it back 2gether...i have a feeling a sensor is off, but im not sure

ok looked at it again today and we forgot to put the camshaft positon sensor in...ugggg still not running correctly...im not getting any codes tho...im gonna have to tear it apart 2morrow and put it back 2gether...not fun

I was going to ask if you swapped the cam magnet but I figured since it was running, tho not well, that you did, but if it runs w/o the sensor...
I guess it would run but the fuel isn't injected at the right phase. The pcm needs the cam signal to know when to fire the injectors. Was the timing 90* off at the cam or the crank? the crank would only be 45* at the cam, but I'm almost sure that's enough to mess with the valves...

it never ran when it was off 90 degree, so i dont think there was any damage, but ill find out soon

started it up for the first time....nothing...checked the timing and it was off 90 degrees my dad installed the cam gear wrong....

Even if you cranked it with the starter motor it will damage the valves if you were that far off. But unless you sold your old head the valves from the standard head will work in the Mag head (if the mag hasn't had oversize valves installed) Just the PITA of all those valve locks. If you have to swap valves may as well install new seals while your there...
Edit: If you have dial calipers check the stems for wear and match them as close as possible to the valves you pull. The guides wear more than the stems so it may not be an issue. But I really hope that it doesn't come to that anyway.

update

ok tore it apart today, no damage to valves or pistons....after we got it back 2gether (found 2 ground wires that wernt hooked up) it ran, but idled horribly and died...threw code p0016 (cam misalignment)...the senor is either bad or magnet...i read on here and neons.org that people that installed the comp 400 cam had the same problem....not sure, but im gonna replace the magnet and sensor tomorrow...hopefully i can get it to run...and replace my power stearing pully (sucks i have to do the work, but the pully was only $14, so im not to mad)...lol my dad broke this too during the install...im doing the work by myself from now on

Cool about the valves! Too bad you don't have a degree wheel to check the valve timing. That way if you know it's physically where it shuold be, if your still getting cam position problems with new magnet/sensor. Then the only thing it could be is the cam magnet holes are wrong. Or you'll know something is wack with the cam gear pin. It will not open the valves @ spec. if the pin is wrong and the marks are right. But you need a TDC tool, degree wheel and dial indicator, and patience to verify. And chances that the cam is machined wrong are very slim anyways. But sometimes it just feels better to know you have one less variable to worry about.
Edit: I've almost done this myself check your coil and cam sensor connectors to see if they're switched. http://forum.2gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=23 ... mp+400+cam
Very easy to do....

stupid magnet never came in, so i need to wait another day b4 i get the car to run...

i checked all the sensors last time i tore it apart just to make sure...they were all hooked up correctly

How did I miss this thread? It probably is your cam magnet if it's not the cam position sensor. I had the same problem, threw 2 codes (P0016, P0344). The car ran like crap and wouldn't rev over 2.4k, swapped the magnet and no codes and no limp mode. Hopefully it's not something else....

So I got the magnet in....never installed it tho....i guess while i was at work my father decided to tear the car apart again....the Fidanza Adjustable Cam Gear i bought we never even thought about getting the bolts tight on it...the stupid thing threw us off 3 teeth at least....last night when i stopped over my dads house the car started up perfect....today all we have to do is get the underdrive pully on and replace the belts...then i can finally wire up my Oil and AEM Wideband and take it to the muffler shop and have them weld everything on.....this freaking project suckded, but i guess i learned a lot from teaing the motor down 3x

Good to hear! Hope the rest goes better, so you can start enjoying your PITA!!

thanks....its at the muffler shop now...cant wait to get it back...Had 1 final Bad luck event b4 it is all over.....we changed my oil b4 we took it to the muffler shop, then wired up my gauges...as i was backing out of the garage my dad was yelling at me to stop...guess i forgot to take the oil pan out from under the car....of corse it broke up and got oil all over the dirveway....hmmmm