should i replace all the camber bolts? and alignment Q

jT · Post by jT » Wed Oct 24, 2007 9:53 am

ok so when i had my new tires put on the tire place said i needed a camber correction kit on one wheel... ive read a couple threads and someone said the camber bolts from autozone or advance auto may not be very high quality.. so that led me to looking at modern performance's bolts that others have suggested... which led me to trying to find them cheaper on ebay... which led me to finding OBX bolts.. which led me to reading a thread here about said OBX bolts from ebay and getting front/rear bolts of the same size when the rear are smaller............ also read a thread about the adjustable bolts getting knocked out of position and screwing the alignment up.. so ill probably avoid adjustable ones

now that brings me back to regular bolts...

should i replace them all at the same time? is there any reason/performance value for new bolts (from modern maybe) over stock bolts? i will be putting on new struts and springs (tokico hp and either matching tokico springs or vogtland springs, not sure yet) if it matters

and is there a certain why youre supposed to install the bolts? i dont see anything in my haynes about the bolts...

since there are 2 per wheel, thats 8 bolts.. almost $100 just for stupid bolts

also ive read that a lot of people set their alignment (camber, etc) to specific values .... and not the standard stock suggestion for values.... WHY? whats the purpose of running with a different camber/caster/toe/foot/finger?

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 12:39 pm

First I would wonder why only one wheel, has car been wrecked? when it's been lowered generally you need them for all four. AFAIK the only ones that came with adjustable bolts were SOME ACR's? Other than that the holes need to be enongated in the strut and bolts from DCX used otherwise use Eibach or MPX. If they're installed right they won't come loose got aprox. 30,000 on mine with no issues.

kc2005ptgt · Post by **kc2005ptgt** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 2:06 pm

not necesarilly will you need CC bolts for all four corners once lowered... on my car I needed only the rear passenger adjusted with bolts... the rest were within acceptable range.

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 2:43 pm

Also if you do need them it only requires one per strut. you need the regular bolt in one hole to act as the pivot.

jT · Post by jT » Wed Oct 24, 2007 5:28 pm

hmm

Diablo0 wrote:Or buy another set of bolts to use one bolt on the top and one on the bottom.

daver wrote: Anyway all these bolts are are M12 bolts with a little cam on the unthreaded section, and an M14 head on them. You really shouldn't use just 1 bolt on each front with the other oem bolt as the oem bolts have splines on them. The point of cam'd camber bolts is to pivot on the other regular bolt, which you really shouldn't be doing with a splined bolt, so technically you need a pair of camber bolts for each front, or at least grind the splines off the stock bolts so the strut/knuckle can pivot properly and use 1 modified oem bolt, and 1 camber bolt per strut.

from http://forum.2gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=28 ... obx+camber

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 9:05 pm

I'm a little silly but I could not just have 1 camber bolt on my car (not to mention those from Modern and Eibach are a pair). I do one and I've got to do them all. Getting the set from Modern is a pretty good price. I think I had my next day delivered for $65 (front and back camber kits)

silverneontuner · Post by **silverneontuner** » Thu Oct 25, 2007 1:59 am

set the toe and go buddy, unless your scrubbing tires. other wise there is little camber adjustnment on stock struts.

jT · Post by jT » Thu Oct 25, 2007 3:50 am

the point is i was originally told that i needed a camber correction kit (for some reason) and one of the wheels couldnt be totally aligned properly because of it..

i plan to do new struts in the near future so wondering if i should change all the bolts for any reason

now im confused as to how many i would actually need anyways.. some say 1 per, some say 2 per.. oh man..

NiteHawk · Post by **NiteHawk** » Thu Oct 25, 2007 5:28 am

you need 1 bolt per corner...if needed...

i have 3 on my car, when i lowered it, i only need 1, but as things settled, i needed another 2...

the correction bolts allow for a wider range of adjustment for camber. if they told you to get one, GET IT so that the camber can be brought back into the acceptable range.

again, only 1 bolt per strut has to be a camber correction bolt, and you only need them IF the camber can not be brought into the acceptable range.

jT · Post by jT » Thu Oct 25, 2007 6:44 am

thanks for clearing that up

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Oct 25, 2007 7:36 am

NiteHawk wrote:you need 1 bolt per corner...if needed...

i have 3 on my car, when i lowered it, i only need 1, but as things settled, i needed another 2...

the correction bolts allow for a wider range of adjustment for camber. if they told you to get one, GET IT so that the camber can be brought back into the acceptable range.

again, only 1 bolt per strut has to be a camber correction bolt, and you only need them IF the camber can not be brought into the acceptable range.

Mine only took one per.

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Thu Oct 25, 2007 9:18 am

Sorry if I made things confusing. Only 1 bolt per strut, but the kits that I got from Modern came in pairs (one for each side), then there are front and rear kits.

Now, in some rare cases (if the alignment is really out) I've heard people saying that you could use two camber bolts on a strut to get more motion, but no one really thought that was a good fix to a larger problem. That and there was a higher risk of the bolts shifting, which would then throw your alignment out again.