sheared off engine mount bolt.

ilea · Post by **ilea** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 8:51 am

So... I'm getting down to the the nitty gritty of fixing up the mechanical end of my car.

The automatic tensioner pulley is shot. It's got a big chunk out of it and it's warped.

So I go to remove the right engine mount, I pull the plug and the head of the bolt is hanging loose and the rest of it is still in the mounting bracket/engine.

So I can probably have this bolt drilled out and tapped right? Do you guys think I need to take the engine out to have that done or could they go in though the hole in the side of the frame?

Meanwhile any thoughts on how to get the mounting bracket off so I can change the pulley?

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 9:18 am

That is a tough one. How much of the bolt is left? If just the head is gone and the break is level enough you may be able to drill a hole for an easyout. But if there isn't a way to drill, you won't get the mount assy out with the bolt sticking in the frame mounted part. Even if you can get the mount bolts loose from the "frame" the rubber still won't let it lift out. the only other soulution I can think of right now would be to support the motor/trans assy and remove the upper and lower torque struts, dissconnect the trans. mount and see if you can get the assy over to the drivers side enough to get some vise grips on it to back it out. I don't know that it will come over enough to clear the motor mount without popping an axle out of the diff.
Edit: how many miles are on the engine? If your pulling the tensioner/motor mount assy anyway might as well do a timing belt change - you're halfway there. 105,000 is the recommended for2gn. if your close may as well if it's in your budget.

latief · Post by **latief** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 9:41 am

A picture will help a lot with this one...

this should help i think ,,,,,,

http://chronoscender.freeservers.com/ne ... gbelt.html

EVOneon2K · Post by **EVOneon2K** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 11:48 am

is it the upper are lower mount that the head snapped on? the bottom should be rather easy but the tops a little different.

ilea · Post by **ilea** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 12:49 pm

The bolt I am talking about is the torx bolt that is accessable through a plugged hole in the wheel well and goes through the front engine mount into the engine mount bracket (and from what I can tell from the FSM diagrams it goes into the engine) The bolt is broken off into the bracket with nothing sticking out.

Edit:.. I *know* it goes into the engine. I removed the three bolts to the engine mount bracket assembly and it won't come out. Argh!

03blackrt · Post by **03blackrt** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 12:52 pm

Technically it's called the right engine mount, even though it attaches to the front of the motor.

Since the mounting bolt only goes into the engine cradle IIRC, I'd try to remove the three bolts that attach the cradle to the motor and remove the four bolts that attach the mount to the frame; then try to remove both mount and cradle at the same time. Once you got that out it should be very easy to drill the bolt and use a reverse threading, self tapping bolt/screw to remove the broken bolt.

ilea · Post by **ilea** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 12:56 pm

occasional demons wrote: Edit: how many miles are on the engine? If your pulling the tensioner/motor mount assy anyway might as well do a timing belt change - you're halfway there. 105,000 is the recommended for2gn. if your close may as well if it's in your budget.

Man I am soooo lucky what that. When I bought the car I bought a warranty and about 2 months later the water pump seized. They had to completely rebuild the engine the damage was so bad and it was all covered by warrenty.

40,000 miles later... here I am out of warranty with a bad automatic tensioner pulley and a bolt broken off in the engine.

Beating the car with a wrench *may* make me feel better.