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Just changed it for 3rd time this one hopefully will be okay this time and its some new brand...
so again when I drive the car for while and then stop I hear some sounds from inside, something like water boiling !? but again I don't put water in my neon only antifreeze... so what do you think?

Have you checked you rad cap is still good? (sometimes the simplest things).

Boiling temp is altered by pressure (or more specifically, the boiling temp is decreased with low/no pressure).

What does the temp gauge show?

Just a thought from an old problem that was always blamed on a water pump. Not sure on the history behind this, and still reading/learning about the 2gn's (great site w/ lots of info here)

Wizzard~Of~Ozz wrote:Have you checked you rad cap is still good? (sometimes the simplest things).

Boiling temp is altered by pressure (or more specifically, the boiling temp is decreased with low/no pressure).

What does the temp gauge show?

Just a thought from an old problem that was always blamed on a water pump. Not sure on the history behind this, and still reading/learning about the 2gn's (great site w/ lots of info here)

It is okay. But actually I don't have a reservoir cap. I am trying to find one used but I can't, because I don't really have many options in my area.

The reservoir cap just keeps the dust out.. A plastic bag is just as effective

I still haven't checked too much stuff on mine (just got it a bit over a month ago) But I've seen caps that looked fine, but failed to hold pressure (bad spring perhaps). If it's still OEM, for the 5$, it might be worth a try. I haven't seen a car go through 3 water pumps inside of 4-5 years? I think I've read they are rated for 100K Miles on the 2gn (same as timing belt)

Wizzard~Of~Ozz wrote:The reservoir cap just keeps the dust out.. A plastic bag is just as effective

I still haven't checked too much stuff on mine (just got it a bit over a month ago) But I've seen caps that looked fine, but failed to hold pressure (bad spring perhaps). If it's still OEM, for the 5$, it might be worth a try. I haven't seen a car go through 3 water pumps inside of 4-5 years? I think I've read they are rated for 100K Miles on the 2gn (same as timing belt)

I know its funny. I changed it like 3 weeks ago. And it broke yesterday.

not really that funny more like expensive..

If you get the broken parts back, what is broken on them? Perhaps that is the best place to start.

Also, Antifreeze does boil, just at a higher temp then water..

something like water boiling !? but again I don't put water in my neon only antifreeze

(all of this is from my bad memory of high school science class)

Mix Antifreeze and Water 50/50 for the highest level of protection. Might even try a surfactant like Redline Water Wetter.

Xtian wrote:Just changed it for 3rd time this one hopefully will be okay this time and its some new brand...
so again when I drive the car for while and then stop I hear some sounds from inside, something like water boiling !? but again I don't put water in my neon only antifreeze... so what do you think?

Are you getting your water pumps from Mopar?

Why do you think it is the water pump? What has the condition been of the old ones when removed?

Why are you using only antifreeze? ...a 60%/40% or 70%/30% solution will provide good all around protection.

Also check your rad cap and heater core. When the vehicle gets up to operating temperature you should notice the level of coolant in the reservoir go up.

100% antifreeze FTL! It WILL freeze without water in it, the viscosity is thicker, and the sensors are affected by the wrong mix. They are designed to work with the 50/50 to 60/40 mix. Also old coolant will mess with sensors. As the acidity levels change your cooling systerm becomes a battery producing up to a volt or more.

occasional demons wrote:100% antifreeze FTL! It WILL freeze without water in it, the viscosity is thicker, and the sensors are affected by the wrong mix. They are designed to work with the 50/50 to 60/40 mix. Also old coolant will mess with sensors. As the acidity levels change your cooling systerm becomes a battery producing up to a volt or more.

so is that why my new battery was already dead 5 times?

Xtian wrote:

Wizzard~Of~Ozz wrote:The reservoir cap just keeps the dust out.. A plastic bag is just as effective

I still haven't checked too much stuff on mine (just got it a bit over a month ago) But I've seen caps that looked fine, but failed to hold pressure (bad spring perhaps). If it's still OEM, for the 5$, it might be worth a try. I haven't seen a car go through 3 water pumps inside of 4-5 years? I think I've read they are rated for 100K Miles on the 2gn (same as timing belt)

I know its funny. I changed it like 3 weeks ago. And it broke yesterday.

I'm almost 99.9% positive that if your water pump "broke," your timing belt would go along with it. The water pump is driven by the timing belt, so if it fails, it usually takes the belt along with it. I would get a complete flush done, get a new cap, and make sure there is no air in the system at all. About the battery, I don't see the cooling system affecting it. Maybe get the alternator checked out.

Upon closer inspection of my old water pump...

It wasn't broke, but well on the way. There was evidence of a small leak + it was not rotating smoothly

Xtian wrote:

occasional demons wrote:100% antifreeze FTL! It WILL freeze without water in it, the viscosity is thicker, and the sensors are affected by the wrong mix. They are designed to work with the 50/50 to 60/40 mix. Also old coolant will mess with sensors. As the acidity levels change your cooling systerm becomes a battery producing up to a volt or more.

so is that why my new battery was already dead 5 times?

Like danman132x said get your charging system or alternator belt checked. The only thing that the cooling system voltage will possibly influence is the sensors that are in contact with it (coolant temp) and the life of your head gasket.
Basically it can be checked by sticking one end of a volt meter into the filler cap by the T'stat and grounding the other end to the head or block, as long as it's something metal. If I remember anthing over .5 volt or so means the coolant is getting too high in acidity. The best way is to check when coolant is changed to get a baseline voltage then check it every now and then.