2GN.ORG

After waitng for about 2wks i just recieved my stainless steel header and downpipe today. Everything was going good until the headers didnt want to bolt up, after about two hours of trying to get the bolts in i finally decided to take the headers back off and compare between the two. Now the shape was the same and so was the designe, but the only thing that was different was the holes. They were nowhere near the same same as the stock headers, man i was so pissed off i just wanted to got woop some a$$. And after all that work all the stock stuff had to go back on.

AND THAT SUCKED!!

Did you get an OBX header? Long tube? Short?

did the description say it would bolt right up wit out modifications

most importantly, is there room on the flange to drill press the proper holes?

Wenuden wrote:...is there room on the flange to drill press the proper holes?

+1

I am willing to bet that either its for a different car, or set-up for an R/T.

^ r/t has the same bolt pattern.

My guess is it's for the wrong car and/or a dohc header

03blackrt wrote:^ r/t has the same bolt pattern.

My guess is it's for the wrong car and/or a dohc header

If it is for a DOHC, it should be glaringly obvious..... did they provide any pics ??

-Nick

this is what it looks like:



INFO:
4-1 Stainless Steel Racing Header.
OEM quality. CNC Machine Flanges
Directly fits on the Stock Dodge Neon SOHC Engines
LightWeight Designed. Increase 10-15 HP
Gaskets included. Direct fit
Fitment: 00-04 Dodge Neon SOHC

the holes wasnt the same as the stock.

I can't tell 100% from the pic the configuration of the holes. It is definitely the right shaped pipes for the SOHC, but if they welded the flanges on wrong you're screwed if you can't return it. if they are the same configuration as the OEM bolt pattern but the bolt holes are a little off, then they could be drilled or better filed out to where they need to be. The best thing to do would be to get the one piece gasket and hold it on the header flange and be sure the tubes themselves haven't been bent in shipping. If the pipe holes line up, then just mark the material that needs to be removed and get it to fit, or send it back if that's an option... best of luck.

I've heard you need to "pry" the individual tubes to fit the head properly on the OBX shorties

Adionik wrote:I've heard you need to "pry" the individual tubes to fit the head properly on the OBX shorties

Here's an idea, not sure how well it may work, but if all the mount holes are good other than the tubes being off just a bit. Bolt the header to the cast iron OEM manifold, face to face, so the tubes line up where they should be and crank your oven as high as it will go and bake them, maybe removing them and letting them air cool and reheating a few times. It may help to get them to stay where they should be, if there is enough heat to relieve the internal stresses of the metal. It might work.(wouldn't hold my breath) it has to be better than getting a bolt cross threaded in the head. Or if there is enough space to mount it, get some studs and install them in the head then slide the header onto them and use locking hardware with the nuts. I generally prefer studs where they don't make mounting impossible due to clearance issues, especially in aluminum heads.

i took a pic of the header itself and another one holding the two against each other, ill post'em up soon.

it might have the bolt pattern for the 1st gen. neon. not the 2gen

half_twisted wrote:it might have the bolt pattern for the 1st gen. neon. not the 2gen

IT'S THE SAME

fusion210 wrote:

half_twisted wrote:it might have the bolt pattern for the 1st gen. neon. not the 2gen

IT'S THE SAME

The diference is on the down pipe end. The 2gn's use the style in above pic and the 1gn's use a flex/ball joint type connection. The head to manifold (or header) mounting is the same.