drilled/slotted rotors discussion.

Baal · Post by **Baal** » Thu Jul 21, 2005 9:49 pm

Well anyone who has done their homework is that they really dont improve in braking distance, but do they REALLY help with fade?

Lots of ppl will tell you that it wont help with fade bla bla bla, but if not i dont see why you see Enzos and carreras GT with drilled disks.

any inputs?

Post by **Diablo0** » Thu Jul 21, 2005 10:44 pm

I'm gonna have to say that braking distace has not changed but yes they do improve brake fade.

With my stock rotors I slighly warped them in 9K, they were replaced under warranty. Another 9K they slightly warped again and then were turned. After that I just bought Powerslots every since then I've made many hard stops and they feel just as good as when I put them on and I've got over 30K now with them on.

If you are asking about drilled and slotted rotors, it think it will also help reduce face BUT... drilled rotors are more likely to crack than slotted so I'd stay away from drilled. Also, with them being drilled and slotted you are also loosing surface area for the pads to grip onto to help in stopping distance... so distance may suffer a little due to that.

fflores · Post by **fflores** » Fri Jul 22, 2005 2:04 am

I just got Mopar Super Stage 1 cross-drilled rotors on all 4 corners... I don't kow, it might help on the brakeing... at least in extreme braking situations... i know they saved my butt earlier this week when someone blew a stop sign... as for the brake fade... they definately do help there... I will be auto-crossing this weekend, i'll let you know how they hold up...

I do hear however that "steel braded" brake lines do extremely help with brake fade... that might be my next upgrade

Baal · Post by **Baal** » Fri Jul 22, 2005 8:20 pm

I dont complain about braking distance, its pretty good, but the fade is horrible.

I run rallys in the mountains, rallys have arround 150 total miles, wich 60 are race.

Just imagine those distances wich 50% are very twisty downhills... obviosly in the last stages of the race i have about 20% of the braking, the fade is HORRIBLE!!

PS: why would steel braided lines help with fade? -.-

dawm · Post by **dawm** » Fri Jul 22, 2005 11:25 pm

not to go off topic, but how hard is it to swap out the rear rotors, i got some new OEM rotors to replace mine that have some gouges, just wondering whats all involved (havent even looked in the FSM yet)

Baal · Post by **Baal** » Sat Jul 23, 2005 4:32 am

dawm wrote:not to go off topic, but how hard is it to swap out the rear rotors, i got some new OEM rotors to replace mine that have some gouges, just wondering whats all involved (havent even looked in the FSM yet)

pretty simple.

Frizbe · Post by **Frizbe** » Sat Jul 23, 2005 5:50 am

Baal wrote:I dont complain about braking distance, its pretty good, but the fade is horrible.

I run rallys in the mountains, rallys have arround 150 total miles, wich 60 are race.

Just imagine those distances wich 50% are very twisty downhills... obviosly in the last stages of the race i have about 20% of the braking, the fade is HORRIBLE!!

PS: why would steel braided lines help with fade? -.-

rubber lines will expand under braking and more fluid is required to fill the void, steel braided lines wont expand.

Baal · Post by **Baal** » Sat Jul 23, 2005 7:08 pm

linkinevo wrote:
Baal wrote:I dont complain about braking distance, its pretty good, but the fade is horrible.

I run rallys in the mountains, rallys have arround 150 total miles, wich 60 are race.

Just imagine those distances wich 50% are very twisty downhills... obviosly in the last stages of the race i have about 20% of the braking, the fade is HORRIBLE!!

PS: why would steel braided lines help with fade? -.-
rubber lines will expand under braking and more fluid is required to fill the void, steel braided lines wont expand.

i know brake lines expand, but it doesnt explain why particulary it will help with FADE.

JeremyJ · Post by **JeremyJ** » Sun Jul 24, 2005 3:23 pm

The brakes and lines get hotter after heavy constant usage. The warmer brake lines will expand more and more with the heat, thus causing fade.

Baal · Post by **Baal** » Sun Jul 24, 2005 9:31 pm

JeremyJ wrote:The brakes and lines get hotter after heavy constant usage. The warmer brake lines will expand more and more with the heat, thus causing fade.

the brake lines doesnt really get that hot in the neon since they have phenolic pistons.

dblsg · Post by **dblsg** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 10:07 am

what exactly are phenolic pistons?

GTS · Post by **GTS** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 1:08 pm

For shorter stops get wider tires 205, 215 or even 225 if you can and then if you want to keep the stock rotors go with Ceramic brake pads by Bosch I got mine for ~50 i think and always make sure that the nuts on the wheel are torqued in a star pattern and with a torque wrench, I learned that the hard way.

Tighter or looser bolts actually cause warping on the rotors.

Baal · Post by **Baal** » Tue Jul 26, 2005 11:26 pm

dblsg wrote:what exactly are phenolic pistons?

The material of the brake piston, its an isolator, so it doesnt transfer heat to the brake lines, thats why our brake fluid runs pretty cold compared to other cars

PS: i have Hawks HP plus pads, they really heat the rotor up.