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ok i got my gauges today i need one source which is 12v constant and one that is 12v swithed.. preferably in the inside fuse box so i can use an add a fuse thing..

I used the orange illumination off of the HVAC panel for the light. i can't rmember which one, the orange with white or orance wire i used.

the cigarette lighter is a switch 12v

what is the constant 12v for?

this is because the gauges are 7 color changing so i will have to reset them everytime unless i have a constant...

how much current is needed?

12v i think.. it says constant 12v source.

Current is amps. I wouldn't think it would be hardly any if it's just for memory. Would suck if the gauges ran the battery down. An add a circuit would be fine for this. I can see the point of wanting to run from the interior fuse box: close to the pillar.
Fuses 14, 15, 16 are fused to the battery (constant). Positon 13 (not used) also fused B+ may have power there. An add a circuit may work in that hole, there would be just the hot side terminal to hold the adapter in place.
1 through 7 and 9 through11 are switched to the Ign.
8 and 12 have nothing, no conductors.
For the illumination follow racer12306's advice. should be just orange.
Edit: That is if they are dimmable. the orange a variable voltage for the HVAC and ATX shifter. The instrument cluster uses a red wire

huge help dude.. looks like ill be going and getting two add a circuts one for the constant and one for the ignition! thanks.

i remember i cut one and it was wrong, and it was the other one. i remember thinking it was wierd.

but if you cut the wrong wire, its just two crimps away from being a continuous wire again

i dont need illumination there always illuminated because they are tinted.. i have gauge over lays too my gauge cluster will be getting tinted as well..

question... for the constant the 14 15 and 16 fuses are all over 10amp and the add a fuse is only 10 amp fuses.. so now what..

krc21 wrote:question... for the constant the 14 15 and 16 fuses are all over 10amp and the add a fuse is only 10 amp fuses.. so now what..

Just to make sure. Unless you are using a switch, the constant 12V circuits will illuminate your gauges even when there is not a key in the car. This will drain your battery at a decent rate, unless their led lit.

If you're looking to get a certain fuse rating for your gauge circuit, consider an inline fuse. In that case, you would tap in to the non-fused side in the fuse box. Tappin into the fused side would give you a somewhat false rating since the circuit that is allready using the fuse has an amp draw of its own.

nope the gauges are specially wired.. they come pre wired so the illumination comes on at ignition and the constant is just for the memory..

Not sure what you're using for the add a fuse, but these don't come with a fuse, so you could put what you want in there. The 10 amp max should be fine, if thats what you're referring to. I doubt those gauges are going to draw much.

http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servlet/ ... 875&page=1

oh damn i get it now.. so i can put a 20 amp fuse in so that stays and then i can put a 10amp in the one with the wire from it..

I would put a ten back in the slot that replaces the existing fusebox circuit, and a 5 or less in the Gauge circuit. I can't see them drawing more than a couple amps when in operation. If you have a multimeter, you could run the power through the meter to get the amp draw of the gauges. Then put a fuse in about 2 amps higher than that.

use a fuse tap, and go from the ignition fuse, then you have 12V that will go off with the key.

what about the memory on the radio?

already got it.. i added two add a fuse works great.