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so I am on my 2nd optima red top battery. My first one lasted me 2 years and then all of a sudden went bad this past june. I got the new one that I currently have, and all of a sudden I went to drive it today and i have no power.

My alarm works fine, actually I cant get the alarm to stay off whenever i pop the hood or close the doors. But no lights. and the car wont start.

Obviously there is a drain somewhere....but where should i start checking. I do have a sub and 2 amps in the car, but its never been an issue til now.

any ideas?

if the alarm continues to go off, doesnt that mean there is power

If your lights/horn still work, swap the horn relay for the starter relay in the fuse box (PDC) by the battery. If that doesn't do it, the starter is prolly on it's way out. Try tapping it with a pipe or broomstick, while someone holds the key to start. If it cranks, its the starter. If you have an MTX: it could also be the clutch switch going bad, an ATX: it may be the neutral saftey switch.
Edit: But then some alarms have their own battery back up. But the above will still work if there is power to everything when the key is turned to "start". If all goes dark when the starter is engaged, then you have other issues. Optimas will die with out warning, (Personal experience).but I would like to think it wouldn't happen twice in a row. My replacement is going on 7 or 8 years now.

yeah...that was my assumption too. But nothing works. radio wont come on, lights wont come on, nothing. I tried to disarm the alarm, but I dont have the viper book with me. I always forget how to disarm it w/ the valet switch since I never have to.

OK recharge the battery and leave the (+) cable unhooked. Pull the connctors off the PCM , and get a test light. Go from the (+) terminal to the (+) cable. If it lights, start pulling fuses til it goes out. Anything that has saved settings, will make it light since that provides a ground path for the test light. An open door will make it light, so the doors need to be shut between checking. This test is easier on older cars, since there are less things to go through, but it might find your problem. It could be anywhere, even your alternator grounding out at the connector from corrosion.

^ that should totally help you narrow the problem. a multimeter would give you a better idea than the test light though, since you would be able to see what the actual voltage draw is.

thanks for the info! I havent tried to fix it just yet, but hopefully Ill get to it that this week