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1. Coolant reservoir is located above the exhaust heads. Does that mean the water inside is cooked by the exhaust and then is sent into the engine? in this case the coolant water will always be hot...

2. Intake manifold is located behind the radiator. So all the air pass thru it will be firstly cooked by the heat from the radiator. So all the air that is sent to the engine will be hot?

In this case is there anyway to prevent those happened? or that's just 2gn... or maybe these thing do not have a big effect on the performance?

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Oh man, there are way bigger design problems with this car than that.

hummm never really fort about the coolant but a nice srt4 style hood would sort that out

Its not a design problem unless problems are caused by them.

1. My coolant is 5 years old and has 87000 miles on it. Zero issues.

2. The air is drawn in from the fender, zero hot air (unless it is 100+* outside) goes into the engine.

none of these are problems end of thread.......

esfan wrote:1. Coolant reservoir is located above the exhaust heads. Does that mean the water inside is cooked by the exhaust and then is sent into the engine? in this case the coolant water will always be hot...

2. Intake manifold is located behind the radiator. So all the air pass thru it will be firstly cooked by the heat from the radiator. So all the air that is sent to the engine will be hot?

In this case is there anyway to prevent those happened? or that's just 2gn... or maybe these thing do not have a big effect on the performance?

The fix is to turn the engine around 180 degrees such that the exhaust manifold is at the front by the rad.

racer12306 wrote:Its not a design problem unless problems are caused by them.
2. The air is drawn in from the fender, zero hot air (unless it is 100+* outside) goes into the engine.

A better statement would be there is zero relatively hot air entering the intake tract.

Have you ever put you hand on the IM after driving for a bit? There is plenty of heated air going into the engine.

Just like the millions of engines built before the 2.0

It isn't really a "problem" just how it is. Even if the neon had the Eclipse style head, the intake mani is still going to be heated by the underhood temps. If you want a cool IM, build a pipe buggy, and have the radiator behind the engine. Of course you will still need one of those insulating spacers to help reduce thermal conductivity.

This design has been done before. In my '93 Civic the exhaust manifold is in the front of the engine bay (behind the radiator) and the intake manifold is in the rear with the coolant reservoir tank. This (in my opinion) is a better design.

Although, as you move forward the hot air would move toward the rear of the engine bay so everything gets cooked either way...

These have probably posted here already earlier. These refer the ATX-models only.

Radiators last about 100 000 km or 7-10 years. Around then they tend to break from the lower section (where the tranny oils are circulated for cooling), which leads to mixing tranny oils with coolant. In worst case scenario, if the tranny is not quickly serviced (= disassembled to pieces and dried out) you may have a gearbox renovation in head of you.

I don't know how common this is around the world, but where I come from, we have four seasons, meaning that radiator is stressed over time at each time of the year. If you're living in a climate where surrounding temperatures remains more or less steady, this problem may not occur so frequently, I don't know.

Just thinking because here these radiator problems are more than common. Just spent 720 Eur (1030 USD) for radiator and hoses and flushing, and another 1100 Eur (1580 USD) for transmission.

So much for the cheap servicing from the global point of view.

Still don't understand why this kind of design has to implemented. Why the ATX's couldn't have their own isolated system? (This shitty engineering can be found from BMW's and Mercedeses' also)

I guess because it's a cheap way of doing things.

Every single car on the road with an auto has that setup from the factory. It is what it is.

Well there you have it. Default engineering.

Is there anyone, that have post-installed own cooler for tranny?

I mean the totally isolated system. They say that totally isolated system is not recommended (why?) Only an extra cooler, which is still connected to the main cooling system.

Thinking to join to the official "gonna drive it until it dies" -club after these repair shop bills...

I don't know why it would not be recommended.

Its not an uncommon thing to do. Its also very easy to do.

Well, that's the thing, why it would'nt be a good idea?

Only thing that I can determine could be that in the winter time the tranny oils cools too much, leading to stiffy oils and therefore inadequate lubricating performance?

But is this true, I can't tell. Seems that the external cooler would be the only solution for saving money in the future, because it is obvious that these radiator blow ups may well occur again (+ tranny issues).

mr_mopar_neon wrote:hummm never really fort about the coolant but a nice srt4 style hood would sort that out

Fort? lol

The intake is hot from the millions of explosions going on 1 1/2" from it. External trans coolers (excluding the B&M supercooler) always cool the fluid, its just as bad for trans fluid to be very cold as it is to be hot. The cooler in the radiator helps keep the fluid at a constant temp in all climates.

For winter use.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRM-1060/?image=large

"Excluding B&M supercooler"

What do you mean by this? That it's the only exception in overcooling, meaning that it doesn't overcool ?

Yes it has a thermostat/bypass