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Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 3:44 am
My car has been having a cranking problem recently. It did it the 4th time tonight, much longer than before. Normally my car starts right up when I turn the key "normally." Well when this problem occurs, the car doesnt turn on and takes a few cranks to fire up. Tonight the car didnt start the first time of holding it like 3 seconds, and then I cranked it again about 5 seconds before it fired up. I don't have any codes, and once I started the car I let it run for a minute, turned it off, and then it started right up again no problem. It doesnt do it everytime, but about 4 times now the last few days. Any ideas?
Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 7:15 am
Try swapping the ASD relay with another one. Mine shut off the other night, (thankfully backing out of my parking space) and would not start at all. No CEL, no codes. (I was cringing hoping that 0340 wouldn't be there)
Anyways, I swapped the ASD with the starter relay and it fired right up. The contacts must have been bad enough to keep the voltage from jumping on the lower ampdraw.
Possibly the conacts are getting bad in yours. Mine would have a slight stutter every blue moon or so, but I could never figure it out. It was almost like I thought I imagined it. Very brief.
Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 8:06 am
Have that battery tested just to be sure. Batteries eventually die regardless of how good the alternator is. My mother's 2 year old IS250 had a bad battery that refused to stay charged even after hooking up an industrial charger.
The ASD usually makes it not start or randomly kill the power. Also, check the connections for the starter, it's a long shot but why not.
Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 8:20 am
If you have a volt gauge in you pillar, check the voltage while cranking. If it is below 9 or so volts, it can affect the PCM/coil. Above 9 the battery/starter are prolly fine. A starter with bad bushings/bearings can draw a good battery's volts too low during cranking.
But you would need a amp meter capable of at least 400 amps to test the starter, and the cranking amps spec. for a neon to check that.
And of course the cables and grounds.
There are some other possibilites, such as how quickly the cam/crank signals are registering with the PCM, but I would start with the basics first.
Posted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 3:56 am
So today I tried to crank it, and it just turned over about 7 continuos seconds, and then fired up. Finally threw a code, P0340. Looks like I'll be headig to the dodge dealer and picking up a new camshaft position sensor.. Hope it dont cost me too much
I'm also going to check the wiring from it just to make sure it's not shorted somewhere. Before I knew what the code was tonight, I took the car to redline a few times and it was fine, and the next 2 startups we're normal also. I'm still going to replace the sensor with a mopar unit. The autozone ones have tons of problems i see
Posted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 7:53 am
OK, so skip the basics, and let the PCM tell you what the trouble is.
Glad it gave you something to work with, instead of banging your head against a wall.
Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 2:32 am
Posted: Sun Jul 05, 2009 6:52 pm
my car does the same only when the ac is on i have not gotten any codes yet and ittl stall bad when im driving with the ac on too when the ac is off the car drives like a champ would anyone know or have any idea what the problem is
Posted: Wed Jul 08, 2009 2:55 pm
Danman. I have had the same kinda things happening. did th CPS replacement fix the problem?
Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 4:50 am
Mine totally went away, hasn't done it since I replaced the sensor.