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Origionaly i posted this on neons.org, but want to broaden the search/response...

Was curious if this has been made yet. Just some shield that helps blow the air under the intake manifold as apposed to directly on to it. Asking this because i went from my nice cool plastic stock one to my beefy, but aluminum, magnum manifold. I notice a HUGE differance in the surface temps direclty after driving despite my CAI.

I was thinking about making one if there isnt one available to purchase (probably out of fiberglass or sheetmetal). If there isnt one out there, would anybody be interested in such a thing (so i would have more reason to make one... make a mold perhaps and just go off that mold?)

i think it's a decent idea. if you are good enough to make a mold, i'd say make one out of carbon fiber... if you are serious about creating a stir. while material costs are a little higher, you can work it just like fiberglass. you don't need to vaccum bag it... just squeegie it out like glass... i'm gonna go take a look at my engine tonight to see the possibilites!

Remember... the engine also gets hot so a lot of the heat comes from the engine itself. Also... last time I checked the radiator fan blows from the inside out, atleast mine does and if you were to put a shrould to block the air while the car was moving you'd block airflow that you not flow over the intake mani either woudl would raise the temp of the engine compartment also raising the temp of the intake mani. To be honest I don't think it's worth the time and probably woudln't do much.

Could this be done with a duct to bring cold air in and across the manifold? Might be able to use both together as underhood temps are going to eventually reach around 180f which would probably heatsoak the manifold after about 30 min of driving anyway.
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Keep in mind the cold air going over the engine as you're driving. Sure the air is also going through the radiator warming it up a bit but for the most it wont' heat it up enough to make the intake mani that hot. Also make note of the room to work with under the hood and between the intake mani and radiator... there isn't a whole lot of room there to be making a duct. Not saying it isn't possible but it just isn't very feasable for results that would probably be very little if any.

Yeah, I went and looked after I posted and there's lots of room to get it to the manifold from under the T/B but no real good place to get the cold air from unless you were to use something like the old air scoop they used to mount under mustang bumpers that looked like #^$#
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What about "Evo" hoods (where the "scoop" is right over the intake) Do these work at all?

Does it really blow from in the motor out front?!? I will have to check that out... but when im driving is where air is obviously going to move from the front, through the radiator, and in the motor, right on the intake.

I looked at it today, and i think i could do it Just mask up the intake manifold and get a base off of that with fiberglass. THen, figure a way to get it molded to the top of the fan. There are 2 bolts that are at the top of the radiator i could use, and 1 bolt on the intake manifold as well.

It can be done! May do some good experimenting to see if its worth it though... cuz im assuming the majority of the heat the intake manifold is soaking up is from the radiator as it blows DIRECTLY on to it. And, as an extreme over clocker (my computer is water cooled ), i have studied how even just a slight breeze at X temperature can either heat or cool something very quickly.

So if the interest is there, ill the get idea going and see if it works!

wouldn't it be easyer to use an srt hood and have it so the air comes in trough the scoope?

The air velocity would push it over the top... wouldnt it? Unless you did some mad modding and ducting

Got a little time this weekend to make something to see if it would be worth while to persue the idea of the intake / radiator heat sheild. I started out with some heavy-duty cardboard. Made kind of a prototype out of it. Driving around several times now with fully warmed car. First thing i noticed was the temp gauge didnt quite get as high (will still do more testing when it warms up today). It always gets up to about the 1/3 (?) mark up right on the line. It is just a hair below it now. When i came to a stop, i popped the hood and quickly felt by hand the temps of the intake manifold...

Before: I noticed that the intake piping in front of the TB was always cold. The throttle body itself seemed cold. The piping after TB and before intake manifold was a little warmer, but not quite warm. The bottom of the mag intake was warm. About 1/2 way up the intake plenum was very warm, and by the injectors was getting near hot. The head, of course, being very hot.

After: Everything from the very bottom of the mag intake all the way to the filter was cold. A little warmth was felt right at the bottom of the plenum. Got slightly warmer as you go up. warm at the most at the top of plenum by injectors! touch the head, OUCH! HOT! Very hot that is.

So far so good gang. I havnt played with power, and will keep you posted with more scientific updates if possible. Ill try to get remote measurements and see what kind of real world temps are being dropped. But a basic carboard version is doing good, cant wait to try a fiberglass one

nodestiny wrote:What about "Evo" hoods (where the "scoop" is right over the intake) Do these work at all?

Does it really blow from in the motor out front?!? I will have to check that out... but when im driving is where air is obviously going to move from the front, through the radiator, and in the motor, right on the intake.

I looked at it today, and i think i could do it Just mask up the intake manifold and get a base off of that with fiberglass. THen, figure a way to get it molded to the top of the fan. There are 2 bolts that are at the top of the radiator i could use, and 1 bolt on the intake manifold as well.

It can be done! May do some good experimenting to see if its worth it though... cuz im assuming the majority of the heat the intake manifold is soaking up is from the radiator as it blows DIRECTLY on to it. And, as an extreme over clocker (my computer is water cooled ), i have studied how even just a slight breeze at X temperature can either heat or cool something very quickly.

So if the interest is there, ill the get idea going and see if it works!

Evo hoods allow te exhaust manifold to expel air, the opening is right above the turbo.

Thanx for the info on the evo hood. I thought the openings were right over around the intake maifold of the neon?

Anywho, even when it was warmer outside, i could notice a differance in temps by hand on the intake manifold. This morning, it was very cold. After 15+ miles of driving (city stuff mainly, so 45-30MPH tops, only pushin to 2200 RPMs tops) even the top of the intake by the injectors felt no more than room temp, where the head... i didnt have to touch to know it was hot .

So, i will be making one out of fiberglass ASAP!!!

nodestiny wrote:Thanx for the info on the evo hood. I thought the openings were right over around the intake maifold of the neon?

Anywho, even when it was warmer outside, i could notice a differance in temps by hand on the intake manifold. This morning, it was very cold. After 15+ miles of driving (city stuff mainly, so 45-30MPH tops, only pushin to 2200 RPMs tops) even the top of the intake by the injectors felt no more than room temp, where the head... i didnt have to touch to know it was hot .

So, i will be making one out of fiberglass ASAP!!!

oh on a Neon the "Evo" style hoods opening would be right over the intake mani, I was rambling on about the real Evolution's hood. my mistake.

linkinevo wrote:

nodestiny wrote:Thanx for the info on the evo hood. I thought the openings were right over around the intake maifold of the neon?

Anywho, even when it was warmer outside, i could notice a differance in temps by hand on the intake manifold. This morning, it was very cold. After 15+ miles of driving (city stuff mainly, so 45-30MPH tops, only pushin to 2200 RPMs tops) even the top of the intake by the injectors felt no more than room temp, where the head... i didnt have to touch to know it was hot .

So, i will be making one out of fiberglass ASAP!!!

oh on a Neon the "Evo" style hoods opening would be right over the intake mani, I was rambling on about the real Evolution's hood. my mistake.

Hehehe, its OK. Guess i should have been more specific?

not to be an ass but why struggling so hard to make the intanke 6 degrees colder (it doesnt mean the AIR will be 6 colder).

spend those 200 bucks in a mpx udp and you will be faster than shielding the intanky with anything you can come up with

Baal wrote:not to be an ass but why struggling so hard to make the intanke 6 degrees colder (it doesnt mean the AIR will be 6 colder).

spend those 200 bucks in a mpx udp and you will be faster than shielding the intanky with anything you can come up with

Have you ever felt how hot the air is when the fan kicks in when idling?

What intruiged me with this thought is I used to be a big time overclocker. I have a watercooled setup cooling my video card and processor, and spent MANY years working with differant setups to find a great mixture of cool, quiet, and value...

Remember: Moving air conducts heat very well. Especialy when moving over 200CFM. The energy being wasted is put into heat, which is taken away by moving water. That heat is put through the radiator, then blown right back on the motor and primarily the intake system. So, wasted energy is put on your intake, which is aluminum. Aluminum is a good conductor of heat. If you are pulling till redline through a track, and you pulll over ASAP and check the temps, the amount of air moving through the mag intake SHOULD put the intake to near ambient temps since the amount of flow would have come through and cooled the intake. BUT since at the same rate, you have air blowing through the radiator, it will be much warmer. Warm air, obviously, is an enemy and why we use CAI instead of short ram intakes.

The air temps im sure will cool more than 6*. EVEN IF its only 6*, thats nearly 1 HP gain. Then, figure if its 10*, thats 1.5 HP... ill predict easily 15-20*, which is 3HP. 3HP for around a $20 and a bit of elbow grease? Why not!

And the reason im sure it works: As i mentioned earlier, the intake is aluminum which conducts well. With the radiator blowing hot air on it, i could feel the bottom portion of the intake manifold, under normal driving and these cooler fall days... The bottom portion was warm. Even the piping between the TB and manifold was warm. The bottom portion of the plenum was pretty warn, and by the top of the plenum, was nearly considered hot.

With the cardboard prototype, the intake manifold is cool to the touch on the bottom and the TB to IM piping. The bottom of the plenum was a little warmer, but still cool. The top of the plenum is warm, but not hot. That is the heat being transfered from the head and would take a lot of work to rid of (which wouldnt be worth it from there).

So it may not seem like it would heat up very much, but i will get some temp readings ASAP and let you know!

Since i have put on the prototype sheild, i have not punched it at all as im trying to see if my millage is doing ok (havnt checked since i put on moddified mag intake, 60mm TB and some other changes here and there!). Im guessing the butt dyno wont really feel it.

This may be a complete waste of time, but in theory, it will make a differance. Even if its small... figure this: people who are true racers have no problem ditching things as small as .01 lbs to reduce weight. Also, house insulation is a good example as well... EVERY little bit counts

Yes i know im a weight freak, it pisses me off unnecesary extra weight.

Anyway, let say you lower the temp to 15-20 degrees like you said, that is at the intake surface, not the air coming in the combustion chamber.

BTW wouldnt it be easier to wrap the intake in those isolators that turbo guys use in their exhausts manifolds?

Easier? Maybe... but that fiberglass insulation is easily $20-50 and looks like ass! Plus, you still have that heat being blown directly onto the motor. Though, i do plan to coat my entire intake manifold with a fine rubber compound (did a post on doing the tubing, worked out very well). Rubber will help isolate it as well... and help keep the under hood temps from heating up the aluminum piping and manifold as well.

If it lowers the intake surface 15-20*, it is gauranteed to lower incoming air temps. Once again, aluminum being a good conductor of heat... and a high flow of air comming through it will effect the temps of the intake itself. So if the outside of the intake is warm or hot, the cold air will be absorbing some of that up. If it were a metal of lower heat conduction, such as stainless steel, it wouldnt be effected nearly as bad. But hey, could be worse... could be copper!

Much like you are a weight freak, i am a temp freak. Every few degrees extra where it causes inefficiency in any way will get my gears working in my head on how to be more efficient with it. Such as in this case. Once again, might not make a huge differance, or any differance... but i know for a fact that it will lower intake temps by some small amount, and overall under the hood temps as well.

Lol yeah i guess thats the problem, im a weight freak and you are a temp freak...

Honestly all i can think is about it, is the extra weight of the heat shield, hahaha


BTW not many 2nd gens owners have magnum aluminium intakes

nodestiny wrote:Easier? Maybe... but that fiberglass insulation is easily $20-50 and looks like ass! Plus, you still have that heat being blown directly onto the motor. Though, i do plan to coat my entire intake manifold with a fine rubber compound (did a post on doing the tubing, worked out very well). Rubber will help isolate it as well... and help keep the under hood temps from heating up the aluminum piping and manifold as well.

If it lowers the intake surface 15-20*, it is gauranteed to lower incoming air temps. Once again, aluminum being a good conductor of heat... and a high flow of air comming through it will effect the temps of the intake itself. So if the outside of the intake is warm or hot, the cold air will be absorbing some of that up. If it were a metal of lower heat conduction, such as stainless steel, it wouldnt be effected nearly as bad. But hey, could be worse... could be copper!

Much like you are a weight freak, i am a temp freak. Every few degrees extra where it causes inefficiency in any way will get my gears working in my head on how to be more efficient with it. Such as in this case. Once again, might not make a huge differance, or any differance... but i know for a fact that it will lower intake temps by some small amount, and overall under the hood temps as well.

Go to Sears and get a digital laser thermometer. should help out nicely.

linkinevo wrote: Go to Sears and get a digital laser thermometer. should help out nicely.

Thought about that, but i want real time while driving temps... im going to do a thermal probe on several places on the intake system and check it out That way, i can say "temp outside is XX, shield on going XX miles per hour for XX minutes, then the temp is XX" something like that