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is there any way of puttin dics brakes on a non r/t neon with out using the r/t parts?

yea, get ABS.

just get the rear disks parts (calipers, disks, hand brake cable) and install.. pretty simple.

so the drum brakes will just come off n all i have to do is in stalle the rotors n stuff

speedyrb29 wrote:so the drum brakes will just come off n all i have to do is in stalle the rotors n stuff

hub too i think.

speedyrb29 wrote:so the drum brakes will just come off n all i have to do is in stalle the rotors n stuff

that'd be nice... you have to take off the knuckles and replace them with knuckles from a disk model and attatch the corresponding hand break cables.... they now attatch to 2 little ebrake pads which press inside the center area of your rear disks to stop the car, rather than leave the pad againt the drum like your current setup. in the end its a great mod coz you can get some good race pads and disks and then you'll really be stopping, but it trully is a lot of work if you ask me.

A lot of work WTF?!?!

you take the knuckle off... thats like what... 5 minutes?

You install the knuckle again bla bla bla... i say its a 2 hour job Max.

I've got SRT-4 rear discs on my 2002 base. Install was a pain in the ass for sure. It's more complicated than "unbolt the drums and bolt on the discs." Routing the E-brake cables was the biggest bitch of the whole thing. The stock cables did NOT want to come out. It took me a few hours, but I did the swap myself.

In the end, the car looks better, stops better, and I don't regret the hassle one bit.

Baal wrote:A lot of work WTF?!?!

you take the knuckle off... thats like what... 5 minutes?

You install the knuckle again bla bla bla... i say its a 2 hour job Max.

buddy please, do this for yourself and then talk...do you even know about having to swap out part of the break lines for example sure, i did this on my 96 which was old and rusty on the suspension sideso that may have slowed me down, but my car was already stripped so that made that ebrake cable swap A LOT easier.... have fun ripping the carpet out of your car and then actually pulling the cables out

rice_eater wrote:

Baal wrote:A lot of work WTF?!?!

you take the knuckle off... thats like what... 5 minutes?

You install the knuckle again bla bla bla... i say its a 2 hour job Max.

buddy please, do this for yourself and then talk...do you even know about having to swap out part of the break lines for example sure, i did this on my 96 which was old and rusty on the suspension sideso that may have slowed me down, but my car was already stripped so that made that ebrake cable swap A LOT easier.... have fun ripping the carpet out of your car and then actually pulling the cables out

Well i dont have interiors and i also have good tools

Baal wrote:

rice_eater wrote:

Baal wrote:A lot of work WTF?!?!

you take the knuckle off... thats like what... 5 minutes?

You install the knuckle again bla bla bla... i say its a 2 hour job Max.

buddy please, do this for yourself and then talk...do you even know about having to swap out part of the break lines for example sure, i did this on my 96 which was old and rusty on the suspension sideso that may have slowed me down, but my car was already stripped so that made that ebrake cable swap A LOT easier.... have fun ripping the carpet out of your car and then actually pulling the cables out

Well i dont have interiors and i also have good tools

all you need now is a manual

yep, i dont see why all the "its too much work" complains.

Try dropping the damn tranny, and most important, lift it back to its place now thats a lot of work.

I agree with baal. If you are a semi decent mechanic then it shouldn't be that big of a deal. I'm not saying anyone on here isn't a decent mechanic so don't go flamin. As far as the e brake cables I got mine out in 5 minutes and that includes pulling up the back seat base and peeling the carpet back. They clamp into the center console area. Use a hose clamp tightened down on the spring clamp on the lines, it will squeeze the line down and allow you to remove it relatively easy. where they come into the cabin just has two rubber boots, if you push the line out of the car while using a screwdriver to push on the boot it should come out with no problems.

As far as the brakes themselves, the only part that i hated was unhooking all of the suspension components from the hub/knuckle. It wasn't difficult, just annoying.

Actually, you dont NEED the knuckles at all, I just installed an SRT4 rear brake setup on my sxt about a month ago, when I got the srt parts, one of the spindles was bent......no good, so I just unbolted the whole drum backing plate (after removing the hub.....VERY EASY), then reinstalled the disc backing plate, then hub, slapped on the rotors and calipers and boom, I was done. From jacking up the car, all the way to shutting down after a test drive.....took no more than 2-1/2 hours. Don't let ANYONE disway you, this is a VERY simple procedure. If you have access to air tools (like me), and you have two good disk spindles, this should take very little time. The E-brake cales are cake when you just remove the lower back seat, and pull back the carpet, instead of using the hose clamp to remove the E-brake cables, use a 1/2" box-end 12 sided wrench, just slide it over the clips and it slides right out!.......

And by the way, stopping is actually worse with the disks, but you get: ease of pad changes, reduced chance of lockup (due to slightly less braking surface), lighter rear end (slightly), never having to worry about adjusting (discs are self adjusting), and better looks.

Braking is all about surface area, the drums have more contacting surface area than the disks, therefore the drums are better for performance when it comes to a DIRECT swap......


If anyone needs help, or just direction I would be more than happy to help, and if you are in the area (Central California), or willing to drive, I will get my hands dirty for you as well.

By the way, I ONLY did this swap for looks and ease of pad changes.

disagree, brakes are about feeling.

it would be very easy to make a 2 disk contact area (like a clutch).

If you can lock your brakes in theory you cant improve braking (except for weight and tires)

What you really improve is "feeling", its easier to approach to the point before the brakes lock the wheel.

lambostealth wrote: lighter rear end (slightly)

you wish, rotors are way heavier

Yeah, by about ten pounds each. I weighed my drums and my disks during the swap.

Hello ,

Newbie here with some questions.

Does anyone know if the master cylinder is needed when swapping SRT rear brakes onto an SXT? I would assume that since the SXT master operates small wheel cylinders, and SRT rear caliper pistons have a lot more area, the SRT master would have a larger bore or some way to send more fluid volume to the calipers.

Does anyone who did this swap use the original drum brake master, and if so do you now get more pedal travel?

Braking is all about surface area, the drums have more contacting surface area than the disks, therefore the drums are better for performance when it comes to a DIRECT swap......

Actually discs are superior to drums. For a given brake size discs have more friction surface, the only downside I see is the extra weight.

G.

^^^not only that, but you can get way better brake compounds in performance pads than you get from those crappy drums. so even if you do break better initially with the rear drums, after hitting the breaks real hard a couple times the drums have turned to mush that's if you plan on doing roadcorse racing or hard hard street driving. otherwise, if you just want this setup for quick short breaks like for autocross, i've actually heard lots of people who switched back to rear drums to save weight, because there you dont really use your breaks THAT much. i used to think that that was a good idea too till in the last week of a season an rsx with a big break kit completely changed my view on this. the guy would floor it like a madman all the way up to the corner then slam the breaks. the fucker was stoping like he hit a brick wall. i'd say go for the disks if you have a chance

While the discs do indeed offer more performance upgrades, please remeber that braking performance is made up of only about 40% brake parts. Better tires>better brakes.

linkinevo wrote:While the discs do indeed offer more performance upgrades, please remeber that braking performance is made up of only about 40% brake parts. Better tires>better brakes.

you can be sure the guy also had good tires. but i had good tires on too so i somehow managed to consistently get in the top 5 times every time at our local track so needless to say i was pretty happy with the hp+ pads on sloted rotors and stock breaks in the back; they would bite very hard all through the lap and i eventually got the tire pressures just right so the tires wouldnt lock so i was even happier but this guy was able to stop so quick there is no way in hell my car will do that... maybe if it lost like 500 pounds i actually find it usefull to hit the breaks and get all that oversteer from the weight when i hit tight corners but at high speed its pretty scary

Agreed anyone who is happy with his rear drums isnt really using his brakes.

I am really trying to find some rear disk brakes, im freaking sick of the rear brake fade, its AWFUL!