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occasional demons wrote:

BlackRoseRacing wrote:On the 2.0 it is not recommended to run head studs
The 2.4 is ok, but not the 2.0......
As per Ed Peter's (Chrysler Engineer)

easy fix just throw a 2.4 in

how far you decking the head frank before it goes back on?

fusion210 wrote:I'm not sure if they improved the casting flash on the block by the water pump, but on my 1998 neon it was not only obvious...

Holy Crap! Mine had no flash at all, they saved that for my exhaust ports instead.

Adam G wrote:how far you decking the head frank before it goes back on?

Wait, your removing the head?

while it is off, and.

If you are brave, you could do the temp sender mod.
















Not something I would recommend with the head on, and everything installed. Because if you phuck it up, you have a long day ahead.

Nope, not removing the head.

Didn't think you would.

occasional demons wrote:The bolts are torque to yield. They are stretched to clamp the head down. So there is room to give. The studs do not stretch like the bolts. They would either snap, or pull the threads out.

Same theory applies to studs as well, you stretch them to provide a consistent clamping force.

Only "mods of conviniece" I would do in addition to the normal maint is the cam and crank pulley if you want to. Everything else is easy enough to do at any time.

I wouldn't be too inclined to clip water pump fins on a daily driver/commuter. On a more track dedicated car, definately, but on something more daily use you may suffer heating issues at idle on hot days.

I've posted this before but the issue with studs on a 2.0 block is there is not enough threads in the deck of the block to properly use the studs. And the story is when you torque down the studs the threads in the block will pull out.