brake light coming on 1st gear
brake light coming on 1st gear
i know this was brought up b4...i even tried the quick search to find it...couldn't find it....
here's the thing.....ebrake is down the whole way...i have a sxt...so no traction control....i can drive hours normally....but if i tear off in first wot around 4k-5k all the way to red line the brake light comes on.....it's even blinked once in second when i spun it from first.....here's the weird thing...my dad has an 01 pt cruiser and his car does the same thing and it started right after he hit 50k miles.....i just spun 50k miles about 2 weeks ago...and now mines doin it
any idea's why it is doin it? i def dont' feel a power loss as if the "brakes" were actually ingaged...
Thanks for any input
here's the thing.....ebrake is down the whole way...i have a sxt...so no traction control....i can drive hours normally....but if i tear off in first wot around 4k-5k all the way to red line the brake light comes on.....it's even blinked once in second when i spun it from first.....here's the weird thing...my dad has an 01 pt cruiser and his car does the same thing and it started right after he hit 50k miles.....i just spun 50k miles about 2 weeks ago...and now mines doin it
any idea's why it is doin it? i def dont' feel a power loss as if the "brakes" were actually ingaged...
Thanks for any input
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A little light reading material for everyone fighting this condition.
RopeRat1
MWN Member
Joined: 11 Jan 2005
Posts: 172
Location: Verona KY
Posted: Tue Jan 11, 2005 6:47 pm Post subject: BRAKE lamp Operation
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Hi, XoticNeon
Brake fluid level in the master cylinder is low (most likely due to brake pad wear).
Check for brake pad/lining wear, check for possible leaks, and refill the master cylinder with FRESH (DOT 3) brake fluid. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air once the bottle is opened.
The BRAKE lamp serves two purposes.
1. Park brake is set.
2. Brake fluid level in the master cylinder is LOW. This meets the federal requirement to warn the driver of loss of braking power.
(This is explained in the owner's manual)
NOTE to all fighting this condition:
Neon and other Chrysler group FWDs use the Teves braking system, including anti-lock.
The master cylinder has a float with a magnet attached to the bottom inside the plastic reservoir.
The two-wire connector on the driver's side of the reservoir attaches to a reed switch under the reservoir. One wire goes goes ground and the other splices into the park brake switch wire so that either switch can turn on the lamp.
When the fluid level drops, the magnet pulls the switch closed and this turns on the BRAKE lamp.
The fluid level in the master cylinder is almost to the critical level that would turn on the lamp. G-force from acceleration/deceleration and cornering is moving the float up and down, thus causing the lamp to flash when you accelerate. This condition is not explained in any of the service manuals.
Reed switch ops is explained in Section 5 of the factory service manual and the wiring diagram for it and the park brake switch is in Section 8W-30 of the manual. Refer to the appropriate sections in the aftermarket manuals.
Hope this helps everyone.
Jonathan (RopeRat1)
RopeRat1
MWN Member
Joined: 11 Jan 2005
Posts: 172
Location: Verona KY
Posted: Tue Jan 11, 2005 6:47 pm Post subject: BRAKE lamp Operation
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi, XoticNeon
Brake fluid level in the master cylinder is low (most likely due to brake pad wear).
Check for brake pad/lining wear, check for possible leaks, and refill the master cylinder with FRESH (DOT 3) brake fluid. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air once the bottle is opened.
The BRAKE lamp serves two purposes.
1. Park brake is set.
2. Brake fluid level in the master cylinder is LOW. This meets the federal requirement to warn the driver of loss of braking power.
(This is explained in the owner's manual)
NOTE to all fighting this condition:
Neon and other Chrysler group FWDs use the Teves braking system, including anti-lock.
The master cylinder has a float with a magnet attached to the bottom inside the plastic reservoir.
The two-wire connector on the driver's side of the reservoir attaches to a reed switch under the reservoir. One wire goes goes ground and the other splices into the park brake switch wire so that either switch can turn on the lamp.
When the fluid level drops, the magnet pulls the switch closed and this turns on the BRAKE lamp.
The fluid level in the master cylinder is almost to the critical level that would turn on the lamp. G-force from acceleration/deceleration and cornering is moving the float up and down, thus causing the lamp to flash when you accelerate. This condition is not explained in any of the service manuals.
Reed switch ops is explained in Section 5 of the factory service manual and the wiring diagram for it and the park brake switch is in Section 8W-30 of the manual. Refer to the appropriate sections in the aftermarket manuals.
Hope this helps everyone.
Jonathan (RopeRat1)
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Hydraulic pressure from the master cylinder forces the piston out against the brake pad to stop the car. A square-cut piston seal twists as the piston if pushed outward. When the brake pedal is released, the seal relaxes and pulls the piston back from the pad.
The relaxing seal causes the piston to ease back slightly and the brake pads maintain a set few thousandths of an inch between the pad surface and the rotor during normal operation.
Normal pad wear causes the piston to move outward thru the seal in the caliper to maintain contact with the pad and fluid from the master cylinder fills in the increased space inside the caliper. This causes a normal fluid level drop as the pads wear.
Jonathan (RopeRat1)
The relaxing seal causes the piston to ease back slightly and the brake pads maintain a set few thousandths of an inch between the pad surface and the rotor during normal operation.
Normal pad wear causes the piston to move outward thru the seal in the caliper to maintain contact with the pad and fluid from the master cylinder fills in the increased space inside the caliper. This causes a normal fluid level drop as the pads wear.
Jonathan (RopeRat1)
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- wickedneonrt
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actually you may want to check your brakes. brake fluid normally wont disappear. if you arent leaking ( which you'd have a low pedal and know) then it means the fluid is down and your calipers and they are pushed out quite far, i.e. low brake pads. the lower your pads get the fluid stays in the calipers to an extent to stay close to the brake pad. IF you add fluid when you do the brake job and push the pistons in the calipers back you could shoot the excess fluid out of the resevoir so be careful and cover that area when you do your brakes.
pcm's do more in ten minutes then most people do all day