List is $162.00 for the 95-99 DOHC muffler.
occasional demons wrote: Spark Plug Tube Theads
About to buy 2000 neon
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occasional demons
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The DOHC muffler is supposed to flow better, but finding a reasonably decent used one may be a bit tough.
List is $162.00 for the 95-99 DOHC muffler.
List is $162.00 for the 95-99 DOHC muffler.
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
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occasional demons
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It will work, but IDK how much of a direct fit it is. I have not seen a 1gn muffler installed on a 2gn in person, so I can't give you any promises there. Jerry (INVU) might have a bit more insight. It might be a touch louder than the regular neon muffler. The 2gn R/T muffler is a bit louder than the DOHC muffler.
The 1gn DOHC engine was used in a variety of trim levels, not just the R/T, so that's my guess why the sound level is a bit on the quiet side.
The 1gn DOHC engine was used in a variety of trim levels, not just the R/T, so that's my guess why the sound level is a bit on the quiet side.
DOHC in an '02 is not factory, so that means nothing as far as the 1gn muffler. I'll assume the cluster is from a 2gn car. The brake light will stay lit if it is from an R/T (140 mph) or an SRT-4 (160 mph). If it is a 120 mph cluster, the brake light shouldn't be an issue.His is a dohc 02.
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
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supertrick_05
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2000-2005 did NOT have a DOHC option until the SRT-4 came out and only came in the SRT. They have the 2.4 DOHC. The 95-99 cars had a 2.0 DOHC option. If you buy the said muffler from the 2nd gen, it's going to be the exact same muffler that is already on your car. Even the '01-04 R/T mufflers don't flow much better if at all...they just have 2 exhaust outlets instead of one.
Save your money and buy a long glasspack and run it in the mid tunnel right after the cat converter, then have a muffler shop custom-bend an axle-back pipe. Or you can always get the SRT axle-back pipe with dual tips, but they will melt your bumper if you don't modify the pipe to hang lower.
EDIT: If you are worried about the exhaust being too loud with a glasspack, look for one that is louvered on the inside like this:
I went from a cheap Thrush glasspack to one of the louvered ones and the difference was pretty significant, but I still retained the great sound these engines put out. Just make sure the openings of the louvers (like pictured above) face the front of the car so they catch the exhaust and force it into the baffle material to quiet the exhaust. Here's what my car sounded like on the dyno (a lot of the sound on WOT is the intake, but gives you an idea). Click on the picture below:
Save your money and buy a long glasspack and run it in the mid tunnel right after the cat converter, then have a muffler shop custom-bend an axle-back pipe. Or you can always get the SRT axle-back pipe with dual tips, but they will melt your bumper if you don't modify the pipe to hang lower.
EDIT: If you are worried about the exhaust being too loud with a glasspack, look for one that is louvered on the inside like this:
I went from a cheap Thrush glasspack to one of the louvered ones and the difference was pretty significant, but I still retained the great sound these engines put out. Just make sure the openings of the louvers (like pictured above) face the front of the car so they catch the exhaust and force it into the baffle material to quiet the exhaust. Here's what my car sounded like on the dyno (a lot of the sound on WOT is the intake, but gives you an idea). Click on the picture below:
-Brodie
2002 Dodge Neon ACR - Needs LOTS of love, but I'm gonna slowly get her to where she deserves to be
2002 Dodge Neon ACR - Needs LOTS of love, but I'm gonna slowly get her to where she deserves to be
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occasional demons
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In that case, you better stick with the original muffler. It actually flows well for what it is. It isn't as bad as everyone likes to say it is.
Until you go with a larger cam, TB, etc. the standard muffler will flow well enough for what the engine is throwing at it. The valve lift/duration is so conservative in stock form, you can get away with a fair amount on the stock system.
If you want to upgrade, get a 2002 and up exhaust, from the manifold back. The '00 and some '01's have 2" pipes, the newer ones are 2.25", but they all neck to 2" at the muffler connection. Even the SRT. The only one that is a consistent 2.25" is the R/T pipe.
And pointing those louvers at the exhaust flow will only hurt flow. The sound waves are not controlled by the air flow. A perforated tube will work as well as a louvered tube, and flow better.
The sound waves can actually flow backwards against air flow. It is called reversion. Reversion can actually slow air flow. The sound pressure waves push back against the air. Stand in front of a huge subwoofer. You will get the point.
Until you go with a larger cam, TB, etc. the standard muffler will flow well enough for what the engine is throwing at it. The valve lift/duration is so conservative in stock form, you can get away with a fair amount on the stock system.
If you want to upgrade, get a 2002 and up exhaust, from the manifold back. The '00 and some '01's have 2" pipes, the newer ones are 2.25", but they all neck to 2" at the muffler connection. Even the SRT. The only one that is a consistent 2.25" is the R/T pipe.
And pointing those louvers at the exhaust flow will only hurt flow. The sound waves are not controlled by the air flow. A perforated tube will work as well as a louvered tube, and flow better.
The sound waves can actually flow backwards against air flow. It is called reversion. Reversion can actually slow air flow. The sound pressure waves push back against the air. Stand in front of a huge subwoofer. You will get the point.
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Whats a good order of beginning upgrades?
Im starting with a CAI as my air box is forever sealed shut.
Giving myself 3 out of 10 on engineering could I accomplish a DIY CAI? Is it as good as those $200 ones?
Whats next after that?
Im also still on track for the tensioner and waterpump being done before 90k
Im starting with a CAI as my air box is forever sealed shut.
Giving myself 3 out of 10 on engineering could I accomplish a DIY CAI? Is it as good as those $200 ones?
Whats next after that?
Im also still on track for the tensioner and waterpump being done before 90k
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occasional demons
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- Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 12:14 pm
- Location: Ashland Ohio
For what an Ebay one cost, you are going to be hard pressed to do it yourself cheaper. Other than the satisfaction of doing it yourself, it isn't worth the effort.
The high dollar ones, are more based on that thing called reversion I talked about. The true name of them is more along the flavor of a "Tuned Air Intake" The idea is to get specific lengths etc, to reduce the sound waves coming from the intake valves shutting, and the air flow abruptly stopping. That resonance comes back out the IM. By reducing the sound waves pushing out, allows more air to enter. "Cold Air Intake" was just a better marketing name. The high dollar units are also CARB exempt.
Getting something certified that it does not impact emissions is very expensive. Thus why they cost so much. It prolly take a few years, or more to recoup the costs depending on how many units they sell. Each design has to be certified. If you have emissions inspections, a homemade/ebay CAI will not pass, depending if they open the hood for a visual or not.
Improving the suspension would be the next mod. Replacing the old rubber bushings for urethane, going to larger sway bars, and maybe lowering it a bit will help. Keeping the car more stable will improve braking distance in itself.
Putting fresh/filled motor mounts and torque struts will help throttle response, in that the torque will get to the wheels sooner, instead of moving the engine/trans assembly first.
Once the car is able to grip the pavement better, and power is not being lost to worn mounts, then start thinking about engine upgrades.
The high dollar ones, are more based on that thing called reversion I talked about. The true name of them is more along the flavor of a "Tuned Air Intake" The idea is to get specific lengths etc, to reduce the sound waves coming from the intake valves shutting, and the air flow abruptly stopping. That resonance comes back out the IM. By reducing the sound waves pushing out, allows more air to enter. "Cold Air Intake" was just a better marketing name. The high dollar units are also CARB exempt.
Getting something certified that it does not impact emissions is very expensive. Thus why they cost so much. It prolly take a few years, or more to recoup the costs depending on how many units they sell. Each design has to be certified. If you have emissions inspections, a homemade/ebay CAI will not pass, depending if they open the hood for a visual or not.
Improving the suspension would be the next mod. Replacing the old rubber bushings for urethane, going to larger sway bars, and maybe lowering it a bit will help. Keeping the car more stable will improve braking distance in itself.
Putting fresh/filled motor mounts and torque struts will help throttle response, in that the torque will get to the wheels sooner, instead of moving the engine/trans assembly first.
Once the car is able to grip the pavement better, and power is not being lost to worn mounts, then start thinking about engine upgrades.
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Ok I have zero emissions to worry about. I think I will order an ebay cai and put a better filter on it. Thank you for the information.
I will start looking into the suspension/mounts
Thankfully I have a very experiened mechanic doing $20 an hour labor for me and im going to start getting estimates on everything labor intensive, probally the water pump, tensioner, timing belt and then the recommened suspenion and mount upgrades . I can put on an intake but not all that suspension and mount stuff. Anything I left out to get an estimate from him for?
I will start looking into the suspension/mounts
Thankfully I have a very experiened mechanic doing $20 an hour labor for me and im going to start getting estimates on everything labor intensive, probally the water pump, tensioner, timing belt and then the recommened suspenion and mount upgrades . I can put on an intake but not all that suspension and mount stuff. Anything I left out to get an estimate from him for?