crank sensor seeping oil

frankiearnone83 · Post by **frankiearnone83** » Thu Dec 04, 2014 1:18 pm

I have a 2002 2.0 non high output and my crank sensor seeping oil. Do u think I could pull the sensor clean the block and put black rtv around the base and bolt it back in. Let it cure. Anyone try this yet?? That sensor is to expensive.

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Dec 04, 2014 2:07 pm

It depends if it is leaking by the o-ring, or internally through the connector. I believe you can buy the o-ring separately from the dealer.

The thing is, if it won't pull out easily, you may break it attempting to remove it. They sometimes swell, and won't come out. I had to remove the oil pan on our '96, and use a large screw driver to wedge it between the crank throw and sensor to get it to come out of the block. It can out with such force it went halfway across the parking lot.

So, if it does not seem to want to come out, even it it will twist back and forth, you are best to leave it alone until you can get a new one, or a known good used one.

frankiearnone83 · Post by **frankiearnone83** » Fri Dec 05, 2014 12:44 am

I'm replacing the oil pan gasket. It's leaking/seeping. I don't think the crank sensor would seep externally if it was n there tight. But we'll see

frankiearnone83 · Post by **frankiearnone83** » Wed Dec 10, 2014 3:22 am

So I got the sensor out. I twisted it as I pulled. It came out without to much struggle. It was leaking internally because the sensor plug and connector was wet with oil. Replaced it with a $10 ebay sensor that came with a 90 day warranty. Matched up both sensors side by side. The new sensors o ring was a little higher up the sensors shaft or farther from the base then the oe sensor. I put little black versa chem rtv silicone around the base and twisted it in while pushing in. It was pretty tight. It felt like it wasn't sitting flush with the block like a mm away. I put a little red lock tight on the 8mm bolt and torque it to 6.7 foot lbs. It was pretty flush then I think. I let/ letting it cure 24 hours. I'll find out tomorrow how it holds up.

This is my 4th dodge neon oil pan gasket replacement and my 1st crank sensor replacement.

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Dec 10, 2014 7:23 pm

frankiearnone83 wrote: I put a little red lock tight on the 8mm bolt

No need for red lock tite. IIRC, it is an M6x1.00 screw. Hopefully you will be able to get it out the next time you need to change it.

Even blue loctite is overkill for the bolt. Maybe if it was a 2.4 with the balance shafts removed...

frankiearnone83 · Post by **frankiearnone83** » Thu Dec 11, 2014 5:00 am

There was red locktight on tbat bolt when I took it out. Just a tiny bit. I burnt it off and wire brushed the threads.

As an update I didn't tighten my drain plug all the way it dripped a tiny bit so I toirqie. It to 23 foot lbs I.stead of 20. I know the pan is aluminum so I was carefull.

Then I ended up putting in about a quarter cup of oil tpo much back in the.crankcase. so I drains alittle. Its now.right.at rhe.top. crosshatch line when warm maby a tad over. 2 of the back.oil pan bolts the one above the.oil pan to transmission brace and the ome next.to it rigjt under the.oil pressure sensor, they.looked alittle wet. I didn't see oil drips on them. They jist looked wet on tje washers of.them 2 bolts.

I did not clean tne old oil off the.back of.the.block before. Or.after the.oil pan.gasket.replacement. so maby that's all that is. I.did spray them bolts down witb soapy water when I arivex 15 milez to work.

I let all the.rtv cure for 48hrs in 40 degrees weather and 30 at night. It raind rhe morning. Before I did the.rtv. rtv cires from moisture in the air. J did have a heater blowing on the pan for one out after.I was done. To help skin the rtv over
I cleaned the.block and pan 100 percent clean witn. Green Scotch bright medium. Corse 400 and 600 grit.sandpaper. then. Follows up witb break cleaner and clean lint free towls. Waited 5 mins and added rtv versa.cnem mega black to tje pan sorrounding all bolt holes then smerring. It alround the oil pan sirface.then set the fel pro blue oil pan gasket on top and firmly set it in place.

Then I ran a 1/8th bead of rtv on both parting line of rhe oil pump to block. Then around the hole block a lite skimming of rtv. Bolted up rhe pan in a criss cross patern starting from the midle outward to 9 foot lbs.

Now tell me there's no way I could have.a leak. The pan and block where.100 percent flush and true.

MichNeon · Post by **MichNeon** » Sat Dec 13, 2014 9:12 pm

If the drain plug leaks with normal torquing, then it is time to replace it. The crank sensor bolt does'nt really need to be loctited, proper torque will take care of it. But, if you really want to use loctite, use the blue stuff, it is rated for light duty, the red is for high strength stuff, like bearings and studs. Before installing the sensor, put a new o-ring on it.

2GN.ORG

crank sensor seeping oil

crank sensor seeping oil

oh

update

Re: update

well