Engine Starts But Wont Run!
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Engine Starts But Wont Run!
Hello, recently when we experienced a cold snap here my car would not run. It starts up, runs fine for 1-3 seconds and shuts off. I've tried giving it gas and it still shuts off. The Coolant Temperature Sensor light begins to flash when it does this. There is coolant in the reservoir and radiator, but the coolant was low before the cold snap(since topped off). I also have a new battery in the car.
My CTS does not seem as accessible as some other people who have made videos on youtube.
The bolt is hidden behind a bracket that is attached to the engine block.
These two hoses are extra thick and physically attached to this bracket. Removing the bracket is also extremely difficult.
What I assume to be evidence of an oil leak.
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My CTS does not seem as accessible as some other people who have made videos on youtube.
The bolt is hidden behind a bracket that is attached to the engine block.
These two hoses are extra thick and physically attached to this bracket. Removing the bracket is also extremely difficult.
What I assume to be evidence of an oil leak.
[/img]
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My first thought is a sticking IAC however I am not sure if that would make the coolant light flash. Looking at the link below may help you diagnose it better though or at least give you something to read before someone else chimes in.
viewtopic.php?t=67323&sid=9639a0610fa3d ... 629881bc83
viewtopic.php?t=67323&sid=9639a0610fa3d ... 629881bc83
It could be your Coolant Temperature Sensor going bad, that is causing this issue. In fact, the 'symptoms' you describe, sound like a CTS problem.
If the PCM cannot get a reading from the CTS, it will 'assume' the engine is at full warm-up, and hot enough to kick the cooling fans 'on'.
This will affect fuel trims as well, which is why the engine won't run... Because it will run the engine too lean for a cold-start.
If this is the case, you should notice that the Radiator Fans are kicking on immediately.... Even when the engine is still 'cold'.
Consider changing the CTS, or inspecting the wiring to the CTS.
- Nick
If the PCM cannot get a reading from the CTS, it will 'assume' the engine is at full warm-up, and hot enough to kick the cooling fans 'on'.
This will affect fuel trims as well, which is why the engine won't run... Because it will run the engine too lean for a cold-start.
If this is the case, you should notice that the Radiator Fans are kicking on immediately.... Even when the engine is still 'cold'.
Consider changing the CTS, or inspecting the wiring to the CTS.
- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
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Thanks for this! Hopefully changing this fixes t.NickKo wrote:It could be your Coolant Temperature Sensor going bad, that is causing this issue. In fact, the 'symptoms' you describe, sound like a CTS problem.
If the PCM cannot get a reading from the CTS, it will 'assume' the engine is at full warm-up, and hot enough to kick the cooling fans 'on'.
This will affect fuel trims as well, which is why the engine won't run... Because it will run the engine too lean for a cold-start.
If this is the case, you should notice that the Radiator Fans are kicking on immediately.... Even when the engine is still 'cold'.
Consider changing the CTS, or inspecting the wiring to the CTS.
- Nick
Ah, changing the CTS! It's been so difficult, after finally figuring out how to unscrew the cam position sensor(heater cables in the way), i broke all of the hard plastic insulator off the wires to the cam sensor. It was extremely brittle, is it ok to leave the wires "free" like that?
Assuming the car runs like that, I would say it's OK..... *BUT* only *Temporary*.Put-Put_Neon wrote: Ah, changing the CTS! It's been so difficult, after finally figuring out how to unscrew the cam position sensor(heater cables in the way), i broke all of the hard plastic insulator off the wires to the cam sensor. It was extremely brittle, is it ok to leave the wires "free" like that?
At some point, I would replace the connector, with one from a junkyard -- Otherwise, the wiring could come loose... Usually at an inconvenient time.
You don't even have to splice in new wires.... Just replace the plastic connector itself.
It is actually pretty easy, to remove the spade terminals from the connector -- Once you figure out the 'trick'.
You'll need a very thin probe, to depress the 'tangs' or retainer 'tabs' that hold the wire spade in place.... Then you can slide the wire out of the connector.
You may want to practice this on a connector from the junkyard, first -- It may make more sense that way.
There is an excellent write-up on Neons.Org, posted by 'Alpinegreenneon', with some nice pictures, explaining all of this.
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f=125&t=295960
- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
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maybe I used the wrong word, the hard plastic conduit that was around the wires broke. The insulation is intact but there is no electrical tape or conduit around the wires.NickKo wrote:Assuming the car runs like that, I would say it's OK..... *BUT* only *Temporary*. :quotes:Put-Put_Neon wrote: Ah, changing the CTS! It's been so difficult, after finally figuring out how to unscrew the cam position sensor(heater cables in the way), i broke all of the hard plastic insulator off the wires to the cam sensor. It was extremely brittle, is it ok to leave the wires "free" like that?
At some point, I would replace the connector, with one from a junkyard -- Otherwise, the wiring could come loose... Usually at an inconvenient time.
You don't even have to splice in new wires.... Just replace the plastic connector itself.
It is actually pretty easy, to remove the spade terminals from the connector -- Once you figure out the 'trick'.
You'll need a very thin probe, to depress the 'tangs' or retainer 'tabs' that hold the wire spade in place.... Then you can slide the wire out of the connector.
You may want to practice this on a connector from the junkyard, first -- It may make more sense that way.
There is an excellent write-up on Neons.Org, posted by 'Alpinegreenneon', with some nice pictures, explaining all of this.
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f=125&t=295960
- Nick
Anyway, turns out the car wasnt recognizing the key. So i replaced the coolant sensor for nothing, but at least that allowed me to spot an oil leak at the cam sensor that i fixed.
Well...the dealer is raping me, $216 for one key. Smh.
- sidepipe87
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Maybe I missed something... why do you need a key? Did you lose or break your SKIM key? The car certainly won't start without itPut-Put_Neon wrote: Well...the dealer is raping me, $216 for one key. Smh.
PM me for your 00+ PCM SKIM/VIN flashing needs. Neon PCMs Plus
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The grey coating broke off so it was just the black plastic with the chip inside. Maybe it fell in the snow or something idk, but all of a sudden it just failed. It was working one minute, 2 hours later it wasnt and at least i was at home.sidepipe87 wrote:Maybe I missed something... why do you need a key? Did you lose or break your SKIM key? The car certainly won't start without itPut-Put_Neon wrote: Well...the dealer is raping me, $216 for one key. Smh.
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Dang it, it didn't make sense at the time when you said the coolant temp sensor light was flashing. I was tired and ready for bed when I read it. That is not a coolant temp light, it is the SKIM light. The round red light correct?
There is no warning for over heating, except the CEL...
That should have clicked, but my car doesn't have the SKIM feature, so it wasn't something I automatically think about.
But at least you got something out of it, just sucks the dealer was your only option. IIRC, some Wal Marts can program the key, it is $70 for the key, and you have to hope they can cut it correctly, tho that would be out of their pocket.
Too bad you don't have a spare, you could program a third ebay key as a back up.
There is no warning for over heating, except the CEL...
That should have clicked, but my car doesn't have the SKIM feature, so it wasn't something I automatically think about.
But at least you got something out of it, just sucks the dealer was your only option. IIRC, some Wal Marts can program the key, it is $70 for the key, and you have to hope they can cut it correctly, tho that would be out of their pocket.
Too bad you don't have a spare, you could program a third ebay key as a back up.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester