hey guys. so as the title says, i get a rattling noise in my 2000 neon when i get up to 55mph. the faster i go the worse it gets. first off i thought it was the plastic cover for the windshield wiper fluid reservoir cover that breaks free on almost all the 2nd gens i see, so i trimmed that up, and it kept doing it. then w/in a 2 day period i found out the hanger on my pacesetter exhaust on the right side broke, so i figured ok, that's what the rattling sound must be. the hanger just tapping against the exhaust. so i got a new exhaust. even before i put the new one on, i took the car for a ride down the highway just to see if it still made the sound, and it does. it sounds from inside the car like it's coming from the front to mid right side (passenger) side of the car. if any of you know about the plastic reservoir flap that breaks away if you bump it up to tap the lower engine mount (i think it is) that's almost exactly what it sounds like. as i get above 55mph it rattles really fast and when i change lanes to the right it almost goes away unless im turning right a little harder than a lane change then it almost gets louder. the best of my experience w/working on cars has been putting the progress lowering springs and exhaust on, so i'm not that technical savvy. any and all help tips or suggestions is welcome. thanks in advance.
also i havent had a chance to delve into it recently as it's been raining steady on and off for a few weeks now, along w/longer work hours due to the seasonal change, i'd just like to get an idea as to where and what i should be looking for when i try to tackle this problem tomorrow.
tory
rattling noise above 55mph. need help.
wheel bearing going out maybe? thats what my g/f had wrong on her suby... it could also be your altenator goin out or sumtin along those lines too... or you could be like me and leave a chissle ontop your engine... (yea, i forgot to take it out when i was fixing a screw... luckily it was wedged in the fuel rail the fuel rail cover, and the injectors
)

2003 Atlantic Blue SE (R.I.P. 03-06)
2003 Black SXT (R.I.P. 06-14)
2007 Silver Civic LX Coupe
hrm. my neon is wierd. i started having all these problems after i lowered it. after i got the springs on, i noticed when i turned right, i kinda got a "humming" noise, almost sounded like if you have air in the power steering fluid lines, but the car still drove fine so i didnt think anything about it. i actually think it got quieter as time went on. i got an alignment, i needed two new front tires by the time i got to it though, and even though the alignments still off slightly, the tire treading isn't wearing unevenly and i've put about 8k on the new tires. anyways the point i guess is, if it were the alternator wouldnt the car be hard to start also, or am i thinking of another part. is a wheel bearing a relatively expensive job? is it something two people could tackle on a sunday if i had the tools and supplies do you think? i dont know. seriously it sounds like somethings just loose. when i go fast enough though like 75-85, the noise becomes almost white, like no more rattling but it's louder than normal. i can tell the sound is still there. if it hadn't rained today i would've gotten under the car to try and track it down. it's just that the few short moments i had to look under, it didnt appear that anything else was loose, or misplaced.
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Mopar00Neon
- 2GN Member
- Posts: 1659
- Joined: Sat Jun 19, 2004 1:38 pm
- Location: EL Laaaay, CA.
"Pull the wheels, pull the brake calipers, remove brake disc. Next you will have to disconnect the lower ball joint and outer tie rod end. Remove keeper key and cover to access the large nut in the center of the hub. Remove the hub nut. Remove the two large nuts and bolts from the bottom of the strut where they attach to wheel "knuckle." Slide wheel knuck out toward you and the axle should slide out of the back of the hub. Now that the knuckle assembly is completely removed from the car, take it to a machine shop and have the old bearings pressed out and the new ones pressed in. Reinstall in vehicle and you are done."
does that sound about right for replacing the bearings? is this something that probablly happened because i lowered my car? do i have to have a machine shop remove the bearings and put a new one in, or is that something that can be done w/a little bit of "elbow grease" or does it require special tools?
also, will i need another alignment after this part is replaced? i was reading about it after a google search, and i found some info about durangos and they were also talking about "ball joint failure" is this another posibility, or is this something specific to suv's or trucks?
p.s. sorry i have alot of questions. i do appreciate all the help. i work on a/c's, heaters and homes for a living, so cars i dont know alot about but mechanically i enjoy doing the work, so i want to make sure i got all my bases covered before i start working on this project.
does that sound about right for replacing the bearings? is this something that probablly happened because i lowered my car? do i have to have a machine shop remove the bearings and put a new one in, or is that something that can be done w/a little bit of "elbow grease" or does it require special tools?
also, will i need another alignment after this part is replaced? i was reading about it after a google search, and i found some info about durangos and they were also talking about "ball joint failure" is this another posibility, or is this something specific to suv's or trucks?
p.s. sorry i have alot of questions. i do appreciate all the help. i work on a/c's, heaters and homes for a living, so cars i dont know alot about but mechanically i enjoy doing the work, so i want to make sure i got all my bases covered before i start working on this project.
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Mopar00Neon
- 2GN Member
- Posts: 1659
- Joined: Sat Jun 19, 2004 1:38 pm
- Location: EL Laaaay, CA.
Youll need a press to get the bearings in and out. Its an easy and quick job, if you have a press. And yes, youll need an alignment.
And for dealer prices, look to spend about $500 for two new hubs and two new bearings. Atleast thats what I paid about 2 years ago.
The things you discribed though are exactally like my car. I replaced everything first and didnt solve the problem. finally did the most expensive part (the hubs/bearings) and it was fixed.
And for dealer prices, look to spend about $500 for two new hubs and two new bearings. Atleast thats what I paid about 2 years ago.
The things you discribed though are exactally like my car. I replaced everything first and didnt solve the problem. finally did the most expensive part (the hubs/bearings) and it was fixed.
He is unworthy of the name of man who is ignorant of the fact that the diagonal of a square is incommensurable with its side.
-brian
2007 F-150
2006 Mitsubishi Outlander
2004 F-350
2000 Dodge Neon
1957 Chevy truck
1989 Chevy 1500

-brian
2007 F-150
2006 Mitsubishi Outlander
2004 F-350
2000 Dodge Neon
1957 Chevy truck
1989 Chevy 1500

well i dont have a press :'( i just got a frigging alignment 6 months ago. that's what makes me so mad. the real frustrating part is, i had to drive 45min. out of the way to get it aligned because nobody w/in 44 minutes of my place wanted to touch a car that had been lowered. i tell them "the makers of the springs say get it as close to normal specs as possible" and they say "no, it's not that easy"
maybe i can just have them do the front right since it's pretty obvious thats what the problem is. if it's atleast close to 250$ i might be able to budget that in, in another 2 months... then another however much for the alignment. one more question. what's about the worst that can happen if i continue to let it go, and just keep driving it like it is? (not that i would, it's been sitting for a week now)
maybe i can just have them do the front right since it's pretty obvious thats what the problem is. if it's atleast close to 250$ i might be able to budget that in, in another 2 months... then another however much for the alignment. one more question. what's about the worst that can happen if i continue to let it go, and just keep driving it like it is? (not that i would, it's been sitting for a week now)