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Timing belt??

Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 10:47 pm
by Silver2gn4me
I just turned 70,000 miles on my car. I have read that the timing belt should be changed at about 80,000 miles. Should I go ahead and do it now??? How hard is it to change?? Would I be better off paying someone to do it?? I tried to "search" for some info on here, but didnt find anything helpful. Thanks....

Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 11:02 pm
by Knightryda
its probably better that you have someone change your timing belt. if you notice look at the amount of room you have to change your belt. not to mention if you dont have it timed right you could ruin your engine. id figure that it would cost about 500 to 600 dollars to change. well that is how much it cost my bro on his integra. id also recomend getting the water pump changed too, because it is right there anyway. or at least when i get mine done ill have them change the water pump as long as the water pump is under 200 dollars. its not worth double the labor if the water pump goes out in the next 2 years

Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 11:07 pm
by Silver2gn4me
Damn!! $500. I "think" I can do it myself. I just want to know how difficult it is. How hard is it to get timed right??

Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 6:25 am
by BlackRoseRacing
*******************************
TIMING BELT
CHECKING BELT TIMING - COVER INSTALLED
Remove number one spark plug.
Using a dial indicator, set number one cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke.
Remove the access plug from the outer timing belt cover Timing Belt System
Check the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket, it should align with the arrow on the rear belt cover Camshaft Timing Marks

REMOVAL - TIMING BELT
Remove accessory drive belts. Refer to Group 7, Cooling System for procedures.
Raise vehicle on a hoist and remove right inner splash shield.
Remove crankshaft damper bolt. Remove damper using Special Tools 1026 three jaw puller and 6827-A insert Crankshaft Damper - Removal
Remove lower torque strut.
Lower vehicle and place a jack under engine.
Remove upper torque strut.
Remove right engine mount to engine mount bracket through bolt.
Remove power steering pump assembly and set aside.
Remove engine mount bracket Right Engine Mount Bracket
Remove front timing belt cover Timing Belt Cover
CAUTION: Align camshaft and crankshaft timing marks before removing the timing belt by rotating the engine with the crankshaft.

Insert a 8 mm Allen wrench into the hexagon opening located on the front of the belt tensioner pulley Timing Belt Removal Rotate the pulley counterclockwise until it contacts the stop. While holding tensioner pulley against stop, insert a 1/8" or 3 mm diameter pin or Allen wrench through the hole located to the left of the hex opening Timing Belt Removal While pushing pin into hole, allow the tensioner pulley to rotate back. Almost immediately, the pin should engage the locking hole to prevent further movement of the pulley.
Remove timing belt
CAUTION: Do not rotate the camshafts once the timing belt has been removed or damage to valve components may occur

CAMSHAFT AND CRANKSHAFT TIMING PROCEDURE AND BELT INSTALLATION
Set crankshaft sprocket to TDC by aligning the sprocket with the arrow on the oil pump housing, then back off to 3 notches before TDC. Crankshaft Sprocket Timing
Set camshaft to TDC by aligning mark on sprocket with the arrow on the rear of timing belt cover. Camshaft Timing Mark
Move crankshaft to 1/2 mark before TDC Adjusting Crankshaft Sprocket for Timing Belt Installation for belt installation.
Install timing belt. Starting at the crankshaft, go around the water pump sprocket and then around the camshaft sprocket.
Move crankshaft sprocket to TDC to take up belt slack.
Remove the pin or 1/8" or 3 mm Allen wrench from belt tensioner.
Rotate crankshaft 2 revolutions and check the alignment of the timing marks. Crankshaft and Camshaft Timing
Install front timing belt cover.
Install engine mount bracket.
Install right engine mount to engine mount bracket through bolt.
Remove jack from under engine.
Install upper torque strut.
Install power steering pump assembly.
Raise vehicle and install lower torque strut.
Install crankshaft damper using M12-1.75 x 150 mm bolt, washer, thrust bearing and nut from Special Tool 6792. Install crankshaft damper bolt and tighten to 142 N·m (100 ft. lbs.) Crankshaft Damper - Installation
Install accessory drive belts. Refer to Group 7, Cooling System for procedures.
Install right inner splash shield.
Lower vehicle and perform camshaft and crankshaft timing relearn procedure as follows:
Connect the DRB scan tool to the data link (diagnostic) connector. This connector is located in the passenger compartment; at the lower edge of instrument panel; near the steering column.
Turn the ignition switch on and access the "miscellaneous" screen.
Select "re-learn cam/crank" option and follow directions on DRB screen

******************************
Timing belt - 4667606 - $104msrp
Water Pump - 4667660AE - $99.95msrp

Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 7:13 am
by kirktalife
sooooo much work, i will be payin the dealer when i need to do mine

Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 11:16 am
by Edgel
all depends on how much down time you want with your car if you have mechanical ability it can be done in 4-5 hours but it is a pain in the ass and is easier to let someone else do it if you can afford it. If you do it make sure you get it in time so you don't run into timing issues. You also might think about a water pump while your in their and got it apart. :D

Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 11:33 am
by teamliviD
its pretty simple, just time consuming. ^^^this outline is good, you will be fine. if you go to napa, pepboys, autozone..the parts will only cost about $100 total. good luck!

Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 1:59 pm
by MyNeonSaysHi
I got mine replaced along with the serpentine belt for $250.

Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 8:17 pm
by BlackRoseRacing
I just posted what the dealer would charge part wise :P :)

Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 8:41 pm
by Silver2gn4me
Thanks Blackrose!! You are awesome. Yea I think I can do it. Jusy would be a all day thing. I like doing stuff to my car myself. I hate taking it to other people to work on. Ill let you guys know how it turns out. Probably wont be for a few weeks.....so wish me luck. Why would I need to change the water pump??

Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 9:16 pm
by racer12306
its a maintenance thing. since you are in there, might as well do it. its almost a hand in hand thing, change timing belt, change water pump.

Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 9:18 pm
by lilolneon
If you look in your cars instruction book :lol: it shold have another booklet with it, a Maintence Log type thing.... atleast mine came with it. It tells you all the recomended things at mileage intervals.

Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 9:22 pm
by Silver2gn4me
Got this one used. So I dont have the log. I guess Ill just do both while Im in there. Thanks for all the input guys. Check out my post in the "Engine" forum. I REALLY need some help with that issue.

Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 9:28 pm
by lilolneon
when i get back, ill post up what all should be done if i can remember to do it :-D

Posted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 5:06 pm
by atom
Back of your manual has the maintenance schedule as well. Damn, I need mine changed here soon as well... cant believe its 500 bucks to change a damn belt. Now that I look at all that needs to be done i see why.

Posted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 6:18 pm
by Silver2gn4me
Yea! Thats what I am saying. I think I will be saving some money and doing it myself with some good help!!

Posted: Sat Apr 29, 2006 3:39 am
by scneonchic
I got lucky when I did mine. I think all the OEM MOPAR parts cost me like $200? or so. My brother in law worked at firestone then, and he got me a major hookup on doing everything. I think I got fuzion zri's, all the timing belt, water pump stuff done for about $400. That was including my tires :lol:


I love discounts :)

Posted: Mon May 08, 2006 7:36 pm
by Mat
I was under the impression that the T-belt interval was 105K miles...due to the wimpier cam put in after '95. No?

Posted: Mon May 08, 2006 7:42 pm
by dawm
its not hard, just annoying. buy a haynes and it will walk you thru the steps. just dont break your tensioner (we did, but luckly the dealer was open and had it instock)

its much easier to do on a 1st gen then a 2nd gen, but SOHC is A LOT easier then a DOHC

Posted: Mon May 08, 2006 9:41 pm
by bige1030
BlackRoseRacing wrote: Lower vehicle and perform camshaft and crankshaft timing relearn procedure as follows:
Connect the DRB scan tool to the data link (diagnostic) connector. This connector is located in the passenger compartment; at the lower edge of instrument panel; near the steering column.
Turn the ignition switch on and access the "miscellaneous" screen.
Select "re-learn cam/crank" option and follow directions on DRB screen
Just out of curiosity, is there a cheap tool that will allow you to do this part of the procedure?

Posted: Tue May 09, 2006 4:03 am
by caustic neon
just go to auto zone, pep boys, or advanced auto they will rent you one for a small fee!

Posted: Tue May 09, 2006 11:57 am
by dawm
bige1030 wrote:
BlackRoseRacing wrote: Lower vehicle and perform camshaft and crankshaft timing relearn procedure as follows:
Connect the DRB scan tool to the data link (diagnostic) connector. This connector is located in the passenger compartment; at the lower edge of instrument panel; near the steering column.
Turn the ignition switch on and access the "miscellaneous" screen.
Select "re-learn cam/crank" option and follow directions on DRB screen
Just out of curiosity, is there a cheap tool that will allow you to do this part of the procedure?
i've never done the relearn on any neon ive worked on and never had any problems.

Posted: Tue May 09, 2006 1:15 pm
by grambo
The Parts Pimp said:
i've never done the relearn on any neon ive worked on and never had any problems.
I said: yup. But I paid for the timiing belt, water pump, all new seals, etc. No time for that kind of BS.

Posted: Tue May 09, 2006 4:22 pm
by BlackRoseRacing
I just copied and pasted from DCx, you probably dont need to do the quick learn...

Posted: Tue May 09, 2006 4:35 pm
by moparknighthawk
Per my owners manual the timing belt should be changed by 105,000 miles. I had the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump changed at 130,000 miles. You should change all three items since you have the engine torn apart anyway. Prevention is a key to long engine life and doing things at one time saves having to tear it down again. :)

Posted: Tue May 09, 2006 5:42 pm
by Mopar00Neon
Ive replaced it all in about 2.5 hours before. But Ive torn into neon engines more times than I can remember.

*shrugs*

Posted: Tue May 09, 2006 11:12 pm
by half_twisted
alright kids, this topic is just my cup of tea cuz i just spent around $370 getting my belt and then some more done this past weekend.. the $370 included

then not including the timing belt tentionore kit (dealer item only $320)

1. new timing belt (from the zone $54)
2. new water pump (from the zone with lifetime warrenty $45)
3. new upper cam seal (dodge dealer item $10)
4. new lower crank seal (dodge dealer item $10)
5. mechanic labore ($250)

once upone a time at 55k miles my water pump gave out so I took it in and $220 later I had me a new belt and water pump and upper and lower seals replaced. i was told my tentionore was stuck and not doing its job. i was unable to find one on a sat afternoon so i just had everything put back..

so at 95k i noticed a small oil leak right under the belt cover spraying oil all over the oil filter and oil pan.. that was a dead giveaway the cam seal and crank seal were shot.. then i also noticed my coolant was always running low every week...

long story short i replaced the belt tentionore, timing belt, cam seal, crank seal, and water pump. it was expensive but well worth it... my belt looked like it could have gone another 30k. it looked new..
my water pump had a black stain leaking from the outer seal on the pulley so the water pump was also starting to leak. the black stain was old oil build up from the coolant..

and as for the cam seal and crank seal, my timing belt cover had oil splatered in a circular pattern in the same location the upper and lower seal are so yup they both were leaking..


so if I was you Id save for a new tentionore, water pump, belt, cam and crank seal.. maybe you can do with out the tentionore..

good luck