Budget Drag Plans

Questions how to improve your 1/8, 1/4, or 60' times or maybe you just want to share your times, post it here.
racer12306
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Budget Drag Plans

Post by racer12306 » Fri Dec 19, 2008 10:47 am

Been a little slow at work this week and got to thinking about building a 1GN drag car. Below is what I came up with, remember most everything on this list has budget in mind. A few of them are a little on the pricey side.

Engine
1. 90* less intake (1GN)
2. bigger TB (58mm from 3.8, Jeep TB, Mustang TB)
3. MegaSquirt
4. K&N (ram air through driver headlight)
5. UDP
6. Magnum Header (long tube if $$ allows)
7. remove cat
8. replace muffler with bullet style & turndown (2.5”) in tunnel

Suspension
1. solid motor mounts (or filled with urethane)
2. solid trans mount (or filled with urethane)
3. solid bobble (1GN)
4. traction bars
5. replace struts with aluminum bars and use part of stock springs to mild dampening, so the back won't bounce down the track

Drivetrain
1. Maddog STS (as much reduction as available)
2. Booger Bushings (or new solid linkage ends)
3. JonnyMopar Bushings
4. weld diff pin (find a way to make a spool)
5. PT clutch when original wears out

Aero
1. “speed holes” in rear bumper

Safety
1. roll cage
2. master disconnect in tail delete (see weight reduction)

Tires/Wheels
1. 14x6 bubbles
a. 205/50/14 drag radial
b. 20x8x14 slicks
2. 15x4” space saver wheel off of dodge dynasty, old caravan or k car
a. 145/65/15 – 22.4” tall, 118mph rating, 12lbs each
i. If 13x4 can be found, 155/80/13

Weight Reduction
1. remove passenger and rear seat
2. remove passenger and rear seat belts
3. remove all carpeting (including trunk and hood) and sound deadener
4. remove center console
5. remove all interior plastic
6. replace tail lights with delete panels (weld thin steel or make an aluminum one)
7. replace passenger headlight with delete panel
8. remove driver side head light
9. revised in suspension, don't feel like renumbering
10. remove A/C system and power steering pump and hoses (loop hose on rack)
a. replace with manual rack as $$ allows
11. replace OEM intake track with ram air through driver head light
12. replace drivers seat with fixed position race seat (add 5pt and necessary bars)
13. remove mirrors, fill holes
14. remove wipers and wiper motor
15. remove radio, speakers, antenna assembly (plug hole)
16. remove windows/regulators, replace with lexan
17. remove OEM wire harness (after MS is installed)
18. remove extra emissions equipment
19. replace OEM fuel tank with 3 gallon fuel cell
20. remove OEM spoiler
21. remove rear sway bar
22. replace hood with fiberglass or carbon fiber
23. replace fenders with OEM style fiberglass or carbon fiber (if beneficial)
24. replace trunk with fiberglass or carbon fiber
25. remove un-needed fuses/relays
26. if stored indoors, remove all weather stripping (or deal with water in the car)
27. replace OEM steering column with aftermarket
28. replace dash with smaller aluminum dash
29. replace OEM size battery with lawn tractor battery
30. convert to manual brakes
31. remove wiper fluid system (keep if a methanol injection system is planned


opinions?
Last edited by racer12306 on Thu Jul 23, 2009 8:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by patiofurnituregt » Fri Dec 19, 2008 7:38 pm

Sound pretty cool...I would be curious to see what the weight difference is from stock to stripped weight (before installing the rollcage).

Is this going to be with a sohc or a dohc
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Post by racer12306 » Fri Dec 19, 2008 9:27 pm

For my personal car, I have no idea. Havn't bought or looked at one yet.

I may be helping invujerry with a project that involves a mean SOHC.
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Post by INVUJerry » Fri Dec 19, 2008 9:51 pm

Oh yes.

1996 Brilliant Blue sedan, .040" over 12.5:1 motor, crane 005, crane top end, and fully ported and polished head. This is going to be a bad bitch. I want to take the highest N/A dyno this year at carlisle.
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Post by 03blackrt » Fri Dec 19, 2008 10:03 pm

Rear metal bumper will be useless, remove it.

Remove the front metal bumper or replace it with somthing a little lighter.

Keep the stock steal hood/trunk/doors and cut out all the supports.

Aluminum rear trailing arms.

Remove the rear deck where the seat, seat belts, speakers mount.

Early 4-lug brakes (smaller).

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Post by racer12306 » Fri Dec 19, 2008 10:06 pm

i knew i was forgetting something. i thought of the front crashbar and replacing it, but didn't write it down, thus i forgot.


where would one come across aluminum trailing arms, or would i have to make that?
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Post by 03blackrt » Fri Dec 19, 2008 10:10 pm

racer12306 wrote: where would one come across aluminum trailing arms, or would i have to make that?
If you're going to replace the rear stuts with aluminum you could just cut some aluminum to size, drill some holes in the end and bolt it in.


EDIT:


Found the link...

http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f ... ntrol+arms


NOTE: I HAVE EDITED THIS TO MAKE IT ABSOLUTELY CLEAR WHAT TO PURCHASE TO BE COMPARABLE!!!

$285 dollars!!! HOLY OVERPRICED BATMAN!!! Tell me your are kidding right?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!

A monkey can make these in your backyard for half the cost!!!

Let's try smiley's first http://www.smileysracing.com/


Smiley's Racing wrote:
Steel Swaged tube:

DEL QTY DESCRIPTION SKU PRICE EXT PRICE
Smileys Racing Products Smiley's Swaged Steel Tubes: 5-8 SWAGE TUBE 17 IN 36187 14.95 59.80
Smileys Racing Products Smiley's Rod Ends: 1 2 X 5 8 MALE LH EML8-10 8.95 35.80
Smileys Racing Products Smiley's Rod Ends: 1 2 X 5 8 MALE RH EMR810 8.95 35.80
Lefthander Jam Nuts: 5-8 JAM NUT RH 0823105 0.85 3.40
Lefthander Jam Nuts: 5-8 JAM NUT LH 0823105L 0.85 3.40
Total 138.20


Let's see if we can upgrade and still beat the asking price!


Smiley's Racing wrote:
How about Aluminum tube for less weight...

DEL QTY DESCRIPTION SKU PRICE EXT PRICE
Smileys Racing Products Smiley's Rod Ends: 1 2 X 5 8 MALE RH EMR810 8.95 35.80
Lefthander Jam Nuts: 5-8 JAM NUT RH 0823105 0.85 3.40
Lefthander Jam Nuts: 5-8 JAM NUT LH 0823105L 0.85 3.40
AFCO Aluminum Threaded Tubes: 5/8 THREAD TUBE - 17 IN 36087-1 17.50 70.00
Smileys Racing Products Smiley's Rod Ends: 1 2 X 5 8 MALE LH EML8-10 8.95 35.80
Total 148.40


BELOW IS THE COMPARABLE MODEL, YOU GET MORE FOR THE MONEY BECAUSE YOU GET SEALS FOR ADDED LIFE, IF YOU OMIT THE SEALS THE COST COMES IN AT $177.42

Since this is an exercise, let's do Chromemoly...I even added seals to try to hike the price up a little higher! www.summitracing.com


summit racing wrote:
Part # Item Price Qty Line Total Delete

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

AFC-36187 Steering Linkage, Swaged Tube, Steel, Zinc Plated, 7/8 in. Diameter, 17 in. Length, 5/8 in.-18 RH/LH Threads $16.95 $67.80
·The quantity you requested is currently not available.Click here for part availability and tentative ship date information.

SIT-WS5001 Rod End Seals, Seals It, Stainless Steel/Rubber, 1.125 in. O.D., 0.510 in. I.D., .250 in. Height, Set of 6 $11.95 $23.90

SUM-XMAX8 Rod End, Black Max, 5/8 in.-18 RH Male Thread, 1/2 in. Bore, Chromemoly, with Jam Nut, Each $13.69 $54.76

SUM-XMAXL8 Rod End, Black Max, 5/8 in.-18 LH Male Thread, 1/2 in. Bore, Chromemoly, with Jam Nut, Each $13.69 $54.76

Select All

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If you have deleted any items from your cart or changed any quantities, please press the update button. Sub Total: $201.22


ABOVE IS THE COMPARABLE MODEL, YOU GET MORE FOR THE MONEY BECAUSE YOU GET SEALS FOR ADDED LIFE, IF YOU OMIT THE SEALS THE COST COMES IN AT $177.42

Just nuts! I can build a set of using Chromemoly parts cheaper than what he is selling them for!!! For that price why isn't MannyZ using Chromemoly with aluminum bars??? Talk about lightweight and strong!!!

If you were welding the threaded ends on the tubes and actually making a custom part (like the ones on my car) I could totally see the cost...but for manufactured catalog parts put together on a table...NO WAY!!! There is no custom fabrication involved, all you do is screw the parts together! There is no real labor involved in the making of these parts!

Grade 8, 1/2" bolts, washers, and lock nuts are not hard to find, they are fairly cheap too. Talk about a margin!!!

That may fly with the SRT guys, but there are people here that actually are part owner's of speed/racecar/fab shops, like me, and don't want to see good people here get ripped for "custom" parts that are not very custom at all.

I'm sorry, I just couldn't sit here and watch this...it made me very sad.

BTW to everyone watching who hasn't gotten the clue yet, above is the parts list you need...pretty straight forward. Merry Christmas!!! You are welcome, have fun shopping!

Mike

If you're going to replace the rear stuts with aluminum you could just cut some aluminum to size, drill some holes in the end and bolt it in. No need for fancy endlinks and threaded tubing if this is a budget build. :D

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Post by INVUJerry » Fri Dec 19, 2008 10:38 pm

Oh, I plan on cutting out everything I can to lose weight in the car.
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Post by Adam G » Sat Dec 20, 2008 8:08 pm

I started on a 1st gen drag car...deyeme mounts. booger mount. jerrys old 20x6x14 slicks, apexi exhaust, was building sohc bottom end with dohc head and srt4 turbo set up
Adam

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Post by mopar4life » Sun Dec 21, 2008 12:32 pm

My cousin's 1st gen coupe with all those mods and a 5 speed and I think a 50 shot. It runs 8.50 1/8th mile. Youll need alot more motor to go much faster than that unless you got crazy on nitrous or boost.
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Post by racer12306 » Sun Dec 21, 2008 12:41 pm

Does he have any weight, or anywhere close the amount of weight removed that I posted?

Never said it had to be fast, just something to get onto the track.
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Post by INVUJerry » Sun Dec 21, 2008 1:59 pm

8.50 1/8th is like 13.20's or so. The car I'm doing is getting a 12.5:1 motor with the crane 005. I should dyno anywhere from 180-200 whp, and I have a zex kit I'll put on top. It should be a decent 12 second car.
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Post by mopar4life » Sun Dec 21, 2008 2:18 pm

racer12306 wrote:Does he have any weight, or anywhere close the amount of weight removed that I posted?

Never said it had to be fast, just something to get onto the track.
He's got EVERYTHING gone outta the thing lol. Just a seat, half a dash to hold his gauges and a shifter. I bet it weighs 1800lbs or less. Speed holes in all the bumpers all that.
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randomZERO wrote:I'm trying to help you not insult you. This is why neons have a bad name is because people buy all these plastic do dads and crazy lites, the neon is not a christmas tree. .

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Post by INVUJerry » Sun Dec 21, 2008 2:23 pm

Thats the route I plan on going, only I'm running a sedan, there is more weight to be cut out of a sedan. I mean, only enough frame of the doors for it to shut, frame only for the hood and trunk, no dash with only a few gauges (tach, water temp, oil pressure). The dash might come later, since I wont have money for those gauges right now.
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Post by mopar4life » Sun Dec 21, 2008 2:28 pm

2000lbs shouldnt be too hard to get down to even being 4 door. With just 200hp you could eat Slowbra's on the street.
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randomZERO wrote:I'm trying to help you not insult you. This is why neons have a bad name is because people buy all these plastic do dads and crazy lites, the neon is not a christmas tree. .

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Post by INVUJerry » Sun Dec 21, 2008 4:34 pm

It's not gonna be on the street, I doubt I'll even have tags for it, but it would be interesting.
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mopar4life
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Post by mopar4life » Sun Dec 21, 2008 4:47 pm

Yeah, pro street Neon FTW though. He used to street drive it in race trim but the police werent too happy about it.
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randomZERO wrote:I'm trying to help you not insult you. This is why neons have a bad name is because people buy all these plastic do dads and crazy lites, the neon is not a christmas tree. .

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Post by INVUJerry » Sun Dec 21, 2008 5:11 pm

I mean, I would, but I doubt I'd pass emissions or inspection around here.
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Post by mopar4life » Sun Dec 21, 2008 5:26 pm

Ah, that sucks. Im glad Arkansas doesnt have emissions mess. Kinda kills the mod scene if you gotta pass a emissions test.
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randomZERO wrote:I'm trying to help you not insult you. This is why neons have a bad name is because people buy all these plastic do dads and crazy lites, the neon is not a christmas tree. .

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Post by INVUJerry » Sun Dec 21, 2008 6:00 pm

Yeah, right now my 98's registration is suspended for failure to appear at emissions. I need to de-mod it to try and get rid of some of the codes I'm throwing to pass emissions.
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Post by hybrid-Srt2001 » Mon Dec 22, 2008 3:33 am

you can get these cars super light. my 97 is gutted, and i can pick up the rear end.

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Post by sullivan » Fri Jan 02, 2009 5:23 pm

man iuf your using a sedan, strip the back doors down, use the sheetmetal, and weld it into place.... itd be likea 3 pound door
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Post by racer12306 » Thu Jul 23, 2009 8:47 am

bumping this up and i'm thinking more and more about it. hopefully the monte will be tagged by the end of september and then the neon will officially be for sale.

then i can purchase a 1gn to race.

more stuff like 03blackrt posted will be extremely helpful. i can make stuff cheaper than i can buy stuff.
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Post by bone-yard-racing » Thu Jul 23, 2009 10:44 am

Just a point 1gn shifters bolt to the floor with no bushings so you'd have no where to put Johnny's.

Chop door bars
Manual brakes and steering
Remove the reverse selector from the shifter
Chop the dash bar
Tubular control arms (front and rear)
4 lug and brakes use the 13x5.5 4 lug wheels for the rear
Pull all the insulation/sound deadening
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Post by racer12306 » Thu Jul 23, 2009 10:51 am

yeah, i learned that a week or so ago about the shifter.

remove reverse selector? sounds like something i need.
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Post by bone-yard-racing » Thu Jul 23, 2009 11:42 am

You intend to back up while racing? :lol:
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Post by racer12306 » Thu Jul 23, 2009 11:44 am

not during the racing, but messing around in the pits.
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Post by silversport » Thu Jul 23, 2009 1:01 pm

go turbo... if not id take MS of that list and save your $. for the extra power ull get out of MS over other way cheaper options...
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Post by racer12306 » Thu Jul 23, 2009 1:04 pm

the car could go turbo in the future, might as well get it now.

plus, i would want a performance computer. might as well spend a little more and get 100% adjustability
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Post by INVUJerry » Thu Jul 23, 2009 4:00 pm

Don't worry Frank, when you get this, I've got parts I'll hook you up with. I've got like 3 sohc heads laying around right now, 2 with the EGR delete done (2gn heads lol). I've got an intake mani you can make a ghetto blasters with.
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