Drag Racing a Stock Neon
Drag Racing a Stock Neon
I'm driving a 2004 SXT and basically, I'm going to be drag racing my friend in his 5-speed HHR LS. I just came here for a little advice on how to get an optimal launch and how to shift for the best times. Once again, my car is pretty much stock, running street tires. Thanks in advance.
EDIT: Also, poll for fun!
EDIT: Also, poll for fun!
- XxWhiteNeonxX
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Re: Drag Racing a Stock Neon
im assuming yours is a 5 speed as well.. If so, shift at 5500 every gear except first. First you can rev a hair past 5500 to help compensate for the rpm loss going from first to second.Tyke wrote:I'm driving a 2004 SXT and basically, I'm going to be drag racing my friend in his 5-speed HHR LS. I just came here for a little advice on how to get an optimal launch and how to shift for the best times. Once again, my car is pretty much stock, running street tires. Thanks in advance.
EDIT: Also, poll for fun!
Start with launching at like 2500 and go up from there.
-Cody
Haganracing wrote: Love you Cody, even if you fail in life <3
2004 dodge neon-300whp and countingLeighvi424 wrote:omg cody i think u gave me a woodie
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Re: Drag Racing a Stock Neon
Not really.XxWhiteNeonxX wrote:im assuming yours is a 5 speed as well.. If so, shift at 5500 every gear except first. First you can rev a hair past 5500 to help compensate for the rpm loss going from first to second.Tyke wrote:I'm driving a 2004 SXT and basically, I'm going to be drag racing my friend in his 5-speed HHR LS. I just came here for a little advice on how to get an optimal launch and how to shift for the best times. Once again, my car is pretty much stock, running street tires. Thanks in advance.
EDIT: Also, poll for fun!
Start with launching at like 2500 and go up from there.
-Cody
Rev to the limiter and launch higher than 2500.
Tire spin is good, to a point. You just have to find that point.
-Frank
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Re: Drag Racing a Stock Neon
This^ ive had alot more success launching 2500-3k letting the tires get some spin and just slamming gears right before the limiterracer12306 wrote:Not really.XxWhiteNeonxX wrote:im assuming yours is a 5 speed as well.. If so, shift at 5500 every gear except first. First you can rev a hair past 5500 to help compensate for the rpm loss going from first to second.Tyke wrote:I'm driving a 2004 SXT and basically, I'm going to be drag racing my friend in his 5-speed HHR LS. I just came here for a little advice on how to get an optimal launch and how to shift for the best times. Once again, my car is pretty much stock, running street tires. Thanks in advance.
EDIT: Also, poll for fun!
Start with launching at like 2500 and go up from there.
-Cody
Rev to the limiter and launch higher than 2500.
Tire spin is good, to a point. You just have to find that point.
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2002 Dodge Neon
Frankenstien
2002 Dodge Neon
Frankenstien
Launch rpm is debatable due to track/street conditions, tire size, tire quality, gear ratio, suspension. What works for one car at one track/street doesn't necessarily work for another.
Trial and error and practice, lots of it and pay close attention to your 60 ft times, don't be afraid to play with suspension either,it can make all the difference in the world.....stock up on trannies.
Average rebuilt trans is good for 120 launches at 2500 or higher at near stock power levels and decreases expontentially with mods at least due to my personal research and experiences......syncros start failing shortly thereafter providing your power shifting and nearly bouncing off limiter, you can get the rpms up damn near close to 6700 on tach without hitting it on non rt pcms and roughly 6900 with rt's. *disclaimer not all tach and or computers are identical *
A 3" catback with a header and downpipe with no cat will give you some really decent acelleration on an otherwise stock engine but daily driving will have a flatspot between 2000-3000 rpms and if you get some bad gas it will backfire and run like crap below 3000 rpms....
Bad gas explains itself, as far as the under 3000 issue its related to exhaust temps, colder air is (denser) harder to push out, when you get it up over 3000 rpms there is enough heat and flow to nullify this issue.
Trial and error and practice, lots of it and pay close attention to your 60 ft times, don't be afraid to play with suspension either,it can make all the difference in the world.....stock up on trannies.
Average rebuilt trans is good for 120 launches at 2500 or higher at near stock power levels and decreases expontentially with mods at least due to my personal research and experiences......syncros start failing shortly thereafter providing your power shifting and nearly bouncing off limiter, you can get the rpms up damn near close to 6700 on tach without hitting it on non rt pcms and roughly 6900 with rt's. *disclaimer not all tach and or computers are identical *
A 3" catback with a header and downpipe with no cat will give you some really decent acelleration on an otherwise stock engine but daily driving will have a flatspot between 2000-3000 rpms and if you get some bad gas it will backfire and run like crap below 3000 rpms....
Bad gas explains itself, as far as the under 3000 issue its related to exhaust temps, colder air is (denser) harder to push out, when you get it up over 3000 rpms there is enough heat and flow to nullify this issue.
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Launch RPM is debatable, but the fact that you want to spin to get the engine up into it's power band is not. These engines wake up at about 4500rpm so you want to get it above that as quickly as possible.
3" exhaust on a stock engine is way too big. The stock piping is much more appropriate.
3" exhaust on a stock engine is way too big. The stock piping is much more appropriate.
-Frank
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As far as advice to OP...
I doubt that last little bit of 2" at the axle back is going to make any difference on a basically stock set up. The muffler outlet is 1.875" BTW.
Mine had no issues bouncing the rev limiter with the oem exhaust (early '01 two inch from cat back) The exhaust as is - late '01 and up is plenty sufficient for most bolt-ons . A muffler may give you some gains, but it is more of an audio accessory in most cases.
I didn't really see any earth shattering change from going to 2.25 mandrel bent from the cat to the muffler.
Sounds better tho.
Last Visited: Sat Apr 21, 2012 7:21 pm
I doubt that last little bit of 2" at the axle back is going to make any difference on a basically stock set up. The muffler outlet is 1.875" BTW.
Mine had no issues bouncing the rev limiter with the oem exhaust (early '01 two inch from cat back) The exhaust as is - late '01 and up is plenty sufficient for most bolt-ons . A muffler may give you some gains, but it is more of an audio accessory in most cases.
I didn't really see any earth shattering change from going to 2.25 mandrel bent from the cat to the muffler.
Sounds better tho.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
WTF are you smoking? How many Neon transmissions have you gone through? A properly rebuilt and modified one will last well over 120 launches on the Neons that 99% of people have on here. Especially with this guy's stock Neon.chew* wrote:Average rebuilt trans is good for 120 launches at 2500 or higher at near stock power levels and decreases expontentially with mods at least due to my personal research and experiences......syncros start failing shortly thereafter providing your power shifting and nearly bouncing off limiter, you can get the rpms up damn near close to 6700 on tach without hitting it on non rt pcms and roughly 6900 with rt's. *disclaimer not all tach and or computers are identical
I rarely see worn fibrides on synchronizers unless there are other problems in the trans. Running low/improper oil and not changing it are the main reasons that they wear out. That and clogged oiling holes but that usually takes out the bearings under the gears 1st.
I never mentioned modified, just rebuilt. As for how many? I think 4 or 5 so far........about to pull rebuilt one out after 150 races the last 30 which have required pounding third into gear.chipdogg wrote:WTF are you smoking? How many Neon transmissions have you gone through? A properly rebuilt and modified one will last well over 120 launches on the Neons that 99% of people have on here. Especially with this guy's stock Neon.chew* wrote:Average rebuilt trans is good for 120 launches at 2500 or higher at near stock power levels and decreases expontentially with mods at least due to my personal research and experiences......syncros start failing shortly thereafter providing your power shifting and nearly bouncing off limiter, you can get the rpms up damn near close to 6700 on tach without hitting it on non rt pcms and roughly 6900 with rt's. *disclaimer not all tach and or computers are identical
I rarely see worn fibrides on synchronizers unless there are other problems in the trans. Running low/improper oil and not changing it are the main reasons that they wear out. That and clogged oiling holes but that usually takes out the bearings under the gears 1st.
This one was experimental using a moly grade oil with a zinc additive, problem is its so slick that I believe it caused issues with the fiber disc at tail end of input shaft. Will know more when we overhaul it.
The reverse brake? Upgrade to the brass version.chew* wrote: the fiber disc at tail end of input shaft.
Where are you getting your parts? I rebuild T-350's and have access to OEM parts for much cheaper than dealerships have them.
As for only rebuilding them, why wouldn't you modify them to work better? Chamfer/tear drop the oiling holes, upgrade to the 2nd gen style shift keys, use the 2nd gen rear cover (thicker and better designed troughs to direct oil down both shafts).
Actually was going to contact you anyway, been buying parts at portland transmission, they keep telling me mid shaft isn't serviceablechipdogg wrote:The reverse brake? Upgrade to the brass version.chew* wrote: the fiber disc at tail end of input shaft.
Where are you getting your parts? I rebuild T-350's and have access to OEM parts for much cheaper than dealerships have them.
As for only rebuilding them, why wouldn't you modify them to work better? Chamfer/tear drop the oiling holes, upgrade to the 2nd gen style shift keys, use the 2nd gen rear cover (thicker and better designed troughs to direct oil down both shafts).
I will be in touch soon, need to overhaul a few of them.
Still experimenting with fluids and checking wear, definitely would not reccomend anything I am using however as its highly experimental.
I have a 50 ton OTC or i could send you shaft. I need to help mike car audioholic redo his trans to, I did something to help it along but i fear it was partially damaged already. I had mentioned getting in touch with you to him to source some parts. I don't think the guy who installed his lsd shimmed it right or checked turning torque. my first guess was they installed speedo gear backwards twice....chipdogg wrote:The output shaft isn't serviceable. Chrysler only sells it as an assembly and the FSM strongly recommends not taking it apart.
But I can get parts for it. 1-2 synchronizer assembly, fibrides, etc. I built a fixture to help press it apart. Need a 20+ ton press.
This latest trans should be interesting to inspect, if sitting idle for any length of time shifting gets a tad sticky, launch it in one race and your preety screwed to get in any gear till you shut it off and start it a few times. If i had to guess the spiral inside input shaft is worn among a few other issues, possibly wore out t350 shift fork also ( not an easy task ). Curious what the moly hurt/helped also.
Probably should discuss this in drivetrain section though