which engine set up is ideal for auto-cross?
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which engine set up is ideal for auto-cross?
right now i have a stock 2000 mtx and want to know which swap i should be researching, an R/T magnum, 2.4 dohc n/a, srt-4. not much into drag style racing. oh yeah this is my DD and as i have 3 kids so ... yeah I'll be doing mods in stages.also if you could give me an idea or list of mods that you've found that have helped you and how?and i apologize before hand because I'm sure I'm not posting this right.
- gtxtreme19
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In the simplest terms...
If you decide boost, there is really no doing it in stages. Save up, and do it all at once. Otherwise what you put into it to build power in N/A form will be money wasted in most cases.
A Magnum engine isn't going to make the power without all the supporting hardware, which unless you find a complete donor car for under $300 to $400, it isn't worth the gain. Even that amount is really pushing it for the 18 hp at the flywheel.
The 2.4 N/A would be the better choice there, as the base peak HP is the same, but there is more torque available, and mods will make better power.
Also, for your daily, with a family to haul around, you may want to consider a separate car to Auto X. Things will break. Tires won't last. There is that risk that something that didn't totally fail at the track, could do so while you are on your way somewhere with the wife and/or kids.
If you decide boost, there is really no doing it in stages. Save up, and do it all at once. Otherwise what you put into it to build power in N/A form will be money wasted in most cases.
A Magnum engine isn't going to make the power without all the supporting hardware, which unless you find a complete donor car for under $300 to $400, it isn't worth the gain. Even that amount is really pushing it for the 18 hp at the flywheel.
The 2.4 N/A would be the better choice there, as the base peak HP is the same, but there is more torque available, and mods will make better power.
Also, for your daily, with a family to haul around, you may want to consider a separate car to Auto X. Things will break. Tires won't last. There is that risk that something that didn't totally fail at the track, could do so while you are on your way somewhere with the wife and/or kids.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
what the Dude said... But to answer your question it completely depends on what class you want to run in. Figure out the class first (the correct answer is where ever you ARE now) and work around those rules.
Dont be quick to throw parts or too many changes in the mix. But for god sakes get all your maintence items done and make sure your suspension (bushings, bj, tierods, struts that aren't blown etc..) are in tip top shape. Then get a decent 4wheel alignemnet.
If your local club or anywhere nearish offers an AutoX school in the spring DO IT. lots of seat time and instruction for the money.
tro
Dont be quick to throw parts or too many changes in the mix. But for god sakes get all your maintence items done and make sure your suspension (bushings, bj, tierods, struts that aren't blown etc..) are in tip top shape. Then get a decent 4wheel alignemnet.
If your local club or anywhere nearish offers an AutoX school in the spring DO IT. lots of seat time and instruction for the money.
tro
03 SRT
Now building for GS
Now building for GS
bah... I daily drive my autox racer 138miles every day. if something seriously broke during an autox, consider it wear or normal mainteance or you did something stupid like run low on oil/water. the act of autoxing inst especially hard on stock vehicles. Forgetting/missing a shift is about it. So dont do that. 155K miles 14+ events last year and its never let me down, though i do bring a small tool box.
your 95WHP neon is far more capable than you think. With practice you'll be surprised at the expensive hardware thats slower. If you absolutely MUST changes parts besides my before mentioned maintenance items concider these before anything else
REAR sway bar!! if you dont already, if your cheap/budget concious an ACR 19mm at the dealership is ~$45 so dont bother buying one and having to pay shipping.
23"> Tires. Soft, short, and wide. you need all the gearing advantage you can get.
3.94 trans. 10% gearing adjantage. its like a new car. if you never dropped your trans, your rear main is probably leaking all over your clutch anyways...
urethane suspension bushings. If yours are rubber, they are most definitely broke or will be soon.
That said i AM going to a magnum top end next year. I'd kill for the 20 HP but more importantly more useable RPM. past 5800.
Tro
your 95WHP neon is far more capable than you think. With practice you'll be surprised at the expensive hardware thats slower. If you absolutely MUST changes parts besides my before mentioned maintenance items concider these before anything else
REAR sway bar!! if you dont already, if your cheap/budget concious an ACR 19mm at the dealership is ~$45 so dont bother buying one and having to pay shipping.
23"> Tires. Soft, short, and wide. you need all the gearing advantage you can get.
3.94 trans. 10% gearing adjantage. its like a new car. if you never dropped your trans, your rear main is probably leaking all over your clutch anyways...
urethane suspension bushings. If yours are rubber, they are most definitely broke or will be soon.
That said i AM going to a magnum top end next year. I'd kill for the 20 HP but more importantly more useable RPM. past 5800.
Tro
03 SRT
Now building for GS
Now building for GS
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If we're just talking about engine, my vote is on the 2.4 N/A. As a stock 2.0, I found myself wanting more power pretty often. But then boosted, I went right past usable power range and it turned into a tire-waster. I'm pretty sure R-comps did a lot more for my times than the entire turbo setup.
The flat torque range of the 2.4 would make it a lot more manageable, and doesn't add a bunch of extra parts that could fail in a turbo system.
The flat torque range of the 2.4 would make it a lot more manageable, and doesn't add a bunch of extra parts that could fail in a turbo system.
ASP - First NGC SOHC in the 13s and the 12s. First SOHC neon over 500whp. First NGC Neon on MS.
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- a23dranger
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An engine swap in your neon will put you in the Street Mod category which is pretty much an open class. You will not be as competitive as you would like. If you want to be competitive stick with what you got and build the car to the rules of which class you would like to be in.
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