Question about solo class for my car
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Question about solo class for my car
I am running a 2004 SXT Neon for starters
Mods currently aboard, unless noted all else is factory.
1. Modified factory airbox with drop in cotton air filter
2. knife edged 1st gen throttle plate
3. PT Cruiser shifter (in the factory boot and knob)
4. Drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads
5. Thrush Turbo muffler, factory 2.00" piping
6. 1st gen 16mm R/T sway bar with custom strut tabs and a heim joint
to connect to the 1st gen sway bar links.
That is it. The only thing that I am curious about is the rear sway bar. Is that going to bump me up a class? Would a factory sway bar, say from a 2000 with my strut tabs, also bump me up to STS?
I am running more to have fun than anything else, just curious which class I might be in.
I am also missing an A pillar plastic cover....is that removing my interior?
Future modifications
1. SRT4 factory springs
2. 19-21mm rear sway bar (ACR or aftermarket)
3. wider, stickier tires (considering Falken 512's or Kumho Ecsta AST....something still mild)
4. Polyurethane suspension bushings
5. Camber bolts up front
6. Front and rear strut bars
Mods currently aboard, unless noted all else is factory.
1. Modified factory airbox with drop in cotton air filter
2. knife edged 1st gen throttle plate
3. PT Cruiser shifter (in the factory boot and knob)
4. Drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads
5. Thrush Turbo muffler, factory 2.00" piping
6. 1st gen 16mm R/T sway bar with custom strut tabs and a heim joint
to connect to the 1st gen sway bar links.
That is it. The only thing that I am curious about is the rear sway bar. Is that going to bump me up a class? Would a factory sway bar, say from a 2000 with my strut tabs, also bump me up to STS?
I am running more to have fun than anything else, just curious which class I might be in.
I am also missing an A pillar plastic cover....is that removing my interior?
Future modifications
1. SRT4 factory springs
2. 19-21mm rear sway bar (ACR or aftermarket)
3. wider, stickier tires (considering Falken 512's or Kumho Ecsta AST....something still mild)
4. Polyurethane suspension bushings
5. Camber bolts up front
6. Front and rear strut bars
if your a noob no one is really going to care what class you run but.. For 2012 the rules changed quite a bit. Your choices are STC, HS, FSP* (I think) lets stick with the first two.
this puts you in "STC"
2. knife edged 1st gen throttle plate
1. Modified factory airbox with drop in cotton air filter
Rear bar is OK this year in Stock classes. IMO put the Airbox back to stock and run HS, ignore the TB, no one is going to know and its not appreciably helping. at the minimum Get a 19mm rear ACR bar from the dealer for $45.
future mods
1. SRT4 factory springs **FOR SURE STC**
2. 19-21mm rear sway bar (ACR or aftermarket)
If you're buying aftermarket 22mm min or something adjustable. I ran F22/R22. I would max out HS, you get better PAX and can still beat up on most cars with your street tires.
3. wider, stickier tires (considering Falken 512's or Kumho Ecsta
the usual street tire suspects are: RS3, RE11, XS, Star Spec . I run 225/45 rs3 up front and 205/50 XS in the back with success.
Put a 3.94 trans near the top of your list, good time to do a clutch and a rear main seal. not completely necessary but its an instant 10% gearing improvement.
Tro
this puts you in "STC"
2. knife edged 1st gen throttle plate
1. Modified factory airbox with drop in cotton air filter
Rear bar is OK this year in Stock classes. IMO put the Airbox back to stock and run HS, ignore the TB, no one is going to know and its not appreciably helping. at the minimum Get a 19mm rear ACR bar from the dealer for $45.
future mods
1. SRT4 factory springs **FOR SURE STC**
2. 19-21mm rear sway bar (ACR or aftermarket)
If you're buying aftermarket 22mm min or something adjustable. I ran F22/R22. I would max out HS, you get better PAX and can still beat up on most cars with your street tires.
3. wider, stickier tires (considering Falken 512's or Kumho Ecsta
the usual street tire suspects are: RS3, RE11, XS, Star Spec . I run 225/45 rs3 up front and 205/50 XS in the back with success.
Put a 3.94 trans near the top of your list, good time to do a clutch and a rear main seal. not completely necessary but its an instant 10% gearing improvement.
Tro
Last edited by trojmn on Sat Mar 17, 2012 12:15 pm, edited 2 times in total.
03 SRT
Now building for GS
Now building for GS
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PN's in this thread
viewtopic.php?t=6306
19mm ACR rear bar 4656855AA
though i 2gn rear bars wouldn't work with your hiem joint setup. find a 1gn rear bar or an adjustable rear, those have horizontal holes.
viewtopic.php?t=6306
19mm ACR rear bar 4656855AA
though i 2gn rear bars wouldn't work with your hiem joint setup. find a 1gn rear bar or an adjustable rear, those have horizontal holes.
03 SRT
Now building for GS
Now building for GS
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- Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2011 11:44 pm
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This is my sway bar setup without the heim. The heim accepts the lower bolt from the factory 1gn link.
switching to the 2gn style will not be a problem.
Wow, I just looked up that sway bar....if I had known that I would have ordered it straight away and not even messed with my old 1gn bar.
I will give this 16mm a race and then upgrade for the next Thanks for the info.
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From the 2012 Solo Book
This does not take into account the hidden stuff, like the aforementioned throttle body mod and my PT Cruiser gearshift hidden beneath the stock boot.
It looks like the Street Touring Category is where I am at right now. I do not feel like yanking the sway, the front rotors, and dropping the airbox back in for the race. I guess I will just bite the bullet and see what I am running against.
The time behind the wheel mod is what I need the most and that is where I am going to concentrate.
My prothane motor mount bushings are not allowed in stock classes, and so starts the list. ha ha13.1 AUTHORIZED MODIFICATIONS
If a modification is not specifically authorized in this or previous sections
of these Rules, it is not allowed.
My rotors are cross drilled, so they do not allow me to run in stock class.13.6 BRAKES
A. The make and material of brake linings may be changed.
B. Substitution of clutch and brake hydraulic lines with solid metal or
braided metal is allowed on all cars manufactured before model year
1992.
C. Alternate brake bleeder fittings, such as “Speedbleeders,” are permitted.
They may serve no other purpose.
My custom heim joint adapter for the 1gn sway bar will also probably kick me out too. That ACR sway bar sounds better and better.13.7 ANTI-ROLL (SWAY) BARS
C. No modification to the body, frame, or other components to accommodate
anti-roll bar addition or substitution is allowed except for the
drilling of holes for mounting bolts. Non-standard lateral members
which connect between the brackets for the bar are not permitted.
My butchered airbox, like you mentioned, kicks me, but I have also removed the fender resonator a long time ago.13.10 ENGINE AND DRIVE TRAIN
A. The engine air filter element may be removed or replaced provided
the air flow path remains as originally designed (i.e., no additional
openings). No other components of the air induction system may be
removed, replaced, or modified.
This does not take into account the hidden stuff, like the aforementioned throttle body mod and my PT Cruiser gearshift hidden beneath the stock boot.
It looks like the Street Touring Category is where I am at right now. I do not feel like yanking the sway, the front rotors, and dropping the airbox back in for the race. I guess I will just bite the bullet and see what I am running against.
The time behind the wheel mod is what I need the most and that is where I am going to concentrate.
- bone-yard-racing
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If you really had a stock neon, thats why i suggested staying in HS even on streets.GroceryGetter wrote:The time behind the wheel mod is what I need the most and that is where I am going to concentrate.
Absolutely the driver mod is the best mod. Check with your local club, most aroud here put on a driving school. I went to one purely for the seat time. We got in ~20 runs for the entry fee of $75 and the added bennifit of someone yelling instructions at me. I probably took off a whole second through the entire year just but feeling more confortable and learning to get on the gas sooner.
STC is alot of fun.
not around here With the 2012 rear swaybar and camber rules that may change. I expect a lot of PAX adjustments for 2013.bone-yard-racing wrote: ST is usually slower than HS race tires vs. street tires.
Tro
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I will ask about driving schools. Would be fun to do.
I will play with ST class and see what I can do, because I am not going to pull my modifications off to get back to stock class. Going to go have fun with room to modify my car still and not go over board.
The drag car, my 97, is where the big money is going. This is for fun and to add to the skills I obtained on the street.
Any tips are welcome. I want to learn and I am not foolish enough to think I know anything outside of the engine bay, where I used to focus on. I am learning, so feel free to flood me with your experiences.
I will play with ST class and see what I can do, because I am not going to pull my modifications off to get back to stock class. Going to go have fun with room to modify my car still and not go over board.
The drag car, my 97, is where the big money is going. This is for fun and to add to the skills I obtained on the street.
Any tips are welcome. I want to learn and I am not foolish enough to think I know anything outside of the engine bay, where I used to focus on. I am learning, so feel free to flood me with your experiences.
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- 2GN Member
- Posts: 106
- Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2011 11:44 pm
- Location: Lake Charles LA
- bone-yard-racing
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