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Help rough-a@@ idle!

Posted: Wed Sep 06, 2006 5:46 pm
by SiberianNeon0
Hey I recently attempted a cam swap on my car...

I took off the cover, the rockers and the little bolts on both the intake and exhaust side. I DID NOT do the swap because I noted you need to remove the whole cylinder head and I did not have a new head gasket...So i put the bolts back in and retorqued them to 85, put the rockers back on (but one of them clicked and turned 360 degrees) and put my cover back on...

Now when I start my car, the idle is rough and my tach needle twitches between 800-1000 RPMS...driving is crap cuz I have no low-end power and takes forever to get to speed. It makes this nice clicking-ticking sound when I accelerate and when I stop after moving, the idle is terrible and hits 500 then 700 and keeps vibrating, coughing...I have no clue what this is...HELP!???

Posted: Wed Sep 06, 2006 6:11 pm
by 03blackrt
im gusseing you probly didn't set the lash caps on the valve steams correctly

fyi, you do not need to remove the cylinder head to do a cam swap.

lash caps?

Posted: Wed Sep 06, 2006 8:30 pm
by SiberianNeon0
What are the lash caps??! I am car impaired when it comes to engine internals...I can change tires, oil, air filter, and spark plugs on her and I think I am God...hehe

Are they those bolts with the rectangles on them? for Intake and Exhaust...I know they need to be at the right torque...

Posted: Wed Sep 06, 2006 9:48 pm
by 03blackrt
when you put the rocker arms back on, there are litle thingds that swival on the end of the rocker arm that toches the top of the velm steam. if this thing (the lash adjuster) does not sit on the valve corectly you c0uld throw off the vlave timing and valve lift. remove the valve cover and make sure that all of the lash adjusters are sitting on the top of the valve steam. this is just my gusse, since its the only thing you touched.

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Either that or you installed the rocker arm pivot tube (the thing that the botls go thru) upside down and your not getting oil to them, making them loud.

Or you damaged them somehow.



From the mopar manual,,,,,


ROCKER ARM / HYDRAULIC
LASH ADJUSTER ASSEMBLY


DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC LASH ADJUSTER NOISE DIAGNOSIS

A tappet-like noise may be produced from several
items. Check the following items.

(1) Engine oil level too high or too low. This may
cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause
them to be spongy.

(2) Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylinder
head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be
required.

(3) During this time, turn engine off and let set for
a few minutes before restarting. Repeat this several
times after engine has reached normal operating
temperature.

(4) Low oil pressure.

(5) The oil restrictor (integral to the head gasket)
in the vertical oil passage to the cylinder head is
plugged with debris.

(6) Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked
oil pump pick up.

(7) Worn valve guides.

(8) Missing swivel foot on lash adjuster.

(9) Incorrect rocker shaft installation.

(10) Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maximum
extension and still leaves lash in the system.

(11) Faulty lash adjuster.

² Check lash adjusters for sponginess while
installed in cylinder head. Depress part of rocker
arm over adjuster. Normal adjusters should feel very
firm. Spongy adjusters can be bottomed out easily.

² Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace as
necessary.

REMOVAL

(1) Remove cylinder head cover. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL)

(2) Identify the rocker arm shaft assemblies before
removal.

(3) Loosen the attaching fasteners. Remove rocker
arm shaft assemblies from cylinder head.

(4) Identify the rocker arms spacers and retainers
for reassembly. Disassemble the rocker arm assemblies
by removing the attaching bolts from the shaft
(Fig. 25).

(5) Slide the rocker arms and spacers off the shaft.
Keep the spacers and rocker arms in the same location
for reassembly.

INSPECTION

(1) Inspect the rocker arm for scoring, wear on the
roller or damage to the rocker arm (Fig. 26). Replace
as necessary.

(2) Check the location where the rocker arms
mount to the shafts for wear or damage. Replace if
damaged or worn.

(3) The rocker arm shaft is hollow and is used as a
lubrication oil duct. Check oil holes for clogging with
small wire, clean as required.

INSTALLATION

CAUTION: Set crankshaft to 3 notches before TDC
before installing rocker arm shafts. Refer to Timing
Belt System and Camshaft Seal Service of this section
for procedure.

(1) Lubricate the rocker arms and spacers. Install
onto shafts in their original position (Fig. 25).

(2) Install rocker arm/hydraulic lash adjuster
assembly making sure that adjusters are at least
partially full of oil. This is indicated by little or no
plunger travel when the lash adjuster is depressed. If
there is excessive plunger travel. Place the rocker
arm assembly into clean engine oil and pump the
plunger until the lash adjuster travel is taken up. If
travel is not reduced, replace the assembly. Hydraulic
lash adjuster and rocker arm are serviced as an
assembly.

(3) Install rocker arm and shaft assemblies with
NOTCH in the rocker arm shafts pointing up and
toward the timing belt side of the engine (Fig. 27).
Install the retainers in their original positions on the
exhaust and intake shafts (Fig. 25).

CAUTION: When installing the intake rocker arm
shaft assembly be sure that the plastic spacers do
not interfere with the spark plug tubes. If the spacers
do interfere rotate until they are at the proper
angle. To avoid damaging the spark plug tubes, do
not attempt rotating the spacers by forcing down
the shaft assembly.

(4) Verify that hydraulic lash adjuster swivel feet
are still in place.

(5) Tighten bolts to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.) in
sequence shown in (Fig. 28).

6) Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -

hmmmmmm maybe THIS is why!

Posted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 8:11 am
by SiberianNeon0
We never did this before throwing the rockers back on...could this be why the timing is off??? Can I just click the crack now? What is TDC?


CAUTION: Set crankshaft to 3 notches before TDC
before installing rocker arm shafts. Refer to Timing
Belt System and Camshaft Seal Service of this section
for procedure.

Posted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 9:22 am
by tamadrumr88
TDC = Top Dead Center

Maybe this is why!!!!

Posted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 10:06 am
by SiberianNeon0
could this be why???! My buddy said the same thing! Can I readjust the crank with the rockers and the valve-cover on? How do I find TDC I can't find it in the manual!

Posted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 1:44 pm
by 2k2patriotblueneon
Not to sound like a jerk but you should seriously consider bringing this to someone to install the CAM as this will fix the problem and if you try fixing it yourself you risk hurting it more then you already have.

never put a cam in

Posted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 9:31 pm
by SiberianNeon0
well i never took out my cam or the cylinder head out of my car. I just removed the rockers and noticed that the Mag cam was already put in. So i must have put it togther wrong.

Problem Fixed!!!!!!!!

Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 2:52 pm
by SiberianNeon0
Yeah so I fixed the problem all by myself.

It turns out that the 5 rocker bolts on the intake side were only torqued to 85in/lbs (dont ask why, my buddy put them on) turns out in the manual, ur supposed to tighten them to 250!!! so yeah, reset in the intake rocker and rebolted it and the idle is @ 800RPM and no needle twitching!!

Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 4:59 pm
by CA180
correct me if i'm wrong... but you havve an r/t right? that would be why the magnum cam is already in there

SXT??? but it has a mag cam!

Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 5:08 pm
by SiberianNeon0
notta...I have an SXT...doesn't it look like an R/T though?! This is used and I bought it with the stripes on it. :o

Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 9:05 pm
by OB
whew that mistake could have cost you big bucks! u already had a mag cam? strange.