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What is your OIL PSI @ IDLE
Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 6:39 pm
by GTS
Well lately i've been hearing quite a bit of knocking and pinging noise from the engine. Now it could be one of two things.
1. Bad 87 Ocatane Gas (Shell or FJ)
2. Worn pistons and excesive knock.
when the engine is under load sometimes you can hear it very clearly. At the top gear if i step on the gas i can hear it ver well.
My Oil PSI at Idle is 20PSI does that sound about right.
Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 9:00 pm
by Diablo0
Is it 20psi at warm or cold? I can let you know tomorrow what mine is at cold and warm when I'm in it for 6 hours lol
Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 9:39 pm
by GTS
Well mine at cold i think is around 30PSI and when the car warms up the oil gets thinner I guess and it drops to ~20PSI.
It used to hold ~60PSI at highway speed ~3000RPM and now it seems like its around 50ish. So i wonder if the motor is getting worn out and I am hearing the piston slap more and more or if its just a bad gas that makes the knocking noise.
Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 9:44 pm
by Diablo0
Reports online look to be
Cold Idle: 50 psi
Cold 3000 RPM: 80 psi
Warm idle: 25 psi
Warm 3000 rpm: 50 psi
Last I looked mine was at that, I'll doubt check it tomorrow. I just look at my gauge now and recognize where it's usually is and dont' really take note of the actual PSI.
Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 9:48 pm
by fixitmattman
20lbs at warm idle is more than fine.
Has it been getting colder in Chicago lately? I know it's gotten colder up here again and my car's back to the same old cold neon clickity clack again.
Matt
Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 9:59 pm
by GTS
Damn Cold 3000RPM is at 80PSI holy cow I've never seen my gauge past 60 or 65. Wow my engine must be worn out then or the freaking gauge is messed up.
I think I read somewhere that the oil system has a pressure relief valve that opens at 60PSI and thats why I figured my gauge reading 60 should be alright.
BTW what Oil are you guys running. I am on MOBIL 1 5W30 every 5000miles.
fixitmattman wrote:20lbs at warm idle is more than fine.
Has it been getting colder in Chicago lately? I know it's gotten colder up here again and my car's back to the same old cold neon clickity clack again.
Matt
Ohhh man I get that when it gets cooler on every cold start up. This morning it was around 50 and i heard it it was light but i can tell its there.
I will try some 93 Gas tomorrow and see if the ticking is still there and if its not then I will not its not the motor however if it is still there then i guess its just a bad piston slap. Hmmm I may have to look into an SRT swap or something.
Posted: Wed Sep 20, 2006 7:32 am
by GTS
First impressions I filled up with some 93 Gas this morning and I am not sure yet but the ticking seems to be gone so my conclusion so far is shell sells very bad gas. I've never had it detonate that bad. So no more shell fo me.
Posted: Thu Sep 21, 2006 7:32 pm
by Diablo0
Idle:
Approx 3000RPM:
Posted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 12:28 am
by Kevin_GP
Mine oil psi did the same thing then my oil sender took a poo. It was reading pretty low, then all the sudden crusing at 3,000 rpms was at 70 or 80, then my gauge started to cut in and out, went to start it the next morning and my gauge no longer worked. Now I have a mechanical oil psi gauge and braided line waiting to be installed
Cant help you on the denation thing though.
Posted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 9:30 am
by c2k
ricer w/ the ricer gauge lol
u shoulda gotten the mechical cuz it s wayyyyyyyyyyy much more accurate.
engine cold cold 75psi @ idle, engine warm 25psi @ idle
Posted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 9:40 am
by oklamopar
Diablo0 wrote:Reports online look to be
Cold Idle: 50 psi
Cold 3000 RPM: 80 psi
Warm idle: 25 psi
Warm 3000 rpm: 50 psi
Last I looked mine was at that, I'll doubt check it tomorrow. I just look at my gauge now and recognize where it's usually is and dont' really take note of the actual PSI.
That's what mine does.... Im only a 35k though
cas. 5w30 every 1500 miles
Posted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 12:52 pm
by FTWNeon
Mines about the same
Posted: Tue Oct 03, 2006 4:13 pm
by grambo
Canuck_2k wrote:ricer w/ the ricer gauge lol
u shoulda gotten the mechical cuz it s wayyyyyyyyyyy much more accurate.
engine cold cold 75psi @ idle, engine warm 25psi @ idle
Some of us don't want a potential hydraulic leak inside our cars...
Posted: Thu Oct 05, 2006 8:31 pm
by soul_sword34
grambo wrote:Canuck_2k wrote:ricer w/ the ricer gauge lol
u shoulda gotten the mechical cuz it s wayyyyyyyyyyy much more accurate.
engine cold cold 75psi @ idle, engine warm 25psi @ idle
Some of us don't want a potential hydraulic leak inside our cars...
I've been around mechanical pressure gauges all my life and have never seen a drop of leaking fluid. Well just once but that was because my buddy used white teflon tape instead of yellow.
Posted: Fri Oct 06, 2006 10:14 am
by grambo
Oh thats true. Yellow FTW!!! haha Yeah pops has been building drag cars and hot rods since before I was a twitch in his wang. He never had a problem either.
Where I have had problems is at work on 900KW Waukesha generators and 350KW Caterpillars...I've lost two hydraulic guages on their monitoring panels and that gets really messy inside a control room...not good at all...
I whole heartedly agree with the "better" readings from hydraulics though they are WAY more precise than an ohm reading from an electrical unit.
Generally speaking though, on a NEON, we are looking for a complete failure so we can shut the car down an save our 2.0's. Anything below 25psi and my shit is parked. Anything above 75 psi and my rev limiter has prolly failed and I'm goin' for broke trying to beat somebody at the track.....haha
Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 11:05 pm
by 02SRT-4Swap
cold idle : 60 psi
cold 3000rpm : 80 psi
warm idle : 30 psi
warm 3000rpm : 70 psi