Oil Pressure...Too HIGH???

kornholio788 · Post by **kornholio788** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 2:28 pm

ok i just installed a Faze electric oil pressure gague in my car. And i started the car up for the first time witht the gauge installed and it read about 62 psi. Now i looked it up and supposedly it is supposed to be like 50 and it is def. not 50. when i rev it to 3k while still cold it reads about 80 which from what i have read it right. Now i have a 2000 Dodge. Is there something wrong. I didnt notice any leaks and i know everything is hooked up right. IS ther something wrong yes/no and if there is what would it be and how can i fix it. I am taking about a 4 hour trip tomarro so if something is wrong PLEASE TELL ME lol.

........If this isnt in the right spot im sorry didnt really know which forums to put it in

Thanks alot

Dan

Post by **racer12306** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 2:44 pm

according to Joe (teamliviD) faze gauges are junk.

so maybe its the gauge. unless you have a high pressure oil pump there is no reason for the pressure to be that high. i guess it should be asked, what kind of oil are you running?

fixitmattman · Post by **fixitmattman** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 2:50 pm

Cold oil = high pressure until it warms up. Sounds normal to me for cold oil just after startup. I bet on your 4 hour trip at the temps we've been having lately it would probably drop down past 30 once the oil gets nice and warm.

On the same engine I've seen the pressure spike to 90lbs when freezing cold and cold start up/high idle and watch it drop to about 10 when it gets really warm and working.

kornholio788 · Post by **kornholio788** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 7:04 pm

alright well i installed the volts gauge too and took it for a ride. Well cold start she is still at like 62 and not 50. At stop lights i am about 50 and sometime it would jump to like 35-40. At normal driving rpms i am at a constant 50. I think these gauges are junk cuz the oil psi like is jumpy the needle that is and the volts gauge the needle is like vibrating and it is only reading like 13.75-14 volts. And i had a cheepo advanced auto sunpro gauge that worked great that would read like 14-15 and wasnt jumpy and didnt vibrate. These gauges are like 40 bucks a pop WHY DO THEY SUCK

quicksilvr · Post by **quicksilvr** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 7:47 pm

kornholio788 wrote: These gauges are like 40 bucks a pop WHY DO THEY SUCK

Cause good gauges are $100> a pop....

kornholio788 · Post by **kornholio788** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 7:56 pm

quicksilvr wrote:Cause good gauges are $100> a pop....

well the autometers can be had for like 60-70 and i did alot of research on these and i have read alot of good about them. Neoncanada.com seems to love them and they have nothing bad to say about them. I emailed faze about all the stuff and i will see what they say. Supposedly Faze has EXCELLENT customer service

Neon316 · Post by **Neon316** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 8:20 pm

autometer is really good.....i got them in my 97 acr......i bought a cheap brand for my 2000 called equis or something....i find them just as good as the autometer for half the price....i run a volt gauge and oil pressure....

Post by **racer12306** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 10:19 pm

you dont have to spend a lot of money on gauges to get a good one. you just have to know which cheap ones to buy. same thing goes for damn near any other part too.

kornholio788 · Post by **kornholio788** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 11:05 pm

Ok well things have changed a little since the last post. Some good some bad. Well when i am at a stop and idling warm my pressure gauge says im at about 39. So that is lower than before but not as low as i should be. And at 2-3k rpm it is at 75. What the hell is going on i hope faze returns my email cuz this thing is fucked up. And what are some other cheap gauges

Post by **racer12306** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 11:12 pm

check out www.summitracing.com they have a lot of stuff. another place to check is www.jegs.com they have a little different selection than summit but a lot of stuff.

Post by **jonnymopar** » Fri Mar 02, 2007 12:04 am

Oil pressure for these cars (and almost all Dodge 4-cylinders made within the past 20+ years) goes like this:

If you have at least 7psi minimum per 1000rpm, then you're set. As in, you should have, at the very least, 7psi at idle and around 46psi minimum at redline (6500rpm). Those are minimums only. As long as you're past that, you're ok.

I've read this whole thread and I haven't seen one number that was out of the ordinary. When I'm driving my car dead cold during the winter time, I get about 75psi at 3000rpm. The oil is thicker when it's colder, yet at 3000rpm, your oil pump is spinning at the same speed regardless of whether your car is warm or not. What do you get when you move thicker fluid at the same rate? Higher pressure. Again, all the numbers you've posted in this thread so far only tell me one thing, and that is your car has a healthy motor and there's nothing to worry about.

Faze gauges, yeah, they're kinda crappy, but even crappy gauges will at least give you a ballpark estimate. Personally, I'm all Autometer, but to each his own. I do find it hard to believe that your gauge is screwed up because all those numbers are normal.

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Fri Mar 02, 2007 6:02 am

I've read this whole thread and I haven't seen one number that was out of the ordinary. When I'm driving my car dead cold during the winter time, I get about 75psi at 3000rpm. The oil is thicker when it's colder, yet at 3000rpm, your oil pump is spinning at the same speed regardless of whether your car is warm or not. What do you get when you move thicker fluid at the same rate? Higher pressure. Again, all the numbers you've posted in this thread so far only tell me one thing, and that is your car has a healthy motor and there's nothing to worry about.

I agree also, using a mechanical autometer gauge and 5-30w RoyalPurple my car has:
75-80psi cold pressure at idle
30psi hot idle
60psi cruising at 60mph at 3krpm hot
As mentioned before, it sounds like your motor is healthy internally but the gauge itself is off. When it comes to gauges you get what you payed for. Ive always used AutoMeter brand (not there cheapo line) and with there new guages I never had any issues.

kornholio788 · Post by **kornholio788** » Sat Mar 03, 2007 12:42 pm

Alright well thanks alot guy excpecially johnnymopar and black rose. I think i am just going to go with the autometer NV style gauges cuz i dont these are all that good. And ya i figured my engine is good cuz it only has like 50k on it and it i do all the maintenence all the time so it gets done thanks alot guys

Dan

Post by **jonnymopar** » Sat Mar 03, 2007 1:39 pm

kornholio788 wrote:Alright well thanks alot guy excpecially johnnymopar and black rose. I think i am just going to go with the autometer NV style gauges cuz i dont these are all that good. And ya i figured my engine is good cuz it only has like 50k on it and it i do all the maintenence all the time so it gets done thanks alot guys

Dan

Nice choice, the NV gauges are pretty cool looking. I've got a Phantom II series oil pressure in my Neon and Z-Series oil pressure, air/fuel, and EGT in my Daytona (plus a stock SRT-4 boost gauge, but even that's Autometer).

Damn 50k miles on a 2000? She's well preserved. I've got 67k on my 2003, 40k of which have been put on in the last 18 months alone!

kornholio788 · Post by **kornholio788** » Sun Mar 04, 2007 10:38 pm

jonnymopar wrote:Nice choice, the NV gauges are pretty cool looking. I've got a Phantom II series oil pressure in my Neon and Z-Series oil pressure, air/fuel, and EGT in my Daytona (plus a stock SRT-4 boost gauge, but even that's Autometer).

Damn 50k miles on a 2000? She's well preserved. I've got 67k on my 2003, 40k of which have been put on in the last 18 months alone!

well see my gpa drove it to the bar and back and taht was it lol so ya lol