Radiator Flush

latief · Post by **latief** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 10:48 am

this has probably been covered multiple times (i did a search yet could not find it), but i have a few questions about it:

1. What fluid for a 2000 neon? it currently has the green stuff. what is the ratio of water to liquid?

2. How can you make sure you get all the air out of the system?

3. How do you get out all the old fluid (that is inside the engine block for example)?

4. I might change the hoses since they have more than 100,000 miles on them, any recommendations on brands?

thanks,

Post by **Diablo0** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 11:11 am

1. Mopar or Zerex G05 which can sometimes be found at Pepboys. 50/50 mix with distilled water.

2. You won't get all of it out until a few heat cycles as it pushes the air out and draws the fluid in to replace it out of the overflow tank. Try to get as much as you can though by filling it up, letting it run then if the level drops in the filler neck (radiator cap) pour some more in and keep doing until the level doesn't drop anymore... watch your temp, if it keeps rising that means you have air in system. You just have to keep topping off, wait until the thermostat opens then if it drops more, top off again...

3. You'll need to run water through the line so drain the system at the drain plug in the radiator... then with the plug still out take a garden hose and put it in the filler net and turn the water on but not too much that it squirts all over the place... fill up the system and turn the car on and let it run for awhile with the hose still on in the filler neck. That'll keep a constant flow of cool water going through your engine keeping it cool as well as clean out any loose debris and old coolant. I'd let it run awhile to see if the t-stat will open but it might not since the water might keep it cool enough not to let it open. After you're satisfied that the water thats exiting the drain cock is nice and clear... you might opt to pour some distilled water through the system while the car is still on to clean out some of the tap water. Make sense?

4. Any should do fine... either OEM or whatever your autoparts store stocks.

latief · Post by **latief** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 12:28 pm

Diablo,

Just to get the terminology clear. there are 2 cooling system related caps, one on the upper radiator hose (on the engine side), and the other one is one on the resoviour where you can see the coolant level. what exactly do you mean by the filler neck?

also, if you put a garden hose in that means water will be under pressure, wouldn't affect the water pump forcing it to work at a higher speed than it is supposed to (since the car is on)?

thanks for the great details....

Post by **racer12306** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 12:29 pm

You don't need to use the Mopar HOAT or Zerex G-05. That change wasn't made until about 2002. Therefore you can use one of the green coolants. I prefer to stay away from the all makes all models coolants unless absolutely necessary.

As far as hoses: Gates. They are the best period. I know when I hit 100,000 miles I will be putting Gates belts and hoses on my car.

latief · Post by **latief** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 12:33 pm

racer,

so you say the mopar or zerex will not work? or you mean that i don't have to use them ? what is different about these anyways?

Where do you buy Gates parts?

thanks,

Post by **racer12306** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 12:52 pm

You don't have to use them. Many people have used the Zerex G-05 in applications that call for regular green coolant and have been very happy with it.

Since there were very few changes in 2002 to allow for this coolant, I would be comfortable to use the Zerex G-05 or the Mopar Coolant in your 2000.

However the green stuff is cheaper, but in the end the costs balance out as the Zerex and Mopar are designed for a 5 year 100,000 mile service interval and the green coolant is designed for a 30,000 mile service interval.

The Zerex costs about $12/gallon, and I'm pretty sure the Mopar stuff costs about $17/gallon.

You can go here: http://www.gates.com/index.cfm?location_id=539

and find places that carry Gates products in your area.

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 2:29 pm

How long does all of this take? And where exactly is that plug on the bottom of the radiator? I looked under the car and I couldn't find it

Post by **racer12306** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 2:47 pm

This is the picture from my service manual.

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 3:08 pm

oh god that's a horrible spot. i hated working back there when i installed my tranny cooler...

how much antifreeze or mopar freeze or whatever it's called is neccessary

Post by **racer12306** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 3:20 pm

My service manual says 6.5qts, which sounds a little low to me (although I have never changed my antifreeze, so I don't know exactly)

It would be good to buy 2 gallons of antifreeze and 2 gallons of distilled water. That will make 16 qt's of 50/50 mix.

Mix 1 gallon of antifreeze and 1 gallon of water and use that first. If you don't use the other gallon then you can return it or hold on to it for future use.

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 3:24 pm

I see.....not sure how much that is but i'll stop by pep boys and see what's up on the prices. I should've payed more attention in high school with these gallon/qts business.

Are there any noticeable differences in flushing the system? Run smoother? Colder AC? Or is it all just in the head if you notice anything

Post by **racer12306** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 9:01 pm

shouldnt be any major differences, unless your car was running a little hot.

the A/C has nothing to do with the engines cooling system.

ewetho · Post by **ewetho** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 10:45 pm

I do mine like the book with just a drain and fill.

I opened the drain and let it suck the coolant over flow dry and them opened the Radiator Cap (not the over flow cap) whichis on the upper hose and let it drain till it stopped.

The using a vacuum filler I filled the system with Amsoil ANT coolant mixed 50/50 with Distilled Water. Then topped of the overflow bottle. All is well.

Most of the Anti-Freeze/Coolants are Ethylene Glycol with the new extended drain interval stuff having Organic Acid Technology or the Hybrid OAT to maintain long term chemistry. Now what I added is Propylene Glycol which is not recommended according to the Owners Manual is not as good but after much investigation seems it sooooo close it should be fine. They said cooling issue not chemistry. So not as efficient cooling but the numbers are VERY VERY close and seems to actually be a bit better for Propylene in some characteristics. Not worried about it. Not running any hotter.

Midnight_Rider · Post by **Midnight_Rider** » Tue Sep 25, 2007 1:26 am

My mechanic does a flush and fill every other Fall, plus a new thermostat.

fixitmattman · Post by **fixitmattman** » Tue Sep 25, 2007 1:43 am

Last flush I did I just used some universal long life junk. Works with green and OEM orange coolants so the bottle said. Compatibility was key as I just did a dump and fill. Ran a tad hotter than before (maybe a needle width), but I also went from 50/50 mix to at least a 60/40 because I needed the added freezing protection.

latief · Post by **latief** » Tue Sep 25, 2007 8:27 am

I really want to clean it out, any dangers using the garden hose? say the water pump being overworked for example?

Paul56 · Post by **Paul56** » Tue Sep 25, 2007 12:00 pm

latief wrote:I really want to clean it out, any dangers using the garden hose? say the water pump being overworked for example?

I'm not certain one could actually overwork the water pump from an increased flow of water given that it is driven directly from the timing belt... it will only rotate as fast as the belt is driving it so the water will just get backed up.

ewetho · Post by **ewetho** » Tue Sep 25, 2007 6:46 pm

Have seen flushes done with the drain on the radiator wide open and the cap off with the hose over flowing for quite a while to get it clear up.

Then flush and fill again with regular coolant.

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Tue Sep 25, 2007 7:58 pm

Once there is a good post on how to do an engine flush, i'll probably post it into the How To section....but for now its going to lay here...

Paul56 · Post by **Paul56** » Tue Sep 25, 2007 8:58 pm

There is a good writeup in the Haynes manual about flushing.

The key to a thorough flushing is removing the thermostat.

King Crab · Post by **King Crab** » Wed Sep 26, 2007 12:26 am

would their be any disadvantages in running 100% coolant?

Post by **racer12306** » Wed Sep 26, 2007 12:28 am

yes, that is extremely bad. i can't remember why but i know i read that a few times.

you need to have water in there. minimum mix i believe is 60% antifreeze and 40% water, or maybe its 70/30. but typically the mix is 50/50.

jphillips · Post by **jphillips** » Wed Sep 26, 2007 1:35 pm

the A/C has nothing to do with the engines cooling system.

doesn't the evap or cendensor run through the radiator?[/list]

Post by **racer12306** » Wed Sep 26, 2007 1:38 pm

No

The A/C and the engine cooling system are completely independant of each other. I believe it used to be that cars with A/C had bigger radiators, but now I think they use the same size radiator for both.