Block prepping - What would you recommend for turbo?

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01NeonSnooZer
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Block prepping - What would you recommend for turbo?

Post by 01NeonSnooZer » Tue Oct 02, 2007 8:55 pm

I was wondering what kind of block prep can be done to get a better turbo engine. Is there anything in terms of machine work that ill, say, aid in more efficient oiling or make the block less prone to cracking? Does anyone offer a reinforce bedplate for these motors to make em withstand more boost?
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jckevns
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Post by jckevns » Tue Oct 02, 2007 9:59 pm

get some forged rods and some low comp pistons. Get oversized pistons and have the block bored accordingly this will leave the cylender walls nice and smooth
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01NeonSnooZer
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Post by 01NeonSnooZer » Tue Oct 02, 2007 10:15 pm

I know al that. I was wanting some info on preveting cracks in the block, webbing damage, aid in oil return and circulation and even help heat tranfer so it doesn't run hot. If I take too much out of the cylinders, it doesn't heat transfer as well and it runs hotter than usual. I'm also looking for little tidbits on beefing up the bottom end in these engines. I know how to do so in engines that have individual main caps but the bedplate leaves me with no Idea how to beef up the bottom end. I need info on something like a thicker or hardened bedplate.
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Post by Floyd » Tue Oct 02, 2007 10:28 pm

unless your hoping to get 500 horse out of your car it will be fine...
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Post by 01NeonSnooZer » Tue Oct 02, 2007 10:47 pm

I am planning a 2.4 build of about that power lvl, yea. I just don't wanna start on it until I have a little more info. I'm buying either an '88 Shadow ES or an '86 Omni and I wanna do either a 2.4t swap for it or a 2.2 neon Hybrid motor for it. It ain't gona take corners, either. I wanna try my hand at a FWD Drag car.
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Post by 00element10 » Wed Oct 03, 2007 9:55 am

bore out the cylinders as little as possible, the thicker the walls are the stronger they are, If you're dead set on strengthening the block, and you're going to be using it as a drag car only you could look into things like block filler to strenthen stuff, they've been doing it on V8 cars forever.

Fill the oil and coolant passages down low if you're serious about it, You dont need to have a super duper cooling system if you're car's going down the track once and then getting shut off.

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Post by Jamie » Wed Oct 03, 2007 10:05 am

what block are you working on, a 2.0 or a 2.4?

in the 2.0 the blocks are damn near bullet proof... unless you shoot a rod through it. the bedplate design is very strong. instead of individual bearing caps taking the load forces exerted on the crank you have a (thinking of the best way to describe it) the load is shared between the entire bedplate. you still have bolts where they would be on the endcaps. ok let me back up... imagine a sandwich. you have the top part of the engine with the cylinders, and the bottom part which is the bedplate. the crank sandwiched between the two using the main bearings and secured with your main bolts... also with the bedplate bolts.

this is the block and bedplate with no crank so you can see how the two halves come together to give the block its strength
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and here is how the crank would sit in the top block
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and now you can see how the bedplate sandwiches the crank into the block and provides its strength over a standard main bering cap
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I havent worked with the 2.4l so I cant speak for them... I am one of the hard headed few that want to see just how much i can get from the 2.0l

good luck with your build
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Post by MoparNeonMan » Wed Oct 03, 2007 5:12 pm

Jamie


thx much for posting that info. I am already in the design phase of building a boosted 2.0. Its intresting to see we carry a modified 4bolt main cap design. Is the rear main one or 2 piece? How far have you gotten on a build?
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Post by Jamie » Wed Oct 03, 2007 6:19 pm

no prob... hopefully someone learned something from it!

anyway all of the main caps are integrated in the bedplate, so there are no individual main caps with this design. I hope that answered your question.

my build is done, new engine is in and everything is great.

later
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01NeonSnooZer
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Post by 01NeonSnooZer » Wed Oct 03, 2007 10:18 pm

Oh man. See I thought it was more like an integrated main girdle, not part of the actual block, itself. I think the 2.4s have em, too, but I'm not sure. That's better than the chevy 6-bolt-main LS motors.

but it looks like there's a lot of casting there. I bet some of the extra could be removed to lighten, help prevent cracks and hotspots. It also seems like there's a fairly large lip where the bedplate and the block meet. I bet that could be clearanced for a stroker crank. I know Indy offers a 2.2 stroker kit.
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Post by fixitmattman » Wed Oct 03, 2007 10:41 pm

A proper rebuild with forged internals and high tensile fasteners (ARP etc) will hold more power than most neons can handle.
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01NeonSnooZer
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Post by 01NeonSnooZer » Thu Oct 04, 2007 10:31 am

What about that lip, though? Can it be clearanced for a stroker crank?
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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Sat Oct 06, 2007 8:30 am

Chevy 4 bolt mains...
6 bolts mains...
We have a 23 bolt one piece main :lol:
And yes the 2.4 motor is the same design other than it also has a balance shaft setup built in too....
And for modding the lip your talking about, there's no need unless you swap out the crankshaft, but there is no interchangeable crank for the 2.0 unless you get one specially made. And no the 2.4 crank will not work since the mains and rod journals are a different size all together...
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Post by Arro » Sat Oct 06, 2007 12:54 pm

01NeonSnooZer wrote:I am planning a 2.4 build of about that power lvl, yea. I just don't wanna start on it until I have a little more info. I'm buying either an '88 Shadow ES or an '86 Omni and I wanna do either a 2.4t swap for it or a 2.2 neon Hybrid motor for it. It ain't gona take corners, either. I wanna try my hand at a FWD Drag car.
Then you are on the wrong forum.

No offense to my 2gn brethren (and sisters too), but if you want that kinda setup, there's already a better path... the Omni chassis can hold the original 2.2 and its taller variant, the 2.5L SOHC.

They have managed to fit a DOHC 1G Neon head on the 2.2 and 2.5 family, with amazing success. The first done was in a Shadow, and with only 10psi it ran high 10 sec. 1/4 mile.

The Chrysler 2.5L Turbo block is already plumbed for the oil return, the block is beefy, with cross-drilling for better cooling, and the bottom ends are very buildable. There is no way in hell I would waste my time with a Neon bottom end in an older Chrysler when the 2.5L bottom end can be built to be bullet-proof. I've seen them with CAST internals run stupid-fast and put down well over 300hp to the wheels on dyno runs, and forged internal engines do even more.

And those were with the native SOHC head. So imagine the neon swap head.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106

Complete with pictures.

Also here's one with the 2.4L DOHC head on a 2.5L oldschool turbo bottom end:

http://www.relentlessracing.com/main.htm

Note the dyno chart.

While you're there, check out the SOHC offerings, many with dyno charts well into the mid-to-high 300 whp range.

It's been done. 2.5 liters. DOHC. POWERFUL. Go knock yourself out ;)
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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Sat Oct 06, 2007 1:28 pm

^^^
I remember those days...
How about the T2 shelby charger that was converted to RWD, then they did the DOHC hybrid setup and gained almost 100hp :shock:
sorry this went off topic :lol:
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Post by Arro » Sat Oct 06, 2007 1:58 pm

yes, Brother BlackRose, we must remember our roots :P
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01NeonSnooZer
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Post by 01NeonSnooZer » Sat Oct 06, 2007 6:44 pm

Trust me. I was into TDs before I was into neons. That is the same Neon Hybrid I was talking about. that's what they call a 2.2/2.5 with a DOHC Neon head on it. I'm aither gonna do that or a 2.4. I just wanted to know if I could cut a corner by notching that lip and using an SRT-4 Crank.

And Indy DOES make a stroker kit for the 2.0. You don't haveto have the crank custom made. Go to http://indyhe.fatcow.com/sitebuildercon ... 7Racer.pdf. This is the price list on IndyHeads.com. Look at page 8, there's a bunch of stuff. The stroker crank by itself is $700 but you can buy a complete 2.2 stroker neon motor for $7K.

I think you could do your own cheaper though. Just get the stoker crank (3.543") and a set of rods (5.472") and they can be whatever rods you want as long as they have the 1.889" big bore rod end and .827" small bore rod end (wrist pin). I'm sure you can use whatever pistons you want to make yourself a boosted 2.2 neon motor.

I wanna do something like that or put a 2.4 crank in the 2.0 block or something.

As far as TDs go. I'm On TurboDodge, TurboMopar and BoostedMopar. I'm tryin to buy a TII power ES 4 door '88 Shadow. havung some unforseen funancial difficulties right now, though.

Love the pics of the RWD TIII, BTW.
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