New...ish Motorm

flhmfd · Post by **flhmfd** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 10:21 pm

my timing belt went so im getting a new motor...i shop around me has an r/t motor (apprently) with 70,000 km's on it...im having that swapped in right now...

is there anyway to distinquish visually between a stock and an r/t motor, because the way my lucks been going i just get worried its gonna be stock or something

and what sort of maintainence should i give the motor when i get it back?

NiteHawk · Post by **NiteHawk** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 11:48 pm

first dead giveaway is the intake manifold

the r/t has a metal intake manifold, natural aluminum in color...if you see plastic, you got burned...

also i think the r/t has a metal valve cover. i know all NON magnums have plastic.

i would highly suggest only using synthetic oil. other than that, there's no differance between the magnum and non magnum as far as maintainance procedures...

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Thu Oct 25, 2007 12:14 am

I know magnum uses a different octane...so prepare for more expensive gas

NiteHawk · Post by **NiteHawk** » Thu Oct 25, 2007 12:43 am

not if you already run it, lol...

i've used 93 since the day i bought my sxt...i cant run 87, the car doesnt run right on it...go figure

silverneontuner · Post by **silverneontuner** » Thu Oct 25, 2007 1:55 am

a true r/t engine with have "R/T" etched into the cylunder head on the passeanger side.

Crashin · Post by **Crashin** » Thu Oct 25, 2007 9:29 am

Adionik wrote:I know magnum uses a different octane...so prepare for more expensive gas

I believe the main reason you need to run premium fuel with a mag motor is because of the advanced timing from the PCM. If he's running his stock PCM he'd probably be fine with regular fuel if he wanted to switch back. I ran regular after I did the mag swap before I got my afx/r and never had any issues.

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Thu Oct 25, 2007 9:44 am

The only difference I ever noticed in premium gas opposed to Unleaded was my money flowing quicker....=\

But that's when i was completely stock. I doubt I could benefit any better now

60trim · Post by **60trim** » Thu Oct 25, 2007 10:29 am

Why are you replacing the motor? Did you create a hole in one of your pistons? You can just get new valves in the head,check the valve guides, ect rather than geting a new motor.

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Oct 25, 2007 12:30 pm

silverneontuner wrote:a true r/t engine with have "R/T" etched into the cylunder head on the passeanger side.

Actually the "R/T" is cast into the end. but I don't recall which side. the intake manifold should look like the one in this thread.
http://forum.2gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=25 ... =head+pics

Edit: Um I guess it's the Passenger side.

03blackrt · Post by **03blackrt** » Thu Oct 25, 2007 12:35 pm

the "R/T" is cast where the water neck/ thermostat housing attaches.

flhmfd · Post by **flhmfd** » Thu Oct 25, 2007 5:49 pm

60trim wrote:Why are you replacing the motor? Did you create a hole in one of your pistons? You can just get new valves in the head,check the valve guides, ect rather than geting a new motor.

yeah but the block had like 160 000 kms on it, wanted something fresh... just wanted less worry.

new question...how are the motors different from year to year...i heard the 01' was better and the 02+ had issues when using aftermarket throttlebodies and stuff...gettin CEL's

kc2005ptgt · Post by **kc2005ptgt** » Fri Oct 26, 2007 3:28 pm

no, 02 has the dreaded misfire code on lightweight udp's, the 01 had a better, more aggressive cam, 03 I think, has the 60mm tb problem.

And are you getting just a block, or just a head, or both?