Oil Filter Comparison
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Oil Filter Comparison
This is going to be an on going tread. I currently have a Mopar, Fram and Supertech filter in both the standard and larger (aka Viper Filter) size. I have a Purolator Premium Plus in the larger size at my parents that will be cut open, and I plan on getting a standard size Purolator Premium Plus, as well as the Advance Auto house brand in both sizes.
I was only able to cut open the larger Fram (PH16) and large Mopar (MO-090) today. Then the cutoff wheel was all worn down by 3/4 of the way through the large Supertech (ST16) filter.
I am going to try take the filter media apart to get an area of filtering media.
Feel free to comment, ask me questions about what is here and talk about these pictures.
Here are the pics...
Fram PH16
Filter Baseplate
Baseplate with seal
Filter Media
Bypass Valve
Assembled without shell
Mopar MO-090
(The one on the right)
Filter Baseplate
Filter Media/Canister
Filter Media/Canister with seal
Misc part that I honestly don't know what it does, I would assume it takes up tolerances.
Assembled without shell
I am open to cracking open other filters, however this would be very expensive on my part. I do not have that much extra money. If you have a particular filter you would like me to take apart send me a PM and we can work something out.
Disclaimer: I am just posting this for informational purposes. It is your responsibility to make your own conclusions about this information.
I was only able to cut open the larger Fram (PH16) and large Mopar (MO-090) today. Then the cutoff wheel was all worn down by 3/4 of the way through the large Supertech (ST16) filter.
I am going to try take the filter media apart to get an area of filtering media.
Feel free to comment, ask me questions about what is here and talk about these pictures.
Here are the pics...
Fram PH16
Filter Baseplate
Baseplate with seal
Filter Media
Bypass Valve
Assembled without shell
Mopar MO-090
(The one on the right)
Filter Baseplate
Filter Media/Canister
Filter Media/Canister with seal
Misc part that I honestly don't know what it does, I would assume it takes up tolerances.
Assembled without shell
I am open to cracking open other filters, however this would be very expensive on my part. I do not have that much extra money. If you have a particular filter you would like me to take apart send me a PM and we can work something out.
Disclaimer: I am just posting this for informational purposes. It is your responsibility to make your own conclusions about this information.
-Frank
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- BlackRoseRacing
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^^^Mopar FTW!
Only until recently, Mopar filters used to be Fram and thats why I stopped using them. Now it seems the latest Mopar 1090's look very similar to Purolator.
Damn, it also looks like that major oil filter website update this year....
http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/oi ... index.html
It seems after all these years the owner finally updated that website....
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Figures, guess this is all pointless now.
But if there is a filter that someone doesn't see on that site let me know if you want it disassembled and we can work something out.
But if there is a filter that someone doesn't see on that site let me know if you want it disassembled and we can work something out.
-Frank
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- fixitmattman
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Well, from another forum something along the same lines as this post came up (back in the day). As a result I decided to hack up a USED Fram oil filter to see how it really stands up. So here it is:
Car: 2000 Chrysler Neon LE, 2.0L SOHC (Non-magnum)
Milage on filter: 9163 km ~ 5693mi (interval is 10 000km)
Oil: Walmart Tech 2000 5w30
Driving: Back country roads between cities, light/moderate acclerations, occaisional high RPM spirited driving. Cold winter starts to warmer spring days.
Filter: Fram PH3614
The filter off of the car:
Looks like when I put it on, only now it's covered in dirty oil:
A lot of people like to complain the anti-drain back valves fail on these filters. This one obviously works fine, lots of oil left in there that didn't drain back:
First look inside, so far I see no death or destruction:
This would be the metal comb that holds the two ends of the element together. It just fell out, but upon inspection you could see where I hit it with the hack saw while cutting open the filter:
Blind end cap with ant-drain back valve, looks in good shape:
Another common complaint, cardboard ant-drainback valves. This one is plastic and metal, still fully functional:
First look at filter element:
Pulled it out of the threaded end. The rubber sealing grommet came off quite easily, but it was still attached. Doesn't really matter either way as it's a compression seal anyways:
Time to tear into the element.
Another common complaint, the cardboard end caps don't hold up. Yup, they're some sort of cardboard/fiber material, but they were plenty firm. It actually took a bit of effort to rip it apart. Looks like they use an epoxie, or some other sort of glue to attach it to the element. The glue never let go, it ripped the element first:
Now the element itself. It's dirty, but not to a level that's concerning. If you've ever changed an element oil filter (as opposed to this canister style) you'll probably agree this isn't in too bad shape at all:
And lastly the threaded end. Looks pretty solid:
Car: 2000 Chrysler Neon LE, 2.0L SOHC (Non-magnum)
Milage on filter: 9163 km ~ 5693mi (interval is 10 000km)
Oil: Walmart Tech 2000 5w30
Driving: Back country roads between cities, light/moderate acclerations, occaisional high RPM spirited driving. Cold winter starts to warmer spring days.
Filter: Fram PH3614
The filter off of the car:
Looks like when I put it on, only now it's covered in dirty oil:
A lot of people like to complain the anti-drain back valves fail on these filters. This one obviously works fine, lots of oil left in there that didn't drain back:
First look inside, so far I see no death or destruction:
This would be the metal comb that holds the two ends of the element together. It just fell out, but upon inspection you could see where I hit it with the hack saw while cutting open the filter:
Blind end cap with ant-drain back valve, looks in good shape:
Another common complaint, cardboard ant-drainback valves. This one is plastic and metal, still fully functional:
First look at filter element:
Pulled it out of the threaded end. The rubber sealing grommet came off quite easily, but it was still attached. Doesn't really matter either way as it's a compression seal anyways:
Time to tear into the element.
Another common complaint, the cardboard end caps don't hold up. Yup, they're some sort of cardboard/fiber material, but they were plenty firm. It actually took a bit of effort to rip it apart. Looks like they use an epoxie, or some other sort of glue to attach it to the element. The glue never let go, it ripped the element first:
Now the element itself. It's dirty, but not to a level that's concerning. If you've ever changed an element oil filter (as opposed to this canister style) you'll probably agree this isn't in too bad shape at all:
And lastly the threaded end. Looks pretty solid:
http://www.cardomain.com/profile/fixitmattman
How to fix your car:
1. Buy a Haynes manual
2. Read Haynes maual
3. Read and search appropriate threads, trust us, it's been covered before
4. Fix car
5. Consume beer of job well done
How to fix your car:
1. Buy a Haynes manual
2. Read Haynes maual
3. Read and search appropriate threads, trust us, it's been covered before
4. Fix car
5. Consume beer of job well done
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I thought I had remembered seeing pictures like that somewhere. Thanks for posting them.
-Frank
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Well yesterday I did an oil change again, and I decided to tear apart my filter.
Oil used- Penz. Platinum 5W-30
Filter- Purolator Pure One PL10241
Miles driven on this filter- 4500
I used a dremel to cut it open. Cutting disk is still about 95% good.
Lots of oil still in it, even after I attemped to drain it upside down
First pull apart
Bottom half of the canister.
With some red seal still on the filter
It feels rubbery, and is still in great shape.
The filter itself. Has a paperish feel to it, but is still very strong.
I could not rip the two ends apart, so I just took the metal piece off that holds the two ends of the element together, and then tore some of the filter material off. It was pretty tough.
The valve on the bottom inside the filter element still looks strong, and still has plenty of closing force. I beleive this is the bypass valve, but I really don't know.
Top outside
Overall it seems like it's a pretty good filter, and I will continue using them. I have been since I bought the car at 30,000 miles (51000 current), and they never gave me problems.
Oil used- Penz. Platinum 5W-30
Filter- Purolator Pure One PL10241
Miles driven on this filter- 4500
I used a dremel to cut it open. Cutting disk is still about 95% good.
Lots of oil still in it, even after I attemped to drain it upside down
First pull apart
Bottom half of the canister.
With some red seal still on the filter
It feels rubbery, and is still in great shape.
The filter itself. Has a paperish feel to it, but is still very strong.
I could not rip the two ends apart, so I just took the metal piece off that holds the two ends of the element together, and then tore some of the filter material off. It was pretty tough.
The valve on the bottom inside the filter element still looks strong, and still has plenty of closing force. I beleive this is the bypass valve, but I really don't know.
Top outside
Overall it seems like it's a pretty good filter, and I will continue using them. I have been since I bought the car at 30,000 miles (51000 current), and they never gave me problems.
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They are good filters, just a little pricey imo. There are filters that are just as good but cost half the money.
-Frank
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I used to run 5W-30 year-round, yes. Then I found the 0W-30, and used it in the winter and the 5W-30 in the summer... THEN I found the data sheets for the different Mobil1 products, and saw that the 0W-30 was obviously a bit more liquid at start-up than the 5W-30... but what surprised me was the 0W-30 was ALSO SLIGHTLY THICKER than the 5W-30 at operating temp (I think it was like a visc. rating of 8.1 vs. 8.0... the higher number being thicker).... so now, I just stick with the 0W-30 year-round, especially now since they started selling it the 5-qt jugs at WalMart for $20.... used to only find it at parts stores in the specialty oil aisle for $6.50 a qt.
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4.5qts with the standard filter
5qts with the fat filter
5qts with the fat filter
-Frank
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- non-magnum
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I found some pics but forgot where I found it. Some guys did a really nice job and cut all of those major brands on the market open. They pretty much explain everythng:
It's pretty clear that some of the filter brand use super cheap material like Fram. And K&N, Mobil and PureOne are very similar in the appearances.
It's pretty clear that some of the filter brand use super cheap material like Fram. And K&N, Mobil and PureOne are very similar in the appearances.
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- AZombiesMinge
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I know this an old thread, just thought I would share my opinion. It seems that there are some very real differences between filters. I am going to continue to use K&N for two reasons, 1- I like the way they are built and the materials they use, 2- I LOVE the ability to take off with wrench instead of filter wrench. That little nub is like the best thing to ever happen to filter in my opinion.
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I'm not trying to say the K&N is a bad filter, but it is way too expensive.
Most of the time I can take the filter off by hand. You don't need to hulk it on there.
Most of the time I can take the filter off by hand. You don't need to hulk it on there.
-Frank
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- AZombiesMinge
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Very true, I agree that they are too expensive. I don't mind paying a little more for convenience though. I have had to put a screwdriver through way to many filter to remove and I also like the look. The white adds to clean look of the engine. It's all about personal preference I guess. But I do wish they were a little cheaper though since they are only on there for a few months at a time. You can get them for less if you buy in bulk online, as opposed to at the parts store.racer12306 wrote:I'm not trying to say the K&N is a bad filter, but it is way too expensive.
Most of the time I can take the filter off by hand. You don't need to hulk it on there.
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There are a lot of products we never know about in the States. Heck, there is stuff we don't know about from state to state.
Bill
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Never heard of that brand but it must be premium with a name like that
It's probably just a quick lube version of a Fram. When you change the oil take a pic of the base plate and we can probably identify it.
It's probably just a quick lube version of a Fram. When you change the oil take a pic of the base plate and we can probably identify it.
-Frank
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