2GN.ORG

So I was at the local junk yard today and I found a bunch of first gens (like usual) and surprisingly a (1) second gen. The second gen was pretty much gutted of good stuff, including a trunk lid carpet . I may put together a small for sale thread with a couple of the things I was able to grab.

Anyway, I digress. I found what looked to be some "After Market" spark plug wires from one of the first gens. First off, would these work on my second gen? If so would they be better than the stock wiring? It says "Max Protection, Beiden Premium 7mm Cable, SAE Class F, OG" on the side of the wire.

If the wires are off a 96-99, then yes, they will work.

By what you posted off the wires, they don't sound like anything spectacular. The trouble is you don't know what condition the wires are in. They may be in worse shape than what you have now even if they look fine on the outside.

Well I pulled them straight off the engine. How can I tell if their bad or not?

With an ohmmeter.

http://www.tpub.com/basae/48.htm

Ok, now lets say everything is peachy and the wires are good. Are they thicker than the stock wiring? Will they make any difference what so ever if I swap them out?

Thicker usually means "better" insulation, but they would only be an improvement if they deliver more spark energy than your current wires, and if that energy is actually needed. Otherwise you're just wearing out the plugs faster. If they have less resistance than your current ones, try them out and judge for yourself, if it seems any better. If your gas mileage improves then they have some benefit. If not, then you got practice changing plug wires!

occasional demons wrote:If not, then you got practice changing plug wires!

LOL! Which is easier that I thought. When I pulled them out of the engine at the junk yard I though I was going to have to give them hell, but they just came out with a small "pop". Now what I need practice with is changing the plugs them selves. Can someone give me a quick crash course on how to do that?

5/8" sparkplug socket, 3/8 drive ratchet and extension for tools. Engine cold. Remove spark plug, turning ratchet counterclockwise. Check threads for any aluminum that may have come off your head. Hopefully none! Apply some anti-seize to the threads of the new plug. Just enough to coat them! Insert plug into the socket and start it into the hole by hand as far as you can get it to go turning clockwise. Then snug up with the ratchet. don't go overboard tightening it. Repeat three more times!

Sounds simple enough. What about gapping the plug? And what is "Anti-seize"?

I could have swore that I responded to something like this not too long ago. However, I can not find it. It went something like this:

Anything thicker than stock wires are not needed. We ran either 8 or 8.8mm wires on our race car. We were restricted to this size because of the magneto cap. This engine makes in the area of 500whp and burns methanol (harder to burn than gas). Thus, any wire will fire our little engines, its just a matter of the quality for life. I currently have Accels because I was ordering from Summit anyways. They have been on for 25000 miles, or maybe longer, I can't remember. They are still working good.

Get a plug gapper at your local parts store, to check the gap. The wire type is preffered. Anti-seize is a paste that's basically aluminum or copper powder, depending on the type, combined with a lube of some kind. It coats the threads to prevent the sparkplugs and your cyl. head from becoming one peice.

How big is the gap supposed to be for Neons?

.035

What about spark plugs that say they don't require gapping? I was thinking about getting these:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDeta ... 60&PTSet=A

Sounds like insane overkill... but at that point, you would not need to gap the plugs unless the gap closed somehow... (yup, that can still happen if you drop the box)

The bosch copper plugs work just as well. Or whatever brand of copper plugs, well unless you can find some cheap off the wall bizarre ones through ebay...

You do not want to use Platnum plugs in your neon. It won't like it.

Why not? What would you recommend I use?

Champion RC9YC's are going in my drag car, until I spray, then the NGK bk7re's are going in, since they are colder.

Copper or Iridium


Copper = cheap and effective, change every 15000 - 30000 miles

Iridium = expensive and effective, change every 50000 or more.

Some ppl experience problems with platinum plugs with the wasted spark ign. I haven't personally. I ran the +4's till I had the exhaust giudes replaced, then went with copper. Performance/fuel mileage didn't change any. I don't have any mods that would require a mega spark to light it up so that could be the difference.

Changing the plugs is so easy on this car that I install a new set in the spring and another new set in the fall for the winter.

Overkill? Yes definitely considering the mileage I put on. But, plugs are cheap and at least I know they are fresh and the gap is good... and changing them out and freshening up the anti-seize compound and dielectric grease in the boots means I won't run into the stuck plug issue.

So back to spark plug wires. Someone in my Fuel Filter thread said that the wires should be replaced to help with gas millage. How often should they be replaced?

The manufactuer recommends every 60,000 miles, however mine were shot around 35,000.

racer12306 wrote:Copper or Iridium


Copper = cheap and effective, change every 15000 - 30000 miles

Iridium = expensive and effective, change every 50000 or more.

So are NGK V-Power spark plugs copper or iridium?

What about E3's plugs are they good?

V-Powers are copper.


Never used E3's. Are they available for the neon yet? Last I knew they weren't but this was a year or two ago.

Yes sir, they are out for the neon, and priced at 6.99 each.

For that $ I'd go with Iridium.