water temp gauge ???

Neon4Life · Post by **Neon4Life** » Fri Dec 12, 2008 7:55 am

alrite thanks for the sketch.
and the reasoni asked about the sender was because i remember when i was going to install it that at the parts store it didnt fit into any little t-fitting.

but i see what u are saying about the adapter and well first i guess i gotta go get me a coolant hose then take my sender out that way im not guessing what size i will need and to see if i can even get it out of the fitting it is in now cause i remember it was on there pretty hard.

but thanks and ill let u know if i get it to work out probably by noon today

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Dec 12, 2008 8:14 am

If the sender is over an inch long it is prolly a mechanical gauge. Is it permanently attached to the gauge? if so do not cut it or it will be garbage. It has to be sealed so the liquid inside expands with temp. rise forcing the bent tube inside the gauge dial to move a gear which moves the needle. While the bottom drawing would not be directly in the flow it would still be good. there will be enough turbulence in the tee to get coolant flowing around the sender, as long as it isn't too close of a tolerance to the tee wall.

Neon4Life · Post by **Neon4Life** » Fri Dec 12, 2008 8:54 am

yeah well i just got back from my local parts store and since i first need a new top hose well they gota order it and they would have it by tonite.

i mean dang its only an 04 but they dont even have the hose.

they had the t-fitting.

but im going to have to wait till monday to do it. ( cause tomorrow going to imax theather in indy and then other plans on sunday. ) grrr.

dodgeneonzl · Post by **dodgeneonzl** » Fri Dec 12, 2008 4:29 pm

evilneon... I believe i used a 3/4" brass T... but let me look into that tonight to double check... I'm at work and gets off at 10pm... so i'll let you know.

dodgeneonzl · Post by **dodgeneonzl** » Sat Dec 13, 2008 12:58 am

yeah, it's 3/4 brass good luck

evilneon02 · Post by **evilneon02** » Sat Dec 13, 2008 6:43 pm

thanks for all the help but im fn(Ked my sender is a 1/4 x 3/4 and the hose is 5/8 and there is noone around here that has a t fitting that will work. if i use what home depo or lowes has the sending unit will not be in the path of the water. need help! wut to do now

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Dec 18, 2008 10:05 pm

After seeing one of soul_sword34's pics, I pm'ed him about the adapter he had. This is what I found: They are a bit pricey, but will work with the electric senders and are a clean install.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

Tho, if you used a 3/8 nipple, and a 3/8 x (insert size here) bell adapter, the mechanical sender could be made to work with this.
Thanks, soul_sword34 for the help!

evilneon02 · Post by **evilneon02** » Fri Dec 19, 2008 5:34 pm

nothing is coming up to compare. my new question is would it hurt if i reduce the flow by a 1/4 in? the heater hose is 5/8 and i found a 1/2 to 3/8 with a 3/8 "t". would reducing the flow of water going to hurt anything? thrying to install day after x-mas. please reply soon thanks for all the help

Neon4Life · Post by **Neon4Life** » Fri Dec 19, 2008 10:08 pm

so i had an idea that could save me some troble. like could i just cut a hole in that hose and just fit the sender in trough there and if theres leakage just put tape around it would that work i mean the sender would be in the flow of the coolant all the time.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 7:25 am

Evilneon02: reducing the flow is prolly not a good thing; the heater tubes are what keeps coolant circulating when the t'stat is closed. You could do damage to your head.
I edited my post #37 the links should work.
Fresh04neon: tape will never hold up. it would be better to spend the $41 + shipping, than to risk a major coolant leak.

Neon4Life · Post by **Neon4Life** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 9:46 am

oh those are nice shown in link. i didnt see it earlier when i past trought the thread. thanks for the link. im going to see if i can order me one here in a few.

evilneon02 · Post by **evilneon02** » Sun Dec 21, 2008 7:36 am

thanks for the help. they look just like the ones on ebay. they say they are for the radiator hose but small enought to work in the heater hose.

Neon4Life · Post by **Neon4Life** » Sun Dec 21, 2008 9:09 am

evilneon02 wrote:thanks for the help. they look just like the ones on ebay. they say they are for the radiator hose but small enought to work in the heater hose.

u got a link to that i tried ebay but couldn seem to find iit on there.

evilneon02 · Post by **evilneon02** » Sun Dec 21, 2008 1:46 pm

i thought they were the same but the smallest one i found was 1.02 inches on ebay. im going to check the local plumbing store first they might have somehing.

evilneon02 · Post by **evilneon02** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 5:17 pm

damn "t" checked out one store they are dumb i told the brass and they show me copper

evilneon02 · Post by **evilneon02** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 12:20 pm

does anyone have a good pic of this heater hose? i see 2 hoses on the drivers side.

**Edit**

ok i was at the part store today and seen a flush kit for the coolant and it had a 5/8 "t" (plastic) but the weird thing was it was 5/8 out side diameter and i side was like 3/8 maybe smaller and the 3/4 was like 1/2 maybe smaller on the inside. i was going to make it work but didnt know witch one to go with. you guys say 5/8 or 3/4 and the guy at the store said i should use the 5/8 one. but it looks to small inside. or i found what they call 3/8 brass. and after measurring it is really 7/16 inside and 5/8 outside. will any of this work right? i know this has been answered before and i cant find the parts needed and i really dont have the money for a special part that could be made for less. just want to cover all possiblity. again thanks for all the feed backs and help.

dodgeneonzl · Post by **dodgeneonzl** » Thu Jan 01, 2009 12:30 pm

hey, sorry about not being here for a while, but anyway, i'm back... Ok, the best way i would recommend is cut your heater hose first, and take out half of the hoes that is already cut... the half towards the front of the car because it's easier to bolt back on... and bring it to the store... so find a large enough T that can fit into the hose... you can put one that would stretch the hose a little bit... and clamp it down with the metal clamp... If your neon is 03+ then it's the bottom hose of the two hose that is right beside the battery. Good luck!

evilneon02 · Post by **evilneon02** » Thu Jan 01, 2009 1:27 pm

where does the line run from b/c with mine the top hose runs to the "t" stat and it looks like the bottom runs to the head and i have a 02 sxt

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Jan 01, 2009 1:46 pm

The bottom hose is the hot side. I'm sure all 2gn 2.0 heater tubes are the same. The tube that is on the bottom going into the firewall is the one that comes from the head. The one that is the top into the fire wall, goes into the waterpump rear inlet. You definately want the bottom.

Edit: here iss a pic of the 1gn set up the 2gn is different, they run parallel to each other and swap positions when they make the bend around the head. I have yet to find a good pic of the 2gn's from this angle.

Here are some shots of mine, but kind of obscure. you can tell that the bottom one in the front comes up over the top one when they reach the head. (Blue tubes)

evilneon02 · Post by **evilneon02** » Thu Jan 01, 2009 2:04 pm

thanks for all the help

dodgeneonzl · Post by **dodgeneonzl** » Fri Jan 02, 2009 7:40 am

Yep, that picture shows it all

good luck!

evilneon02 · Post by **evilneon02** » Fri Jan 02, 2009 11:10 am

im done its in and working and right now it gets up to about 180 to 190 range in 30 degree temp out side. so in the summer i should see 210. does this sound right?

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Jan 02, 2009 10:04 pm

Depends on the condition of your radiator, (prolly fine) and the t'stat. My cherokee ran at 210º regardless of the ambient air temps. Then I changed it (t'stat) as preventative maintenance, with a mopar one, and now it only hits 195º. Unless it is 90ºF or above, then it will run at 210º to 220º.

dodgeneonzl · Post by **dodgeneonzl** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 2:06 pm

i think it depends on your t'stat... i'm thinking some might be a little off... I recently started installing a carpc into my car... and i also got a usb OBDII and when i connect the OBDII the program shows that it's running about 195 degrees and my gauge shows 210... so i'll say it's all relative

evilneon02 · Post by **evilneon02** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 7:14 pm

this gauge is off bad it will go from 190 to 217
and as soon as it hit 210 it will start flashing the when it hits 217 the fan kicks on and it drops to 190 and starts all over again. its crazy but my factory gauge still read normal as always.

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 10:54 pm

I don't think the factory gauge/sender is sensitive enough to pick up on the fluctuation. Mine only moves a needle width from fan off to fan on. I replaced the sender in GF's Sundance with an autometer unit, and the factory gauge swings much more than it did with the oem sender.
No, they dont make ones for neons.

(Prolly due to them being two senders in one.)

evilneon02 · Post by **evilneon02** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 8:10 pm

well at least i know if it goes over 217 in the winter something might be wrong and ill have to watch it in the summer to see what it does. thanks for all the help

Neon4Life · Post by **Neon4Life** » Fri Feb 06, 2009 4:24 pm

so i got an idea wondering if itll work.

can i take the wires from the aftermarket gauge sender and attach them to my original coolant sensor to get a exact reading??

so in basic terms just splice and hook up together. and would they both still read the temp.