Overheating/coolant leak

derek · Post by **derek** » Sun Dec 21, 2008 4:14 pm

I just bought a 2000 Neon as a winter car and I have been driving it for a little over a month no problems with the cooling system at all.

One day I noticed my heat was working intermitantly. I didn't bother to check my coolant because I had just topped it up days before. When I did check my coolant a day or so later, I noticed it was pretty much bone dry (but didn't over heat my car at this point).

I can't seem to find any leaks, I don't find any puddles under the car, but it is definatly taking in air somewhere. Does this sound like a rad cap problem? The rubber on the bottom of my cap is a little rugged and cracked looking. I am going to try it anyway since it is only a 20 dollar part, but I thought I would post up here for any input.

Also with the coolant full the car's temp only ever shows up to the first quarter line. Is this usually where these cars run? My SRT runs half.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Dec 21, 2008 9:21 pm

All my '01 goes to is about 1/4 gauge. If the rubber seal is dry rotted, or cracked it could be evaporating out there. If it has close to/over 100,000 miles then check the water pump area for seepage. At that mileage the Timing belt/water pump is due for replacement. (105,000) Go over all your hoses for good measure. See if you can smell coolant in the engine bay when it is at operating temp.

derek · Post by **derek** » Sun Dec 21, 2008 10:32 pm

Haha, she is way over 100,000 miles. It has 240,000 kilometers and is still the factory timing belt and water pump. I know that needs to be done but I am not too worried about it for the time being. This is afterall just a winter car and I can't let myself sink too much money into it.

But like I said I can't see any obvious leaks at this time, so i am going to try the rad cap and see if that would help me.

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Dec 22, 2008 8:09 am

A water pump and timing belt can be done by your self for well under $200. To me that beats walking a ways in -30ºC and a stiif breeze. It is only a matter of time before it breaks, especially in sub zero temps when everything is alot harder to move, and that belt is a bit more brittle....

Post by **racer12306** » Mon Dec 22, 2008 8:21 am

It still needs to be reliable or else you were better off not buying it.

Now when you say bone dry do you mean the radiator itself or the expansion tank?

derek · Post by **derek** » Wed Dec 24, 2008 2:37 pm

Finally started leaking bad enough for me to find it. I replaced the rad cap, but looks like it is going to need a rad.

derek · Post by **derek** » Thu Dec 25, 2008 11:12 pm

Ok looks like I was wrong.

I started the car one day I saw a puddle of coolant on the ground and watched it drip from the front of the bumper on the drivers side. I followed it and it looked like it was leaking from the lower rad hose.

I filled the car with coolant and put the car up on stands so i could get under it and really inspect it. I could not find a leak anywhere. I had the car started, let it get to operating temp, took it for a drive, let it sit in another spot in the clean pavement driveway, and still no leaks.

Tonight I drove it for about an hour or so and the heat gauge did not move. When I got out of the car I could smell coolant. It is very odd. I am going to have to keep an eye on it for the next few days to see where it is going, and how fast it is leaking.

No, the coolant is not going in my oil.

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Fri Dec 26, 2008 1:21 am

It sounds like the lower hose is old and leaking when it's under pressure. There isn't much pressure at idle, but once you get above 3k the hose will expand and leak. Grab a new hose for like $10 with some better clamps.