SRT-4 Plugs and Wires?

mopar4life · Post by **mopar4life** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 10:02 pm

I believe my SRT needs plugs and wires now too. It has 40K miles but sat up for over a year before being started when it was in the salvage yard. So what is the best plugs and wires to get for it? I dont wanna spend over about 70 bucks so what all options do I have?

Swordfish2Cowboy · Post by **Swordfish2Cowboy** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 2:54 am

Spend $90 on wires and $4 on Champion plugs, and get a job.

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 4:27 am

Get a step colder...

http://www.modernperformance.com/iridiu ... -1144.html

I am running 2 step colders & msd wires on stock coil. Not crazy about the wires but i'm still not sure what else to get

Can't go wrong with brand new OEM wires.

fixitmattman · Post by **fixitmattman** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 10:30 am

No reason to go a step colder on a stock/bolt on engine.

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 11:48 am

These engines run 5-6kr from the factory...that's enough for me to run a step colder.

fixitmattman · Post by **fixitmattman** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 12:54 pm

So? Unless you have pre-ignitin problems it pointless to run colder plugs. Since a stock/bolt on engine shouldn't have pre-ignition problems there's no point. In fact you normally want to run a fairly hot plug to keep the plug in the self cleaning range. Start running too cold on a stock engine and you can run into fouling problems. Coincidentally stock plugs are sized to be kept in the self cleaning zone while not being too hot to cause pre-ignition even under the worst conditions. Unless you've changed the conditions significantly you don't need to change the heat range of the plugs.

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 5:31 pm

So? SO? You are happy with detonation going on in your motor? That's cooo. The only "normal" plug i would consider running is the NGK 4306.

mopar4life · Post by **mopar4life** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 5:59 pm

I ordered the equivelent plug as the NGK in an Autolite and ordered a set of OEM wires to put on it. Ill put em on and see how much it helps. It acts like it bogs like it is.

fixitmattman · Post by **fixitmattman** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 6:00 pm

There is no detonation in my engine, non should there be yours. That's my point.

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 8:18 pm

fixitmattman wrote:There is no detonation in my engine, non should there be yours. That's my point.

And you've confirmed this on a scan gauge?

Post by **racer12306** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 8:53 pm

And have you confirmed there is detonation?

An OEM engine with or without bolt ons is not going to detonate. Bolt ons do not affect the mixture enough for the computer to not compensate.

OEM plugs FTW on a stock or near stock engine.

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 9:07 pm

These aren't N/A engines

On a 100% stock SRT engine i've seen detonation on 93 octane, I know what i'm talking about.

Post by **racer12306** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 9:08 pm

Well, you don't say that in the first place. You just start spouting off shit. Lay out the info and maybe people won't question your knowledge.

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 9:09 pm

Spouting on shit?

This dude says even 1 step colder is bad for the engine without any proof whatsoever...so go tell him shit if you want to jump on someone

fixitmattman · Post by **fixitmattman** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 9:17 pm

Let me guess, your scan guage tells you that two steps colder of a plug gives you 50hp.

You know what's really good a picking out knock? Your ears. Better and more commonly used than piezoelectric knock sensors.

Don't believe me, look into it.

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 11:28 pm

I see i'm dealing with archaic caveman motor builders here...and i'll step out from here.

n20sxt · Post by **n20sxt** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 11:54 pm

racer12306 wrote:And have you confirmed there is detonation?

An OEM engine with or without bolt ons is not going to detonate. Bolt ons do not affect the mixture enough for the computer to not compensate.

OEM plugs FTW on a stock or near stock engine.

I'm w/ you, there's no need to run colder plugs unless FI is in the picture or extensive N/A mods

Post by **racer12306** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 8:27 am

Adionik wrote:Spouting on shit?

This dude says even 1 step colder is bad for the engine without any proof whatsoever...so go tell him shit if you want to jump on someone

He is talking about something that is generally accepted. You are going against the grain. Thus you need to prove your theory's.

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 2:06 pm

n20sxt wrote:
racer12306 wrote:And have you confirmed there is detonation?

An OEM engine with or without bolt ons is not going to detonate. Bolt ons do not affect the mixture enough for the computer to not compensate.

OEM plugs FTW on a stock or near stock engine.
I'm w/ you, there's no need to run colder plugs unless FI is in the picture or extensive N/A mods

We're talking about an SRT-4!

He is talking about something that is generally accepted. You are going against the grain. Thus you need to prove your theory's.

Maybe on N/A engines, but it's common knowledge to run colder plugs on SRT-4's, hell FI's in general. Maybe modern's description will make more sense

Stock heat range is for cars that are BONE stock with no increase in boost, and arent driven hard. Colder range, is for the 99% of SRT-4 drivers out there, who have increased the boost, or drive their cars hard. Price is for a set of four (4).

n20sxt · Post by **n20sxt** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 2:12 pm

We're talking about an SRT-4!

actually i was referring to you running 2 step colder plugs....

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 2:14 pm

I'm running 2 step colder because i'm going to be pushing 20lbs of boost with meth. Then 30psi with my new toy. By then i'll need 3 steps colder

n20sxt · Post by **n20sxt** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 2:15 pm

Adionik wrote:I'm running 2 step colder because i'm going to be pushing 20lbs of boost with meth. Then 30psi with my new toy. By then i'll need 3 steps colder

Well there ya go, shoulda said so in the first place. It makes sense now

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 2:29 pm

Yup. But OP said he was looking for an AGP wastegate not to long ago, so i'm sure even if he lightly mods it, 1 step colder will help him.

mopar4life · Post by **mopar4life** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 5:28 pm

Indeed, I ordered 1 step colder because of that. Im looking at getttin the Diablo Sport and the AGP gate this summer so at least my plugs will be ready for the extra boost. Thank yall as always.

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 5:49 pm

smart man

fixitmattman · Post by **fixitmattman** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:52 pm

Adionik wrote:I'm running 2 step colder because i'm going to be pushing 20lbs of boost with meth. Then 30psi with my new toy. By then i'll need 3 steps colder

a) Most people aren't running that setup, hence don't require 2 steps colder plugs on generally stock engines. I have banged my engine off the rev limiter all day without the hint of any knock. Any stock/mild bolt on engine should be able to do the same. It is of little concern whether the STOCK engine is N/A or FI, they go through the same durability procedures. Most engine mfg's like to avoid knock under hard loading, not good for warranty claims.

b) Scan guage only tells you what the knock sensor is reading and/or if timing is being pulled. All electronics have their limitations, I'm sure you've head the saying the computer is only as good as the user. Knock sensors are no different. Unlike the human ear and brain combination the knock sensor is unable to tell the difference between background engine noise and the actual knock event, thus giving false readings at times. The ECU algorithm is normally based around a combination of what the knocksensor is indicating as well as what the calibration engineers ear indicates. Hence, just because you get a reading from the knock sensor doesn't me you actually have knock.

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:23 pm

Go drive any late 70's Mopar with "lean burn"
You will then know the meaning of spark knock.

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Thu Mar 12, 2009 3:14 am

fixitmattman wrote:
Adionik wrote:I'm running 2 step colder because i'm going to be pushing 20lbs of boost with meth. Then 30psi with my new toy. By then i'll need 3 steps colder
a) Most people aren't running that setup, hence don't require 2 steps colder plugs on generally stock engines. I have banged my engine off the rev limiter all day without the hint of any knock. Any stock/mild bolt on engine should be able to do the same. It is of little concern whether the STOCK engine is N/A or FI, they go through the same durability procedures. Most engine mfg's like to avoid knock under hard loading, not good for warranty claims.

b) Scan guage only tells you what the knock sensor is reading and/or if timing is being pulled. All electronics have their limitations, I'm sure you've head the saying the computer is only as good as the user. Knock sensors are no different. Unlike the human ear and brain combination the knock sensor is unable to tell the difference between background engine noise and the actual knock event, thus giving false readings at times. The ECU algorithm is normally based around a combination of what the knocksensor is indicating as well as what the calibration engineers ear indicates. Hence, just because you get a reading from the knock sensor doesn't me you actually have knock.

I absolutely agree with you on the "false knock" index. Any loose bolts in the bottom end or a BS assembly at high rpm's is going to give that, but the way most of us do it is throw a few gallons of race gas in the tank and check to see if you get any KR. If it goes away, your KR isn't hardware related...if it doesn't, then you have other issues.

But like I said, it's not uncommon for stock engines to get 3-6kr stock. Boost is going to vary, fuel, everything...and KR will be there