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Hey guys,

I have been trying to track down an aftermarket computer with little luck. I did however find a 2000 afx-r auto for sale on another board and was wondering if I would make this work in my 01 rt?

I have read that there are some differences with the iac but is there anything else? I know that auto will throw a code for torque converter lock up but will there be any ill effects running this thing? I am going to remove the butterflies in my intake so the fact that this wont be able to controll those is a none issue.

Any help would be greatly appriciated.

You could try contacting howell and see if they can flash it for you. Might be worth a shot.

I thought they were about worthless to deal with? I know a guy that has an 01 mtx afx-r but he wants an arm and a leg for it. Still cheaper then new but the auto is about 150 bucks cheaper.

I've heard things like that, but I never had that kind of problem. Usually those are problems with products they carry from other manufacturers, where they just drop ship the orders. The ecu is a howell specific product so they should be very helpful.

spencersummerfield ran an auto afx-r pcm in his mtx neon with only the issues you mentioned. Iac is wired differently, so you would have to adjust the throttle stop to get the car to idle. You will also have a code for the torque converter lock-up, but it will not effect anything. I'm sure you could probably pm him if you have any questions.

Or you could run the Modern 60mm TB with the 2000 IAC adapter, and find an IAC in the local boneyard.

I wonder if you wire a relay to the lockup solenoid wire, if it would be enough to fool the PCM into thinking the circuit is complete. Relays are around $5, IDK what a solenoid would cost. I bet much more.

Edit: Just to clarify, the relay need not have a function, you would just be using the coil to simulate the solenoid.

I dont care if I have a cel on. I plan on removing some emissons soon anyways so thats out the window. As long as it will not cause the ecu to do anything weird I dont care.

Also, my current iac is non functional due to carbon so it is unplugged.....thowing a cel so I probably wont even mess with the iac. I like the way the motor idles un assisted anyways. The adjustment screw works just fine.

i think TNK was the person i saw who unbolted the Lock-up solenoid, and cable tied it to the side of his new mtx trans. Solves the CEL fairly easily, if it bugs you having it on.

Ok so I have decided that it should be fine to run this 2000 afx-r but now I have another question so I dont end up with a problem ecu.

The guy is selling the ecu because it shuts his car off after 5 seconds every time. He claims its because his car does not have sentry and that this ecu has sentry. Would that cause his problem? My car has the sentry system so that shouldnt be an issue for me right?

Also, if I get it will my car run at all if I plug it in or will I have to take it to the dealer to have the vin updated for the sentry to allow my car to run??? I have read that it just throws a code due to the vin not matching.

Let me know guys. Thanks

Sentry will/should lock down the starter after a few attempts. It should not let it crank/start/run, even for 5 seconds after that. So I would be tempted to think BS on that one.

If it was fine, you will need to get it flashed at the dealer for the SKIM mainly. The VIN thing I think is more for NGC. I have a PCM from a different car in my '01 and there are no VIN issues.

Yes you will need the Vin from The new ecu, flashed into your sentry module.

I have experimented with this stuff a bit, if you take the SKIM fuse out, it will let you start the car, but the car shuts off after 5 seconds. Same as if it's seeing the wrong VIN number, flashed into your SKIM. You'll be fine so long as a dealer near you will flash it, without hassle.

What kind of price can i expect to have the skim updated? I dont want to pay too much so i would like to know what is a good price.

From what I've read here, about $80 ish. Prolly depends on the dealer's hourly rate.

Depending on what you are buying it for, weather local or not, I would get some kind of agreement from the seller, that if the dealer says it is not functional you can get a refund. You may be out the $ to the dealer, but it might be better than a total loss. If local make the seller go to the dealer, and if it works, pay them then.