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SlvrACR wrote:Your suppose to change your plugs because it fouls them up with all the buildup. Take them out I bet there burnt

viewtopic.php?t=12819

i didnt put any in my oil though. u think they could of still fouled my plugs

putting it in the oil has nothing to do with fouling the plugs

ok well tommorow ima change the plugs and hopefully thats solves it

it wont because its still gonna burn the oil.

what do i need to do then change the oil to

it's worth a shot, but did you read the post that Occasional Demons posted?

about changing the plugs. yes i read it

occasional demons wrote:Valve guides/seals would be one possibility. If the guides are shot, they will wear out the seals. The seals will let the oil get sucked out the exhaust guide, into the exhaust. A compression check won't necessarily show this problem, unless the guide is so bad the valve won't seat. If the guides are shot, and you need a valve grind, it is really more economical to get the bare head from Mancini and put some valves in it. You can reuse your cam, springs, locks and retainers. This is what I wished I had done.

The worse case is a broken ring.

A leakdown test will show where the problem is more than a compression test. They put compressed air into the spark plug hole, and check the crankcase for air leaking, the IM and and exhaust. There is going to be some air escaping from the crank case regardless, it is just a matter of what rate it is leaking out.

No, this one

yes but when i pulled my plugs today there was no sign of oil at all. but ill still do the test to be on the safe side

SlvrACR wrote:Your suppose to change your plugs because it fouls them up with all the buildup. Take them out I bet there burnt

viewtopic.php?t=12819

yes the plugs were burnt . i replaced them but its still smokes did a few more pulls and its white smoke with a bluish tint to it

could it be my headgasket???

Blue smoke is oil either you have a hurt ring allowing oil into the combustion chamber or a bad valve seal allowing it to roll down the valve itself into the combustion chamber.

could it be my turbo seals

Any updates on what happened?
I searched and came across this thread. I have been researching seafoam and found some good information through the internetz.
1. No you do not need to change your plugs after a seafoam treatment.
2. Make sure you do it on a warm engine.
If you do put in the crankcase, change your oil within 100 miles.
3. Be careful putting it through your vac line from PCV valve. Don't want to hydrolock your motor and cause rod knock. Check this out:
http://forums.evolutionm.net/lancer-eng ... sucks.html

I am with Bill on using Mopar Combustion Cleaner instead of SeaFoam for the vacuum portion of it.

This how-to is full of win and what I personally will do with my SRT:
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/general-m ... r-car.html
I am just using the SeaFoam for the gas tank to clean the injectors. Put 6oz in to my half a tank of gas. 1oz per gallon of gas. I plan on getting the MCC and using the entire can. After all said and done changing the oil the next day or so. Don't want any of that crud staying in my oil for long.

MyNeonSaysHi wrote: 3. I personally would never put that stuff in my crankcase. For one its a cool liquid at room temperature and they tell you to put that in a motor that is at 200 plus. Hot+Cold is not good.

Don't you think they thought of that?

MyNeonSaysHi wrote: 3. I personally would never put that stuff in my crankcase. For one its a cool liquid at room temperature and they tell you to put that in a motor that is at 200 plus. Hot+Cold is not good.
If you do put in the crankcase, change your oil within 100 miles.

You don't add oil when the engine is running?

Nope.
Wasn't thinking when I posted that, but I have added oil to a warm engine.