Mp's Motor mount bolts

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Caraudioholic24
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Mp's Motor mount bolts

Post by Caraudioholic24 » Thu Dec 31, 2009 2:42 pm

Ok so I picked up a set of BOOMBA motor mounts. I also picked up a set of the upgraded bolts form modern. Now I have an 05 ATX. The upper motor mount has that smaller bracket held in by two bolts, its the one closest to the motor. Well in my car they are nuts and the studs stay in place. Is there a way to remove the studs so i can install the new bolts?? Thanks.
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Danteneon
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Post by Danteneon » Thu Dec 31, 2009 3:00 pm

So the mount you bought replaces the upper factory piece on the mounting plate? Interesting.

The easiest way to remove the studs would be to get two nuts (or use the two that are there already) and run one nut down onto the stud far enough to allow you to run the second one down to the first one. While holding the upper nut with a wrench, use another wrench to tighten up the lower nut against the upper. Once they are tight together, use a wrench on the lower nut to remove the stud. Because the nuts are tight together the stud has to come out instead.

Easy :)
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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Caraudioholic24
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Post by Caraudioholic24 » Thu Dec 31, 2009 3:21 pm

Sweet. I was kinda thinkin the same idea. thanks
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neonslg09
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Post by neonslg09 » Thu Dec 31, 2009 5:04 pm

Kinda like coilover adjustment John.

Caraudioholic24
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Post by Caraudioholic24 » Thu Dec 31, 2009 5:38 pm

LOL dam snow wont let me do anything. Hopefully will clear up for the weekend.

I was able to 90% install my filled trans mount yesterday. I'm sending out the bracket and battery tray to get powder coated since it looked like crap.

Thanks again
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Post by Caraudioholic24 » Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:59 am

Ok I found a stud removal tool. Goes down to a 1/4" stud. Would this be better??

Whats the risk of me snapping this stud in the mount cause if I do I will be screwed!!! lol
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Danteneon
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Post by Danteneon » Mon Jan 04, 2010 10:16 am

Stud removers are normally used on studs that are damaged and need to come out. If you don't care what it does to the threads, then you can use that.

So the two nut trick didn't work?

Wow...that sounds so wrong somehow
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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Caraudioholic24
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Post by Caraudioholic24 » Mon Jan 04, 2010 10:29 am

Oh I haven't tried it since Its been snowing out. I was rummaging through some of my tools and came across that tool. (stud remover) wasn't sure if it would have been easier or not LOL. I will try the the trick first If not I will try the remover. Thanks again.
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Post by occasional demons » Mon Jan 04, 2010 12:23 pm

You won't be able to get the stud remover on much but the threaded part, IIRC the studs are tapered. I would do the 2 nuts, then like you said, resort to the remover. IDK if they used thread locker or not.

If you have a propane torch, you could throw a little heat to it. This will help with any thread locker that may be used, and aluminum swells faster than steel, so it may help in breaking them loose. You may need to put a piece of sheet metal behind it, to keep from heating stuff that doesn't like heat.
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Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
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Danteneon
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Post by Danteneon » Mon Jan 04, 2010 12:28 pm

I have had the studs come out of the plate when I was removing the nuts like normal before. Chrysler didn't use any thead locker on mine.

They should come out without too much problem. The heat trick that Bill suggested should work well if needed. Just be careful of the fuel line running near there :shock:
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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Post by Caraudioholic24 » Mon Jan 04, 2010 12:31 pm

LOl ok I will. Fuel line removed as of right now.

I will give this a go as soon as the dam weather gives me a chance too. Thanks again!!!!
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Post by occasional demons » Mon Jan 04, 2010 12:31 pm

Hence the heat shield. I was actually thinking more of the timing cover melting, But the fuel line is a bigger priority, or will cause more excitement anyways. :shock:
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

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Post by Caraudioholic24 » Sun Feb 21, 2010 1:24 pm

Ok got the 2 studs out. it was tight because they used Blue locktite. Not bad. Now I tried using mps larger bolt for the bottom motor mount and it wont fit. Its too big. Apparently the srts use a bigger bolt down there. Anyone have the thread size so I can tap it out to the correct size!! Its just part of what looks to be the Ac bracket. Thanks
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Post by Caraudioholic24 » Mon Feb 22, 2010 12:08 pm

Anyone have an idea???
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Post by stdlystdmufn » Mon Feb 22, 2010 12:13 pm

for the bottom i just used the stock bolts, i couldn't figure out why the mps were too big.
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Post by Danteneon » Mon Feb 22, 2010 12:54 pm

The stock (non SRT) lower bolt is M12x1.75x90

The SRT uses a larger M14 bolt.
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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Post by Caraudioholic24 » Wed Feb 24, 2010 2:15 pm

Well I didnt know it wasnt going to fit until I tried them on. LOL. SInce I paid for em I will just tap out the hole to the srt size.


DO you have the thread pattern for the tap I need???
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Danteneon
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Post by Danteneon » Wed Feb 24, 2010 3:31 pm

Yep. The SRT bolt is M14x2x95
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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Forest Green 2k
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Post by Forest Green 2k » Wed Feb 24, 2010 3:39 pm

I almost ordered these, they list them as being compatible with 00-05 Neons.
2000 Forest Green - SOLD

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Post by Caraudioholic24 » Wed Feb 24, 2010 8:40 pm

a little bit of work but well worth it. hardest part was getting the 2 upper studs off to mount muy new part. looks awesome now
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