2 stage rpm window switch

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srtgtr34
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2 stage rpm window switch

Post by srtgtr34 » Thu Feb 11, 2010 9:42 pm

I was searching on ebay for some switches and came across this.

http://tinyurl.com/yzwqra7

Instructions:
http://tinyurl.com/ylqgona

With this unit you can control the butterflies on a magnum intake mani just like the stock r/t pcm does.

What do you guys think?

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Post by srtgtr34 » Fri Feb 12, 2010 9:00 pm

lol, any one?

Has anyone even used a 2 stage switch with the mag mani yet?

Wouldn't this be the best way to operate the butterflies. stage 1, 1-3k stage 2 4.5-redline.

Is it worth it to buy a two stage instead of a regular rpm switch?

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Post by sneakers O'toole » Fri Feb 12, 2010 11:07 pm

check out the how-to's in the engine how-to's. there are 4 different ways to do this with either a harlan, msd8969 or the summit switch.

all 3 can be set up to open the butterflies at 2 rpm settings. the summit and harlan are fairly inexpensive, the msd is a bit more but still cheaper than the one you posted.
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Post by stdlystdmufn » Sat Feb 13, 2010 1:30 am

i think the others are just set up to turn off at a certain rpm range (3k-4.5k) but im not sure, i didn't make the how to i just follow instructions well.
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Post by srtgtr34 » Sat Feb 13, 2010 7:08 am

I read all three how to's. I didn't once think of just running them open and just using the switch to close them.. duh..

This switch says that the wot switch is built in already. I would rather have one box than two boxes under the hood. This way is cheaper than an msd switch with a wot switch too.

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Post by sneakers O'toole » Sat Feb 13, 2010 9:44 am

oooh, i didn't see it was both switches in one...i misunderstood about the whole 2 in 1 thing...thought you were only talking about the rpm activation points. :tardbang:
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Post by stdlystdmufn » Sat Feb 13, 2010 12:18 pm

yea i thought he was talking about a two stage rpm thing too, but you really don't even need the wot switch you really could just use the rpm switch. im thinking of taking my wot out.
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Post by sneakers O'toole » Sat Feb 13, 2010 2:56 pm

yeah i don't have a WOT switch at all. i'm no engineer or anything, but i see no reason to have the butterflies open at two points other than it "working like OEM"....meh..to each his own i suppose.

if i was worried about my car "working like OEM" i wouldn't have dumped over 2k into it so far, lol. one opening point at about 4900 is good enough....not like it does a whole hell of a lot anyway.
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Post by occasional demons » Sun Feb 14, 2010 1:46 pm

The only reason I can see to use a WOT swith, would be wear and tear on the MTV motor/assembly. The entire time you are in the ranges to be open, the MTV coil is energized. Not sure how warm it gets, or if it will actually shorten it's life span, but it is something to consider. Periods of WOT are usually occuring less often, and for shorter durations.

Since the motors are 6 years out of production, one has to wonder how long they will be available for replacement.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

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Post by sneakers O'toole » Sun Feb 14, 2010 5:40 pm

i see what your sayin OD but for me, i'm not at any kind of part throttle above 4900rpms lol.

but i could see if it was set up (like quicksilver's old set-up?) to open twice..BUT, without a WOT switch, that would put quite a beating on that motor.
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Post by ZeroChad » Sun Feb 14, 2010 5:40 pm

I agree Bill. That's why I use a Zex WOT switch. I found it on ebay for pretty cheap. Opening them <3200 really helps highway accl in 5th gear if you don't want to downshift.

I was actually looking at that switch when I was setting up mine. I was able to find the summit and zex switches for about $85 so that's why I went with them. It looks like this switch will accomplish the same means though.

You're wiring will be slightly different. I would use both output channels to control one relay to the MTV motor. I would also isolate each channel with a diode.
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Post by srtgtr34 » Sun Feb 14, 2010 7:36 pm

So essentially, the msd switch is just as effective as the linked unit above, except for the wot switch.

I also thought that it isn't as efficient to have the secondaries open from 3-5k, so wouldn't a wot switch hurt performance?

I really want to get the most out of the mag mani, so which is the better pic out of the units out there?

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Post by occasional demons » Sun Feb 14, 2010 7:40 pm

srtgtr34 wrote: I also thought that it isn't as efficient to have the secondaries open from 3-5k, so wouldn't a wot switch hurt performance?
When used with the RPM switch, it will only open at WOT, and the set RPM range(s).
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

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Post by ZeroChad » Sun Feb 14, 2010 8:05 pm

Since they cost the same, that ebay switch is a better deal than the MSD switch. Plus you can use a single relay with it.
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Post by occasional demons » Mon Feb 15, 2010 9:45 am

what I'm curious about, is can the WOT voltage be set at a different setting, so the MTV will open at a lower voltage than WOT? Since some of us run 60mm TB's the MAP value/oem flow for WOT will come sooner. To me, it would be better to open them sooner with a 60mm TB. Say 75 to 80% throttle opening.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

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Post by ZeroChad » Mon Feb 15, 2010 12:57 pm

occasional demons wrote:what I'm curious about, is can the WOT voltage be set at a different setting, so the MTV will open at a lower voltage than WOT? Since some of us run 60mm TB's the MAP value/oem flow for WOT will come sooner. To me, it would be better to open them sooner with a 60mm TB. Say 75 to 80% throttle opening.
Looking at the manual, it looks like it learns it via the "highest/lowest" voltage it sees during the learn "mode". I would think you'd be able to set it to whatever position you desired.
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Post by srtgtr34 » Mon Feb 15, 2010 1:46 pm

So I really don't need a two stage switch, since there is no where to wire the second stage to, I mean the same task could be done with a regular rpm switch.

The only other features that makes this unit great are the integrated wot switch and that it doesn't need a tach adapter to get a good rpm signal.

I was looking at their website (dynotune) and the two stage is much cheaper than the single stage.
I am seriously considering this switch over the msd and harlan switches, even though this one seems kind of confusing to set up.

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Post by stdlystdmufn » Mon Feb 15, 2010 3:30 pm

go harlan b/c you dont need a tach adapter.
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Post by ZeroChad » Mon Feb 15, 2010 3:33 pm

This switch will allow you to control your MTV motor exactly how it was suppose to.
STEP 3. Channel 1 Activation RPM
A B C = RPM where 02.3 = 2300 RPM
STEP 4. Channel 1 Deactivation RPM
A B C = RPM where 06.6 = 6600 RPM
STEP 5. Channel 2 Activation RPM
A B C = RPM where 03.9 = 3900 RPM
STEP 6. Channel 2 Deactivation
This will allow you to use channel 1 for the 0-3200 range (at WOT) and channel 2 for the 5000+ range. These are sinking outputs, so you'd connect the ground of a relay coil to them. Essentially, you would wire the mtv motor to ground, and wire the hot through the relay's Normally-Open contact (87) (switched on when the coil is activated). Connect the other contact (30) to +12VDC. You'll wire the positive coil side (86) to a switched 12V source. The negative coil side (85) will be connected to both of the outputs (orange and yellow). To be on the safe side, I would solder in a diode to each of the outputs.
stdlystdmufn wrote:go harlan b/c you dont need a tach adapter.
The summit switch doesn't require one either. Not sure if this one does.
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Post by srtgtr34 » Mon Feb 15, 2010 4:11 pm

Based on what I read some cars will need a tach adapter if they have direct fire coils.

Would I benefit, If I used the multigear lockout feature to disable the secondaries in 5th gear so I can save some mpgs on the highway?, Or would leaving them with the regular settings be just as efficient?

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Post by ZeroChad » Mon Feb 15, 2010 4:56 pm

I wouldn't bother with it since you have the WOT switch built in. When your pedal is on the floor, gas mileage isn't a concern hehe.
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Post by occasional demons » Mon Feb 15, 2010 7:55 pm

If you needed WOT in 5th, chances are you would just grab 3rd, like I do. (Unless your engine produces earth stopping torque. :shock:)
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

ZeroChad
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Post by ZeroChad » Mon Feb 15, 2010 9:12 pm

occasional demons wrote:If you needed WOT in 5th, chances are you would just grab 3rd, like I do. (Unless your engine produces earth stopping torque. :shock:)
High compression FTW lol not quite.
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Post by occasional demons » Mon Feb 15, 2010 9:26 pm

Prolly running at legal highway speeds, the torque is likely going to be there to use part throttle. I have no problem accelerating above 65 mph in 5th. (.81 5th, 60mm with long runner ghetto IM) It pulls very well from 70 mph -up. But if I want to get there a bit quicker, going to 3rd is the ticket. Down shifting to 4th really doesn't do too much for kicking it in the butt.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

srtgtr34
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Location: Cleveland

Post by srtgtr34 » Mon Feb 15, 2010 9:42 pm

I keep forgetting that the secondaries are only open in wot and between the set rpm ranges... duh :tardbang:

I"ll probly be buying the switch after the mani is polished and the other pieces are done, which should be hopefully by mid may.. Kinda backed up right now with projects..

I'll let you guys know when I get it and what problems I run into, if any..

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Post by occasional demons » Mon Feb 15, 2010 9:50 pm

:thumbup:

I am still debating on polish, or paint. I have it port matched to the head, and the inlet sanded out to 57/58mm, but that is about as far as I have got. Something about working in a 20ºF garage doesn't thrill me.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

srtgtr34
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Posts: 896
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Location: Cleveland

Post by srtgtr34 » Mon Feb 15, 2010 10:08 pm

occasional demons wrote::thumbup:

I am still debating on polish, or paint. I have it port matched to the head, and the inlet sanded out to 57/58mm, but that is about as far as I have got. Something about working in a 20ºF garage doesn't thrill me.
It matches up perfectly with the mustang tb right?

Thats the next project that I'm looking to start.

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Post by occasional demons » Mon Feb 15, 2010 10:16 pm

Well, not perfectly, but prolly close enough for my purposes.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

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