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water pump, pistons and valves alignment?
Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 1:18 pm
by SP33DN3ON
Replaced the water pump, timing belt and the tensioner las night on my 2001 SE. I didn't put the car together, because the Haynes Manual says to turn the crank shaft 2 full resolutions to see if the valves and pistons sit properly. Book says if you feel any resistance not to continue, my case is that I can easily turn it, but the last 3/4 before the mark somehow the belt "slips" (stays where it is suppose to be), but the crank shaft turns faster than the first few turns. I am afraid that when I start the car it will bent everything...or I am just looking way to much into it?
Any thoughts?
Thanks!!!
I know you guys like pics, so theres some:

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 2:04 pm
by r/tguy02
i'm confused, how does a belt slip but still stay where its suppost to be?
Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 2:26 pm
by SP33DN3ON
r/tguy02 wrote:i'm confused, how does a belt slip but still stay where its suppost to be?
the belt doesn't slip, but when there's a certain position just right before the mark where I have to apply a lot more force to turn the belt and the crank shaft, and I hear this "slipping" sound, where the rest of turns its pretty smooth.
it maybe a piston in the engine though... IDK
it might not be even from the belts
Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 3:44 pm
by r/tguy02
interesting, the extra force needed to turn just comes from the compression but the noise i dunno man, if you record it do you think it would capture the noise?
Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 4:24 pm
by Forest Green 2k
I should of replaced my tensioner when I had the chance

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 7:01 pm
by fixitmattman
I just fire the starter over a few time, re-check, and if it's good I fire it up with the timing cover off to make sure.
Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 8:27 pm
by esteinmaier
You're fighting compression. Pull your spark plugs and try again.
Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 9:21 pm
by occasional demons
From the pics, you have the wires removed, but it is impossible to see if the plugs are out. At TDC/BDC, it will move a bit easier also, as the crank can spin that little bit, without the piston(s) actually moving.
There was no need to remove the cam gear, unless you were smart, and replaced the seal behind it. Have you torqued the gear to spec? If not, do that before you do anything else. The pin on the cam will shear off, and you will have another fun project.
Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 5:54 am
by SP33DN3ON
car is done!!!
took me like what...3 days x 7hrs = 21hrs
for doing it mostly by myself with a manual and no experience.
Car runs STROOOOONG!!!!
My sister has an '05 SXT ATX w/ 30K, and the gas pedal is so light and takes off so fast. Now my car does about the same!
I think my belts or something was loose causing it to lack power and accelaration.
parts replaced:
-water pump
-timing belt
-tensioner (hydraulic - it was a bitch to put back on!)
-upper and lower engine mounts
Harderst things I experienced:
-pulling out the crank shaft
-aligning the timing belt w/ the mark
-tilting the engine w/ the mounts and the TORX-55 engine bolt (took me like 3 hours to figure it out)
thanks for the help guys!

Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 8:00 am
by occasional demons
SP33DN3ON wrote:
Harderst things I experienced:
-
pulling off the crank pulley
-aligning the timing belt w/ the mark
-tilting the engine w/ the mounts and the TORX-55 engine bolt (took me like 3 hours to figure it out)
thanks for the help guys!

Fixed.

Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 9:20 pm
by ZeroChad
^lol I was thinking that too.
Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 10:49 pm
by SP33DN3ON
occasional demons wrote:SP33DN3ON wrote:
Harderst things I experienced:
-
pulling off the crank pulley
-aligning the timing belt w/ the mark
-tilting the engine w/ the mounts and the TORX-55 engine bolt (took me like 3 hours to figure it out)
thanks for the help guys!

Fixed.

Don't need to fix every single word of mine thanks
