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So I'm going to be doing a head swap soon to a fully ported and polished head and will be using ARP head studs and ARP exhaust studs. I was wondering if anyone can either tell me or direct me to the correct torque spec and tightening sequence for these so I don't screw them up?

Save you come money, and get the intake manifold studs, and the exhaust manifold studs off an Ecotec 2.2 saturn/chevy motor.

I think 85lb/in is the norm for what people use. You need to follow the torque pattern and do it in three steps like: 25/50/85.

3,8,4,9,7,2,5,10,6,1
Lather, rinse, repeat. I did the DD's head with used bolts (Checked of course) and a ratchet. It's held together great for about 7k so far. Small steps.

No sense of wasting money on the ARP head bolts unless there cheaper than the OE head bolts. As for torqin them, use the Chrysler specs which is basically from the middle out and tighten them down to recomended torque. ARP provides the recomended Ft/Lb settings in all there hardware kits. Also Do Not use ARP head studs on our motors

Why not use the head studs? Thought they were superior to head bolts? I already bought head studs from Modern under the impression they were the better way to go?

farmboy wrote:Why not use the head studs? Thought they were superior to head bolts? I already bought head studs from Modern under the impression they were the better way to go?

There is not enough meat in the block to support head studs, also when torquing the head down using studs the head will shift not seating it properly and causing premature head gasket failure(per Ed Peters)
A local SRT owner found out the hard way when he rebuilt his engine and blew the gasket one week down the road.....
Chrysler head bolts have been proven time and time again to be quite strong...

Hmm, I've had the head off twice with mine and had no problems. If you plan on running high boost or anything with crazy peak cylinder pressures, they're almost a necessity to keep the head on.

I disagree, as the locating dowels will do their job regardless of the fastener used, and head studs won't stretch like bolts under high cylinder pressure. That's not to say that bolts in good condition aren't ridiculously tough though. I've just had good luck with studs at tons of power. I just pulled my head earlier in the week, and after a beating of almost 30psi, the gasket was sealing perfectly.

the info I got about the ARP's is 4years old so maybe things have changed since then. I did run 36psi on my old Daytona with Mopar performance headbolts and not studs so IDK....
If Erick states they work then all the power to ya