Synthetic Engine Oil
Synthetic Engine Oil
I use Valvoline Synpower 5W-30 full synthetic oil in my car. My question is, during the winter months when the temp is at or near freezing, should I use 0W-30 or just stick with what I am running now? Would the 0W-30 flow better at lower temperatures? I guess the reason I am asking this is I don't want to risk scuffing the cylinder walls and piston skirts. Ok to be honest I am an old dinosaur and don't fully understand the differences between the synthetics and dyno oils. Would somebody straighten me out here?
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Themaggots
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racer12306
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5w30 will be perfectly fine. 0w30 won't hurt either.
Shoot sticking with 10w30 is more than likely fine.
Shoot sticking with 10w30 is more than likely fine.
-Frank
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synthetic oil
Ok thanks guys. So if I understand correctly, the 5W-30 will be fine, that's acceptable. From what you are saying, the weights go along with conventional oils as to temp ranges, well, sorta lol. This is good info as have recently changed to a synthetic. Thanks again for helping me understand.
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occasional demons
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The synthetic flows far better at colder temps than the conventional oil. The "w" rating might be the same between conventional and synthetic, but the synthetic will out flow the same "w" rated conventional oil. Which means it is getting to the parts faster. But with any oil, you really don't need to worry too much about start up, as there is oil there, unless you only start it once every couple of years. Even then the oil will stay in the bearings to some extent.
I just pulled a 3.0 out of storage (Under a box in the woods) That has been there since 1998. It still spins fine. The Mobil 1 that was in there still looked ok, and it went right to the heads within seconds of cranking with the plugs out. I was honestly more amazed that the starter still turned.
Oh, and those that complain about the cost of a Mobil filter, there was only light surface rust after 12 years of Ohio weather. This was a loosely constructed wooden box with a Sundance hood on top. The one side had rotted away. I'd bet a Fram would have rotted through, as they rust on a running car. Now under normal use, this kind of durability would never be needed, but at least you know you are getting something for those added dollars.
Back on topic...
You can try the 0w-30 for kicks tho. I doubt you will see any change in oil pressure, as the added "flowability" lets the pump push more volume. As I have said before, my 4.0 jeep has better pressure at idle with the 0w, even at operating temp. This is synthetic 5w vs synthetic 0w-30. (Other than the first 1000 miles, synthetic is all the Jeep has had.)
I just pulled a 3.0 out of storage (Under a box in the woods) That has been there since 1998. It still spins fine. The Mobil 1 that was in there still looked ok, and it went right to the heads within seconds of cranking with the plugs out. I was honestly more amazed that the starter still turned.
Oh, and those that complain about the cost of a Mobil filter, there was only light surface rust after 12 years of Ohio weather. This was a loosely constructed wooden box with a Sundance hood on top. The one side had rotted away. I'd bet a Fram would have rotted through, as they rust on a running car. Now under normal use, this kind of durability would never be needed, but at least you know you are getting something for those added dollars.
Back on topic...
You can try the 0w-30 for kicks tho. I doubt you will see any change in oil pressure, as the added "flowability" lets the pump push more volume. As I have said before, my 4.0 jeep has better pressure at idle with the 0w, even at operating temp. This is synthetic 5w vs synthetic 0w-30. (Other than the first 1000 miles, synthetic is all the Jeep has had.)
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Oil weight is indeed the same from synthetic to conventional. I would imagine the reason that synthetic tends to flow better is due to the smoother, smaller particles. It is engineered to not only put up with more abuse and heat than standard oil, but to be an overall higher quality fluid physically, on a microscopic level of course.
Going with 0w-30 wouldn't be a bad idea, but only if you live in an extremely cold climate. If your car doesn't see under 20F on a regular basis, I wouldn't worry a bit.
Going with 0w-30 wouldn't be a bad idea, but only if you live in an extremely cold climate. If your car doesn't see under 20F on a regular basis, I wouldn't worry a bit.
-Derek
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synthetic oil
The car does see temps in the winter under 20 degrees for the most part. I live in the Tennessee Valley and the cold settles here. Just changed the oil but will try the 0W next time and compare the oil pressures. I see where you guys are coming from and I like the idea of oil getting to the nether reaches of the engine faster. Oil sooner means less wear. Thanks again.
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occasional demons
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Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap