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Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 11:48 am
Is there a difference between the head of a 2002 RT and a Base model 2001?
Reason I ask is that I may try to buy a 2002 RT thats for sale locally but he says that the head has been milled, I don't know how much but I am feeling cautious of this cuz I don't want any problems down the road. Currently I have a base 2001 that I could swap if they match up.
Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 12:11 pm
The head flows a bite better on the r/t but the 01 head will bolt on with no problems. Why was the head milled in the first place?
Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 12:14 pm
The exhaust ports are larger. But, the only consequence of it being milled, is you will need to run 92 or higher octane, and if it doesn't have an adjustable cam gear, the cam timing will be a little advanced.
(As the cam centerline drops, the timing belt tensioner pulls the slack, rotating the cam gear CCW.)
If it is only milled 0.10" or less it won't harm much. More than 0.20" and the cam timing should be corrected.
Your base neon head will bolt on tho. But you are looking at $100 more or less for a gasket, bolts, etc. I would leave it if it runs fine. Just don't put less than 89 octane in it.
Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 12:22 pm
I wish I knew why but it looks like he had some recent engine work here is the craigslist add
Very nice 2002 Dodge Neon R/T 108k Just had a new timing belt put in and had the head completely rebuilt, all new valves and seals and guides, head was milled, just the machine work on the head was $400, i have receipts for everything, Car runs great, Car could use rear shocks. Its a very nice car and very clean in and out, fully loaded, p/w, p/l, p/m, p/moonroof, rear spoiler, 2.0L 4-Cly HO, 5-spd, Alloy wheel's, Asking $3800 or best REASONABLE offer NO LOW BALLERS PRICE IS PRETTY FIRM I JUST DROPPED IT FROM $4500 !!!!
Not sure how much it was milled I tried emailing him but no answer yet.
Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 12:34 pm
This is what I am getting out of that:
The timing belt broke, and bent the valves. As long as the head was just refurbished to get the mating surface back to a good sealing surface, it prolly only had .001" to .005" taken off as a clean up pass, unless they told them to remove more.
It most likely only has either two or four valves replaced, and a valve job, new seals, possibly new guides.
The cam is a little better than standard, and the springs are better also. As long as it was taken to a reputable machine shop, and was installed properly, it should be fine.
Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 12:52 pm
My exact thoughts
Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 1:23 pm
Thats what I was thinking. My brothers Timing belt broke on his Talon and he needed all new valves etc.
So overall this I think if the work was done right this might be a good car to look into.
Posted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 11:55 pm
occasional demons wrote:The exhaust ports are larger. But, the only consequence of it being milled, is you will need to run 92 or higher octane, and if it doesn't have an adjustable cam gear, the cam timing will be a little advanced.
(As the cam centerline drops, the timing belt tensioner pulls the slack, rotating the cam gear CCW.)....
I thought as the cam gear rotates CCW, opposite normal crank rotation, the cam lobes (or centerline) lags behind crankshaft position. Wouldn't this be seen as retarding the cam timing? Please correct me if I am wrong...
Posted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:37 am
When looking at the "front" of the engine the crank rotates clockwise. Anything geared into the teeth side of the timing belt would rotated the same direction. So the cam gear(s) rotate clockwise with the crank gear.
The tenisioner pulls the cam gear(s) counterclockwise to take up slack, therefore causing the valves to open later in the cycle.
Posted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 1:00 pm
My brain was thinking backwards that day.