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I did a search and got overwhelmed by the hits... hence a new post.

So I recently got my 04 neon SE with 102K miles. I am getting the timing belt done shortly.

Should I also replace the engine mount (not the torque strut) that is on the passenger side supporting the engine weight? Whats the life span of these?. Is this mount the primary source of vibrations?

I feel some vibration when driving but I know that my upper torque strut is already bad.

I have ordered upper & lower torque struts (anchor ones from rockauto). But that engine mount (again anchor brand) is about 50 bucks in stores.

Is someone doing the timing belt for you or are you doing it yourself?

My suggested list of parts needed for a timing belt.

Timing belt.
Tensioner.
Waterpump.
New coolant.
Thermostat.
Both accessory belts.
Upper and lower torsion mounts.
I also did upper and lower radiator hoses, not really necessary though.

I would also suggest getting an upper gasket set done. In order to replace the head gasket, nearly everything for a timing belt must come out. Kill two birds with one stone and save yourself about 6 hours of labor.

Getting it done via a private mechanic who has done timing belt jobs on many of my friends cars.

I got all that covered except:
1. I am only changing the alternator belt. I figured the other PS pump & ac belt is easy to change & I can do it if needed alter.

2. No. I didn't plan for radiator hoses.

My question though was whether the engine mount should be changed (and if that's the one dampening majority of the vibrations).

I wouldn't worry about that mount. The vibration can be attributed to the torque arm condition and aliginment.

Change that mount without a doubt. That 'sumbitch will cause vibrations to all hell if it goes, no matter if the torque struts are NEW and properly aligned. I'm speaking from personal experience, and the experience of many others.

Interesting...I haven't seen one fail yet.

As a side note, I found out that the one on my car is fluid filled. On Juan's swap (ATX originally) it was just rubber. We swapped it for the SRT mount (also rubber).

The mounts have to be undone to get the timing belt out. My lower mount, after 120,000, had nothing connecting it to the bolt. It all ripped out. Just change it either way...

I can't see the fluid filled ones wearing out, unless the fluid oozes out. A rubber one would just plain dry rot, eventually. If you want to do it just for peace of mind, then is the time to do so. But if you are replacing that and the TS's, might as well take care of the trans mount too. It will become the weakest link.

darthroush wrote:Change that mount without a doubt. That 'sumbitch will cause vibrations to all hell if it goes, no matter if the torque struts are NEW and properly aligned. I'm speaking from personal experience, and the experience of many others.

x2. I'm wishing I would've changed mine now... The tech next to my dad said I should probably change it while we were in there but I said I'd rather not as I didn't have the money for it after just buying the SRT-4, $400 in parts and labor for the t-belt stuff, and being out of work for 3 months at the time.

I just got Anchor torque struts from rock auto and they look pretty good. I'm hoping those paired withe prothane race inserts will eliminate most of my vibrations

Danteneon wrote:Interesting...I haven't seen one fail yet.

As a side note, I found out that the one on my car is fluid filled. On Juan's swap (ATX originally) it was just rubber. We swapped it for the SRT mount (also rubber).

I personally haven't seen one that hasn't failed by about 100K. Very few live that far, or at least are still in great shape from what I've seen and heard.

sidepipe87 wrote:

darthroush wrote:Change that mount without a doubt. That 'sumbitch will cause vibrations to all hell if it goes, no matter if the torque struts are NEW and properly aligned. I'm speaking from personal experience, and the experience of many others.

x2. I'm wishing I would've changed mine now... The tech next to my dad said I should probably change it while we were in there but I said I'd rather not as I didn't have the money for it after just buying the SRT-4, $400 in parts and labor for the t-belt stuff, and being out of work for 3 months at the time.

I just got Anchor torque struts from rock auto and they look pretty good. I'm hoping those paired withe prothane race inserts will eliminate most of my vibrations

I replaced my torque struts when I got the car and have the street inserts (so, it's been about 2 years now). I got the mount replaced with the timing belt last July/August. It was torn to all hell. Replacing it got rid of all sorts of vibrations and noises. I still have some vibration from the inserts (though, I also need a computer "upgrade" for idle/AC RPM issues), but it is MUCH better than before. I got my new Anchor mount for...$30 or $40 off of Amazon along with the belt/WP kit. For how much it costs, and it being the last thing that comes out before the timing belt cover, save yourself (anyone) the hassle and time of getting back in there and change it then. Cheap insurance IMO, like replacing the WP.

This is mine after approximately 120,000 miles. Not too bad. I only replaced it because I had a lower mileage SRT unit to put in.

hm-mm two contradicting opinions.

I only ordered both torque mounts with timing belt kit. (Man... rockauto prices are almost half the prices in stores!)

Should this whole mount come out for the timing belt change? I figured that only the center bolt comes out. (again mine is a 04 SE @ 102K miles.)

I probably pick one from Advance auto and if the what have is bad, use the new one, else return it.

gcretro wrote:hm-mm two contradicting opinions.

More like two different experiences. Our opinions have no effect on our neons actions.

Just the bolt needs to come out, not the entire mount. I changed mine the hard way, after the timing belt change. But then I also did the trans mount at the same time. Two floor jacks and sliding the entire engine/trans to the driver side to get the mount out. Not for the faint of heart.

The mount is usually removed for extra clearance/space, but either way, it should not cost a penny more in labor cost to have the mechanic replace it, if that is what you are worried about. Same goes for the accessory belt tensioner pulley. That comes out too. It'll cost much more than $30 later to replace it if it goes bad between now and the next 100,000 miles.