New member. Timing changed.

gcretro · Post by **gcretro** » Mon Feb 07, 2011 10:16 am

I got the timing belt job done this weekend (done by a private mechanic).

Things changed:
Timing belt, water pump, timing belt tensioner, thermostat, alternator belt, new passenger side engine mount, both torque strut mounts, new accessory belt tensioner pulley. Did not change the accessory belt.

1. I kind of felt that the engine is louder sort of a deeper growl now. There isn't any whine or grinding sound that I can make out.

2. Vibration is reduced but I guess I expected more reduction. (I might take it in again after a week to re-align the mounts)

3. Should the ECU be reset after timing belt change? Will disconnecting the battery for 15 mins do it?

Thx

Post by **Canada** » Mon Feb 07, 2011 11:05 am

I would say that they likely didn't realign the torque struts after the job was completed. They likely just bolted them on in and said good enough.

No reason to need to reset the PCM.

gcretro · Post by **gcretro** » Mon Feb 07, 2011 12:38 pm

hmm, I hope it's that.

I am going to take the print out of the alignment procedure I found here and go to him after a few days of driving.

OB · Post by OB » Mon Feb 07, 2011 6:58 pm

Yeah it sounds like the alignment of the mounts is probably the issue. Should have little to no vibration if you're all stock. So you had the upper and lower torque struts changed, but did they do the transaxle mount? This too could be a source of vibration.

quicksilvr · Post by **quicksilvr** » Mon Feb 07, 2011 8:08 pm

If your car is an automatic, there comes a point in their lifespan where there is always a decent amount of felt vibration. Not that it's the transmission per say, but on automatic vehicles, after the years have loosened everything up, you simply feel all the stuff that you don't feel in a manual transmission.

gcretro · Post by **gcretro** » Mon Feb 07, 2011 11:34 pm

quicksilvr wrote:If your car is an automatic, there comes a point in their lifespan where there is always a decent amount of felt vibration. Not that it's the transmission per say, but on automatic vehicles, after the years have loosened everything up, you simply feel all the stuff that you don't feel in a manual transmission.

Nope. Only changed the two torque struts and the passenger side mount. (Since they were removed to do timing belt change). The old passenger side mount looked pretty decent. Torque struts were torn

1. Can the trans mount be inspected? Do i have to take the batt off for this and be able to look at it?

I do have quite a bit of vibration... around the passenger side. I had some coins in the passenger front door book slot and it was making ringing sound.

2. The alignment write up talks pretty much about one measurement on the upper torque mount. Does it matter if the bolts on the passenger side mounts are like over-tight? I don't think my mechanic used torque wrench.

And since he must have removed the passenger side mount completely, I am not sure if he marked the old location. Now is there a procedure or need to align this passenger mount or it's bracket by itself? is it adjustable?

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Feb 08, 2011 7:04 am

The center passenger side mount is just held in with 4 bolts. No alignment per say. Over tightening will not cause additional vibes from the TS's. If they come lose, there are worse worries.

gcretro · Post by **gcretro** » Tue Feb 08, 2011 11:25 am

There was another post here, where the OP said he had the top torque strut reversed left/right. And when he flipped it, the vibration disappeared. I am intrigued.

?

Edit: here is the that post.
viewtopic.php?t=14351&highlight=vibration

Also, Why does the old post talk about marking the position of the center mount in passenger side frame before removing? (if it has to room for alignment).

I looked at my old torque strut mount (which was OEM) and didn't find any Left /Right marks. It looked symmetrical to me.

And another thing: The aligment procedure I found in the other dodge fourms is longer than the sticky we have. http://dodgeforum.com/forum/1791399-post4.html

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Tue Feb 08, 2011 12:14 pm

gcretro wrote:And another thing: The aligment procedure I found in the other dodge fourms is longer than the sticky we have. http://dodgeforum.com/forum/1791399-post4.html

I made that sticky to be easy to read and understand. While both write ups were pulled from the same source, I simplified it a bit by removing some of the tiny details that Chrysler puts into all of their diag/repair procedures.

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Feb 08, 2011 12:15 pm

RIGHT MOUNT
REMOVAL
NOTE: The right engine mount attaching holes are
slightly oversize to compensate for manufacturing
tolerances. The mount has been set at the manufacturing
plant for proper powertrain alignment. Therefore,
it is necessary to mark the position of the
mount before the attaching bolts are loosened.
(2) Using a permanent ink marker or equivalent,
mark the position of engine mount to the body frame
rail.
(3) Remove bolts attaching mount to body (Fig.
99).
(4) Lower engine with jack.
(5) Postion right engine mount into timing belt
cover hole (Fig. 100).
(6) Raise engine with jack.
(7) Remove mount between engine and body frame
rail. Mount removal may require engine position to
be raised or lowered to allow mount removal clearance

INSTALLATION
(1) Postion right engine mount into timing belt
cover hole (Fig. 100).
(2) Lower engine with jack.
(3) Position the mount into the original position on
body frame rail (Fig. 99).
NOTE: Engine mount must be installed in the original
position on body frame rail. If mount was not
marked or frame rail was replaced, perform the following
procedure.
(4) Perform the following procedure if mount position
was not previously marked or the frame rail was
replaced:
(a) Insert the new mount loosely in frame rail.
(b) Align the four holes in the mount with the
mating holes in the rail such that the holes are
concentric (frame rail holes centered in the mount
holes).
(c) Using a permanent ink marker or equivalent,
mark the position of engine mount to the body
frame rail while maintaining mounting hole concentricity.
(5) Ensure the mount maintains originally marked
position and install mount bolts. Tighten bolts to 28
N·m (250 in. lbs.) (Fig. 99).
(6) Raise engine with jack.
(7) Install the engine mount bracket (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE MOUNTING/ENGINE MOUNT
BRACKET - INSTALLATION).
(8 ) Perform torque strut adjustment procedure
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE MOUNTING/
TORQUE STRUT - ADJUSTMENTS).

Damn, I just slapped mine in. Guess I got lucky enough...

Edit:

gcretro wrote:
I looked at my old torque strut mount (which was OEM) and didn't find any Left /Right marks. It looked symmetrical to me.

One end has a larger opening for more movement. The other is more solid. End "A" is the end that is more open.

gcretro · Post by **gcretro** » Tue Feb 08, 2011 12:42 pm

Thx.

hmm so since my timing belt job has already been done...
Is aligning this center mounts now quite job, labor I mean? I'll have to show these steps to my mechanic.

And what was the verdict on the top strut mount, does it have a left/right orientation. I didn't understand the response. (yeah I am aware the two ends are different size circles... but left/right.) I guess i can try that myself.

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Feb 08, 2011 3:28 pm

Top mount. The end facing you, is A

The little "tab" on the end goes towards the engine.

Actually, if you put an insert in, it will only really fit in the outside/away from the engine side.

gcretro · Post by **gcretro** » Tue Feb 08, 2011 5:35 pm

"The little "tab" on the end goes towards the engine. " - Ah that settles it. As soon as I reach home I'll check!

I hope it's the other way! and flipping it will stop all vibrations. (too good to be true IMHO. ).

. I bet my mechanic didn't make the position of the center mount bracket.