Long tube Question's

XxWhiteNeonxX · Post by **XxWhiteNeonxX** » Sat Feb 12, 2011 1:28 pm

Ive decided to buy a long tube. I guess im going to go with the obx since its stainless and has a bigger collector than the kirk.
Now onto the questions:

1) What kind of defouler should i buy? ( vibrant tunable, or the regular "L" shaped vibrant)
2) Since im no longer going to have a heat shield, would it be a good idea to get header wrap? Anybody know how many feet you get with the wrap from mpx?
3) If i run the defouler and then put a high flow cat onto the end, will it pass emissions?
4) Does it directly fit? Meaning is the length similar enough to the old cat/shorty header setup? Basically im asking, will it bolt right up to my midpipe or will the length be off and ill have to get it fitted?
5) do the stock manifold bolts work with the obx or do i need new ones?
6) anybody ever use the metal clamps mpx sells ( used for holding the wrap onto the header)

-Cody

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 10:55 am

XxWhiteNeonxX wrote:Ive decided to buy a long tube. I guess im going to go with the obx since its stainless and has a bigger collector than the kirk.
Now onto the questions:

1) What kind of defouler should i buy? ( vibrant tunable, or the regular "L" shaped vibrant)
2) Since im no longer going to have a heat shield, would it be a good idea to get header wrap? Anybody know how many feet you get with the wrap from mpx?
3) If i run the defouler and then put a high flow cat onto the end, will it pass emissions?
4) Does it directly fit? Meaning is the length similar enough to the old cat/shorty header setup? Basically im asking, will it bolt right up to my midpipe or will the length be off and ill have to get it fitted?
5) do the stock manifold bolts work with the obx or do i need new ones?
6) anybody ever use the metal clamps mpx sells ( used for holding the wrap onto the header)

-Cody

1 - I picked up my fouler at AutoZone, opened up the hole a little bit and my downstream O2 fit right in.
2 - Header wrap on a daily driver is not a good idea as the wrap will hold moisture in and cause the pipe to rust prematurely. SS aftermarket pipes will rust as they are not true 100% stainless....
3 - My R/T pcm passed emisions using the spark plug fouler without a problem and I had no cat installed
4 - LTH's require the midpipe to be modified as they typically have a 3 bolt header flange on them
5 - most aftermarket headers come with all needed hardware
6 - reffer to my answer #2

TheRandom1 · Post by **TheRandom1** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 11:17 am

Agreed header wrap on a DD is a bad idea.

gtxtreme19 · Post by **gtxtreme19** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 11:21 am

Yep these guys got it, if you do feel the need for the wrap just buy it at Autozone or o'reilly or something.

You could always get a heat shield for your coil and buy thermo tape for any close wires.

TheRandom1 · Post by **TheRandom1** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 11:24 am

Or make your own heat shield with a piece of aluminum and a couple of self-tapping screws.

XxWhiteNeonxX · Post by **XxWhiteNeonxX** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 1:04 pm

BlackRoseRacing wrote:
XxWhiteNeonxX wrote:Ive decided to buy a long tube. I guess im going to go with the obx since its stainless and has a bigger collector than the kirk.
Now onto the questions:

1) What kind of defouler should i buy? ( vibrant tunable, or the regular "L" shaped vibrant)
2) Since im no longer going to have a heat shield, would it be a good idea to get header wrap? Anybody know how many feet you get with the wrap from mpx?
3) If i run the defouler and then put a high flow cat onto the end, will it pass emissions?
4) Does it directly fit? Meaning is the length similar enough to the old cat/shorty header setup? Basically im asking, will it bolt right up to my midpipe or will the length be off and ill have to get it fitted?
5) do the stock manifold bolts work with the obx or do i need new ones?
6) anybody ever use the metal clamps mpx sells ( used for holding the wrap onto the header)

-Cody
1 - I picked up my fouler at AutoZone, opened up the hole a little bit and my downstream O2 fit right in.
2 - Header wrap on a daily driver is not a good idea as the wrap will hold moisture in and cause the pipe to rust prematurely. SS aftermarket pipes will rust as they are not true 100% stainless....
3 - My R/T pcm passed emisions using the spark plug fouler without a problem and I had no cat installed
4 - LTH's require the midpipe to be modified as they typically have a 3 bolt header flange on them
5 - most aftermarket headers come with all needed hardware
6 - reffer to my answer #2

Alright, so ill probably end up putting my high flow cat on the end.
My question is, If i do wrap it, how long will it take to " rust"?? I mean if it will take years, then im really not worried about it.

I mean since its going to be covered i really dont care if it gets surface rust.

as far as the midpipe needing to be modified, you said about it having a 3 bolt flange. Well when you buy it new it comes with the piece that goes from a 3 piece to a 2.5" pipe.

-Cody

TheRandom1 · Post by **TheRandom1** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 1:05 pm

It'll get surfact rust faster than it would regularly, however it cab actually rust completely through within a couple years.

XxWhiteNeonxX · Post by **XxWhiteNeonxX** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 3:32 pm

TheRandom1 wrote:It'll get surfact rust faster than it would regularly, however it cab actually rust completely through within a couple years.

idk if i should get the wrap or not. My friends floor gets hot with the kirk header, which is why i was going to wrap it

TheRandom1 · Post by **TheRandom1** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 3:37 pm

Really isn't a question... the answer is no you shouldn't. You can add a heat shield or extra crap to the floor to block the heat.

stairmaster3001 · Post by **stairmaster3001** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 3:39 pm

TheRandom1 wrote:Agreed header wrap on a DD is a bad idea.

why is that?

TheRandom1 · Post by **TheRandom1** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 3:40 pm

stairmaster3001 wrote:
TheRandom1 wrote:Agreed header wrap on a DD is a bad idea.
why is that?

See the thread you just commented in? Read it. Your question is explained at least twice.

JeffM · Post by **JeffM** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 3:44 pm

Get it ceramic coated. Done.

XxWhiteNeonxX · Post by **XxWhiteNeonxX** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 3:48 pm

JeffM wrote:Get it ceramic coated. Done.

dont have enough money. That probably cost an arm and a leg.

JeffM · Post by **JeffM** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 3:59 pm

XxWhiteNeonxX wrote:
JeffM wrote:Get it ceramic coated. Done.
dont have enough money. That probably cost an arm and a leg.

Honestly, the theory behind the idea that header wrap causes rust is based on the fact that the wrap WILL trap water and, over time, the water WILL cause rust. It doesn't mean that it'll automatically rust, but eventually, seeing as how you are smack-dab in the Rust Belt, it will.

Ceramic coating would be the best option, as it both locks water out and keeps temps down, but it's not cheap.

The easiest way (and cheapest) would be to spray the header with some high-temp paint, in-order to lock water out, and then wrap it. You'll want to unwrap it at least once every year to check on the condition of the header, lay down some fresh paint, and wrap it in new wrap. That would be the best way to keep it from rusting.

You're in the Rust Belt anyways, so it's going to rust, wrap or no wrap.

Post by **racer12306** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 7:02 pm

It's hard to find a good high temp paint that won't burn off of a header.

There are some DIY ceramic coating from your major performance parts suppliers.

Couple to try:

www.eastwood.com/

www.nomorerust.com/highheat/

www.summitracing.com

www.jegs.com

The other problem with header wrap is mold.

XxWhiteNeonxX · Post by **XxWhiteNeonxX** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 8:06 pm

ill probably just end up wrapping it.
If it rusts, it rusts

Post by **racer12306** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 8:16 pm

Sounds like a good way to waste a header.

TheRandom1 · Post by **TheRandom1** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 8:16 pm

So... why make a thread asking if you should do something if you ignore all the advice and plan on doing it anyways?

XxWhiteNeonxX · Post by **XxWhiteNeonxX** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 8:25 pm

well i dont want to take the time to ceramic coat it. And i also dont want to heat the shit out of my floor, which is why i want to wrap it.
And i made this thread to ask what? 6 or 7 questions? I didnt just make it to ask about the header wrap....

TheRandom1 · Post by **TheRandom1** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 8:31 pm

Yes, but one of your questions was header wrap and you are now planning to ignore our advice and do it anyways.

You were also given other solutions that won't kill your header so quickly that you seem to be ignoring.

Post by **racer12306** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 8:31 pm

The DIY kits don't look like they will take that long to do.

XxWhiteNeonxX · Post by **XxWhiteNeonxX** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 8:32 pm

TheRandom1 wrote:Yes, but one of your questions was header wrap and you are now planning to ignore our advice and do it anyways.

You were also given other solutions that won't kill your header so quickly that you seem to be ignoring.

well its all nice and shiny. i sure as hell dont want to sand it and paint it.

racer12306 wrote:The DIY kits don't look like they will take that long to do.

yeah, but who knows if its even good. I mean as far as i know nobody on here has ever used it or knows anyone who has.

TheRandom1 · Post by **TheRandom1** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 8:40 pm

XxWhiteNeonxX wrote:
well its all nice and shiny. i sure as hell dont want to sand it and paint it.

Very valid point. Holey rusted header covered in moldy wrap is a much better look.

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 9:03 pm

Don't wrap it. If you have carpet, you wont notice the heat. The outlet of the header is 2.5" and it comes with a turn under, you should be able to make it fit just fine. Start with just the high flow cat, add a non-fouler if you need it.

XxWhiteNeonxX · Post by **XxWhiteNeonxX** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 10:03 pm

invujerry wrote:Don't wrap it. If you have carpet, you wont notice the heat. The outlet of the header is 2.5" and it comes with a turn under, you should be able to make it fit just fine. Start with just the high flow cat, add a non-fouler if you need it.

thats what ill end up trying.

XxWhiteNeonxX · Post by **XxWhiteNeonxX** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 10:42 pm

btw, on my friends kirk header he had to extend the downstream o2 wires. Do i have to do that on the obx?

Haganracing · Post by **Haganracing** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 1:07 am

I like my LTH but its such a pain in the ass being lowered and trying to run a cat under the car.. I am just going to take the cat out lol

XxWhiteNeonxX · Post by **XxWhiteNeonxX** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 6:38 am

Haganracing wrote:I like my LTH but its such a pain in the ass being lowered and trying to run a cat under the car.. I am just going to take the cat out lol

why is it a pain to run a cat? my high flow is really small and doesnt have o2 holes. should be pretty simple

Fuzzyneon · Post by **Fuzzyneon** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 8:21 am

XxWhiteNeonxX wrote:
Haganracing wrote:I like my LTH but its such a pain in the ass being lowered and trying to run a cat under the car.. I am just going to take the cat out lol
why is it a pain to run a cat? my high flow is really small and doesnt have o2 holes. should be pretty simple

hagans is bigger i think and his exhuast "work" was not exaxcle up to par lol"

XxWhiteNeonxX · Post by **XxWhiteNeonxX** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 9:33 am

Fuzzyneon wrote:
XxWhiteNeonxX wrote:
Haganracing wrote:I like my LTH but its such a pain in the ass being lowered and trying to run a cat under the car.. I am just going to take the cat out lol
why is it a pain to run a cat? my high flow is really small and doesnt have o2 holes. should be pretty simple
hagans is bigger i think and his exhuast "work" was not exaxcle up to par lol"

that would eplain it... lol
so will i have to extend the downstream o2 wiress?

2GN.ORG

Long tube Question's

Long tube Question's

Re: Long tube Question's

Re: Long tube Question's