When I installed my new rockers, I just let them soak in oil. But then again, IIRC I cranked it without the plugs in to pre lube everything good before actually running it. Did you happen to look at the valve end of them, to be sure the orange plastic retainers and swivel foot pieces were still there?
Hudson_Neon wrote:well you have hydrolic lifters... so put new ones in? but the problem will only come back in the future. here's out of the FSM
ROCKER ARM / HYDRAULIC
LASH ADJUSTER ASSEMBLY
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC LASH
ADJUSTER NOISE DIAGNOSIS
A tappet-like noise may be produced from several
items. Check the following items.
(1) Engine oil level too high or too low. This may
cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause
them to be spongy.
(2) Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylinder
head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be
required.
(3) During this time, turn engine off and let set for
a few minutes before restarting. Repeat this several
times after engine has reached normal operating
temperature.
(4) Low oil pressure.
(5) The oil restrictor (integral to the head gasket)
in the vertical oil passage to the cylinder head is
plugged with debris.
(6) Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked
oil pump pick up.
(7) Worn valve guides.
(8 ) Missing swivel foot on lash adjuster.
(9) Incorrect rocker shaft installation.
(10) Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maximum
extension and still leaves lash in the system.
(11) Faulty lash adjuster.
² Check lash adjusters for sponginess while
installed in cylinder head. Depress part of rocker
arm over adjuster. Normal adjusters should feel very
firm. Spongy adjusters can be bottomed out easily.
² Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace as
necessary.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove cylinder head cover.
(2) Identify the rocker arm shaft assemblies before
removal.
(3) Loosen the attaching fasteners. Remove rocker
arm shaft assemblies from cylinder head.
(4) Identify the rocker arms spacers and retainers
for reassembly. Disassemble the rocker arm assemblies
by removing the attaching bolts from the shaft
(Fig. 25).
(5) Slide the rocker arms and spacers off the shaft.
Keep the spacers and rocker arms in the same location
for reassembly.
INSPECTION
(1) Inspect the rocker arm for scoring, wear on the
roller or damage to the rocker arm (Fig. 26). Replace
as necessary.
(2) Check the location where the rocker arms
mount to the shafts for wear or damage. Replace if
damaged or worn.
(3) The rocker arm shaft is hollow and is used as a
lubrication oil duct. Check oil holes for clogging with
small wire, clean as required.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Set crankshaft to 3 notches before TDC
before installing rocker arm shafts. Refer to Timing
Belt System and Camshaft Seal Service of this section
for procedure.
(1) Lubricate the rocker arms and spacers. Install
onto shafts in their original position (Fig. 25).
(2) Install rocker arm/hydraulic lash adjuster
assembly making sure that adjusters are at least
partially full of oil. This is indicated by little or no
plunger travel when the lash adjuster is depressed. If
there is excessive plunger travel. Place the rocker
arm assembly into clean engine oil and pump the
plunger until the lash adjuster travel is taken up. If
travel is not reduced, replace the assembly. Hydraulic
lash adjuster and rocker arm are serviced as an
assembly.
(3) Install rocker arm and shaft assemblies with
NOTCH in the rocker arm shafts pointing up and
toward the timing belt side of the engine (Fig. 27).
Install the retainers in their original positions on the
exhaust and intake shafts (Fig. 25).
CAUTION: When installing the intake rocker arm
shaft assembly be sure that the plastic spacers do
not interfere with the spark plug tubes. If the spacers
do interfere rotate until they are at the proper
angle. To avoid damaging the spark plug tubes, do
not attempt rotating the spacers by forcing down
the shaft assembly.
(4) Verify that hydraulic lash adjuster swivel feet
are still in place.
(5) Tighten bolts to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.) in
sequence shown in (Fig. 28 ).
(6) Install the cylinder head cover
Or, you could try this...
2kLX wrote:This is for "click" or "tick tick tick tick"-prone 2.0-liter 2nd-gen SOHC engines only... I recommend doing this right before an oil change to make it easier. Always remember to remove the negative battery terminal and never reconnect power until you are done.
... And just remember, nothing is more embarassing than starting up your car at work on a cool morning or evening and all of your co-workers making jokes about how you have a sewing machine stuck under your hood!
The purpose of this is to reduce wear and noise in the valvetrain due to **** engineering and assembly at the factory, by modifying two things: the way oil flows between the rockers, and eliminating EXCESSIVE spacing/gaps between the rockers and their corresponding spacers.
1. Remove your valve cover with a 10mm socket.
2. Inspect all of your rockers, head, and cam lobes for buildup, excessive wear, etc.
3. Find the 10 different bolts that hold the flat rectangular spacers on top of the rocker-arm pivot shafts... there should be 5 on the exhaust shaft and 5 on the intake. They are located on the ends and inbetween each rocker arm.
4. Clean the head of each bolt and mark it's position with a paint marker... with a slight mark on the corresponding spacer as well. This is for later referrence when everything is re-assembled so you know where you are going to re-torque your bolts to without stripping them out.
5. Grab a hold of each rocker arm and try sliding it side-to-side on the arm (driver's side to passenger's side and back again)... you will probably find that some of them "slap" back and forth against the spacers, and now you can see where your excessive cold-start "slapping," or "ticking" comes from.
SOLUTION:
6. Using a 10mm socket, remove ONE of the bolts and the spacer that it was holding down. DO NOT remove more than one spacer at a time, and only remove another spacer after the previous spacer has been previously bolted back down and torque'd correctly. This will prevent misalignment of the rocker shafts. I recommend removing the CENTER bolt and spacer first so you will be able to slightly realign them when you bolt them back on to your motor.
7. With one spacer out, notice the edges of the spacer that the rocker arms slide and rotate against. On these edges, you will want to find the edge on each side that corners itself against the rocker and the shaft. Take a file and slightly rub the metal away at a 45-degree angle to remove about 0.5mm of metal from these two edges. Basically, you are creating a slight gap for extra oil to travel through while the rocker-arms are actuating later.
8. Once you've cleaned all the shavings off of the spacer, saturate it in oil and re-install it back onto the shaft in the same position it was in before you removed it (this positioning will apply ONLY to the center spacer on the intake side and the center spacer on the exhaust side).
9. Now, working your way outward, remove the spacers one at a time and file them the same way on both sides removing 0.5mm or less from the same corners on either side, and reinstall them before removing the next spacer... You want to contantly work your way outward, taking one spacer from the left, then one from the right, etc etc. As you re-install the four outer spacers on each arm, you want to inspect the gap that the rocker arms will be "riding" in, between the corresponding spacers. If the gaps are too wide, the rocker arm will move back and forth and "slap" up against the spacers while the engine is running. A little bit of space is okay and in fact necessary... if the spacers are reinstalled and the spacers are too tight against and "pinching" the rocker to restrict it's movement, you will create excessive heat and have engine damage and failure! The point is that you may have to slide or turn some of these spacers in towards the center of the engine as you reinstall them, slightly closer than their original position before you started. You want to leave a small gap for each rocker to "ride" in. I found more "play" in my rockers on the passenger-side before I started, and had to work the outer spacers on that side to the center slightly more, to reduce the amount of "walking" that the rockers were doing on the shaft.
After you are done, you should be able to grab a hold of each rocker and wiggle it slightly, hearing a small click as it slaps back and forth against each spacer. You should NOT hear a loud "SNAP, BAM," or anything like that, or see a lot of excessive movement back and forth... if you do, something is wrong with your engine. Remember, the point of doing all of this was for two reasons: First, to allow slightly more oil to creep over the rocker shaft into the side-seems of the rockers while the motor is running. Second, to slightly close the gaps between the one or two rockers that you find that simply have just too much space to slide back and forth in. The extra passage of oil from the corner-edges that you removed will also act as a hydraulic cushion as your rockers move side-to-side and prevent them for premature failure or excessive metal/metal wear, and "clicking."
I did this to my car 500 miles ago and it runs great, and I have not had a single "tick tick tick" on a cold start ever since. Basically, the guys at the factory just don't pay close enough attention when installing these or properly gapping anything. I personally think that the spacers could have been a few thousandths of an inch wider, but luckily there is enough room in the bolt holes to walk them in to slightly re-align them as described above. Anyway, for those of you who try this, you'll find it much easier than it sounds and if you pay attention and do everything right, I'm sure you'll be as pleased as I am with it.
This is a job I can do and will at least check it out. Does the FSM give a spec for the gap between the spacer and rocker? Thanks in advance sir.