belt tensioner done...still whine?

Silver2gn4me · Post by **Silver2gn4me** » Tue Dec 27, 2005 9:24 pm

Anybody had to change theirs?? Mine is bad and I am thinking about doing it myself. The tensioner is only $40. But I dont want to get it to something I cant do myself. Any help would be awesome!!
**Completed install last night. Took about 2.5hrs. Everything whent great. Now my car doesnt sound like its supercharged. Next job UDP!! Thanks for all the input and help guys!!**

Post by **Diablo0** » Tue Dec 27, 2005 9:33 pm

Which tensioner? The timing belt tensioner or the accessory drive belt tensioner?

Silver2gn4me · Post by **Silver2gn4me** » Tue Dec 27, 2005 9:45 pm

Sorry, it's the one that runs the ps pump...etc, I guess that would be accessory.

Drvr02RT · Post by **Drvr02RT** » Wed Dec 28, 2005 2:05 am

Fair Warning: that motor mount bracket plate is a PITA to remove. It took me and my buddy about 2hrs to replace his, I've heard its best to have to people while doing this, one taking the bolts out and another working the jack...lots of up and downs.

Kernel Panic · Post by **Kernel Panic** » Wed Dec 28, 2005 9:24 am

The real bitch is that bolt dead center of the plate going to the motor mount. If you have an engine hoist it will be alot easier to move the engine around than using a jack.

Silver2gn4me · Post by **Silver2gn4me** » Wed Dec 28, 2005 10:13 pm

OK, so would I be better off paying someone to install it?? I dont think I have access to a hoist. I cant be without my car for more than a day. "Drvr02RT" did you guys get it done?? Was it whinning real bad?? My car sounds like it has a supercharger it whines so loud. Thanks for the input guys......I am thinking about trying it next weekend if I can.

Drvr02RT · Post by **Drvr02RT** » Thu Dec 29, 2005 12:48 am

Yes, we got it finished in under 2 hours. Actually, my buddys just kept throwing belts and eating them, after we removed the old bracket plate we looked at the tensioner wheel and the entire inside of it was gone. Its def. a DIY job.

Silver2gn4me · Post by **Silver2gn4me** » Thu Dec 29, 2005 9:27 pm

Cool...thanks! I ordered the part today. Ill let you guys know how it goes.......

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Fri Dec 30, 2005 5:15 pm

ENGINE MOUNT - RIGHT
REMOVAL
Remove accessory drive belts. Refer to Group 7, Cooling System for procedure.
Remove crankshaft damper. Refer to procedure in this section.
Remove upper and lower engine torque struts. Refer to procedure in this section.
Support engine with a suitable jack.
Remove bolt access cover and bolt attaching the right engine mount to mount bracket Engine Mount To Bracket Bolt
Remove engine mount bracket. Refer to procedure in this section
NOTE: The right engine mount attaching holes are slightly oversize to compensate for manufacturing tolerances. The mount has been set at the manufacturing plant for proper powertrain alignment. Therefore, it is necessary to mark the position of the mount before the attaching bolts are loosened.

Using a permanent ink marker or equivalent, mark the position of engine mount to the body frame rail.
Remove bolts attaching mount to body Engine Mount - Right
Remove mount between engine and body frame rail. Mount removal may require engine position to be raised or lowered to allow mount removal clearance.
INSTALLATION
Position mount into the original position on body frame rail Engine Mount - Right
NOTE: Engine mount must be installed in the original position on body frame rail. If mount was not marked or frame rail was replaced, perform the following procedure.

Perform the following procedure if mount position was not previously marked or the frame rail was replaced:
Insert new mount loosely in frame rail.
Align the four holes in the mount with the mating holes in the rail such that the holes are concentric (frame rail holes centered in the mount holes)
Using a permanent ink marker or equivalent, mark the position of engine mount to the body frame rail while maintaining mounting hole concentricity.
Ensure the mount maintains originally marked position and install mount bolts. Tighten bolts to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.) Engine Mount - Right
Install engine mount bracket. Refer to procedure in this section.
Install bolt attaching right engine mount to bracket and tighten to 118 N·m (87 ft. lbs.) Engine Mount To Bracket Bolt
Remove support from under engine.
Install upper and lower engine torque struts. Refer to procedure in this section.
Install crankshaft damper. Refer to procedure in this section.
Install accessory drive belts. Refer to Group 7, Cooling System for procedure.

Hope that helps ya

Silver2gn4me · Post by **Silver2gn4me** » Mon Jan 02, 2006 8:00 pm

That is awesome black rose. Thanks. That is going to help a BUNCH!! Where did you get that?? Your FSM?? I need to get one of those. Where could I find one??

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 5:24 am

Find what?
I work for DCx, so I have access to service and parts manuals online

Silver2gn4me · Post by **Silver2gn4me** » Sun Jan 08, 2006 9:21 pm

A factory service manual. BUt if you work for DCX I guess you wouldnt need one. LOL. But do you know where I could get one??

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 5:49 am

Honestly
There is a 1-800 number any dealer can provide you to order service manuals, repair manuals, paper back...CD..etc
I just dont have the number here at home

Silver2gn4me · Post by **Silver2gn4me** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 9:40 pm

OK..I have had my tensioner on for about 3 weeks now. I noticed the other day my car starting to whine a little again. I also have to do some MM inserts because the upper one is not connected to middle part anymore. Could this be causing a whine. I have a new PS pump, tensioner and new PS lines. It seems to get louder when I turn.....any ideas?

Silver2gn4me · Post by **Silver2gn4me** » Tue Jan 31, 2006 10:31 pm

Anybody have any ideas on this. I know that the mount will not cause whine, but could it be putting extra strain on the PS pump and tensioner?

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Wed Feb 01, 2006 8:19 pm

It could be possible that the tensioner was deffective and you need to replace it again. My car did the whine, I replaced belts, PS pump, and then finally a tensioner to cure the problem.
For shits and giggles, while the motor is running, spray the belts with a little bit of WD40, if the noise is still there...hit the tensioner pulley with it too. WD can bandaid some belts, but helps narrow down some pulley problems. Or atleast it does in my experience with 4's,6's,and 8's...

Silver2gn4me · Post by **Silver2gn4me** » Wed Feb 01, 2006 9:16 pm

I got the tensioner from the dealership. Does it have a warranty?? I hope it isnt bad! I will try the WD40 tomorrow. Does your car whine at all. Mine used to whine at idle with the bad tensioner. Now it whines while I am driving and turning...???

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Thu Feb 02, 2006 6:07 am

from what your saying it sounds like the PS pump is bad...
But you said you just put a new one on it

Mopar parts carry a 1 year/ Umlimited mileage warranty from the origional purchase date.
If your lookingfor a PS pump, I have one sitting here off an 04 wreck that just needs a resvoir. The wreck had 4k miles on it. PM me if your interested...

Silver2gn4me · Post by **Silver2gn4me** » Thu Feb 02, 2006 7:36 pm

Yea I replaced my PS pump when I thought that was making the whine. Does the warranty still apply if I installed the part myself?

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Thu Feb 02, 2006 8:32 pm

Yes, as long as you have your receit from when you purchased it you will be fine....
Otherwise, the average dealer will say...without a receit your SOL..

Silver2gn4me · Post by **Silver2gn4me** » Fri Feb 03, 2006 9:54 am

Damn! I think I tossed the receipt. I will try and find it today. So you think I might have a bad tensioner again??

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Fri Feb 03, 2006 6:35 pm

just because its new, does not mean it will work...