R/T intake manifold actuator.

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Kelevra
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R/T intake manifold actuator.

Post by Kelevra » Sun Jun 12, 2011 6:27 pm

well, I managed to get the actuator off and it's not the butterflies binding. it's the actuator. it's touch as hell to move and it didn't kick over when I put power to it. (Thought I haven't tried with it off the manifold). I'm not sure if I can blast it with some oil (WD-40, PB blaster, or a silicone based 'dry lube') and hope that may work or I might need a new actuator. if anyone has one that is in working condition, please, let me know and maybe we can work out a deal :thumbup:

There will also be a wtb thread for this :lol:
Last edited by Kelevra on Wed Jun 15, 2011 7:16 pm, edited 3 times in total.

stdlystdmufn
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Post by stdlystdmufn » Sun Jun 12, 2011 6:34 pm

$5.99
i have reused mine in a pinch but i would deffinately replace it for $6
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Sun Jun 12, 2011 8:18 pm

Did you try moving them with the actuator removed?
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

Kelevra
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Post by Kelevra » Sun Jun 12, 2011 8:21 pm

I can't get the actuator off.. the bolts are tough.. I only have a hand wrench.. no socket.

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Sun Jun 12, 2011 9:27 pm

Soak them with penetrating oil. You don't want to break them off. Put the wrench on the screw, and tap it with a small hammer or another wrench, to help break them loose. Once you get them loose, carefully separate the actuator, to take note of the connector spring orientation.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

Kelevra
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Post by Kelevra » Wed Jun 15, 2011 7:16 pm

bump for new problem

alsey_seven
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Post by alsey_seven » Wed Jun 15, 2011 11:17 pm

i think u can still get a new one from dealer
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Kelevra
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Post by Kelevra » Thu Jun 16, 2011 12:52 am

not paying $190 for a brand new one!

alsey_seven
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Post by alsey_seven » Thu Jun 16, 2011 1:08 am

got one quoted for 120.00
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000043 For 2000 neon

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000125 For 2001 R/T


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Kelevra
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Post by Kelevra » Thu Jun 16, 2011 1:22 am

alsey_seven wrote:got one quoted for 120.00
i don't really want to pay any more then 100 really.. lol

alsey_seven
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Post by alsey_seven » Thu Jun 16, 2011 1:38 am

lol but sometimes its better brand new and forget about it. Would you ever buy a used water pump and install it in your car :rofl:
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000043 For 2000 neon

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000125 For 2001 R/T


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Kelevra
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Post by Kelevra » Thu Jun 16, 2011 1:42 am

alsey_seven wrote:lol but sometimes its better brand new and forget about it. Would you ever buy a used water pump and install it in your car :rofl:
for a part that vital to operation HELL NO!.

To compare an intake actuator to a water pump isn't a very good comparison imo :rofl:

alsey_seven
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Post by alsey_seven » Thu Jun 16, 2011 2:02 am

don't you think any part of the engine is vital.... :rockon: reason I'm saying about that actuator. is that once its on the intake you don't have to worry for a long time before it breaks again. Time is Vital less time working on the car and more time driving is more important. :rockon: :tardbang: well that might just be me :D
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000043 For 2000 neon

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000125 For 2001 R/T


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Kelevra
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Post by Kelevra » Thu Jun 16, 2011 2:13 am

Here is my way of thinking:

Water pump: Circulates the engine coolant to efficiently cool the engine and prevent it from overheating. If it fails you lose efficiency of the cooling systems and thus the car overheats. Also runs the risk of locking up, skipping timing and making your already bad day worse!

R/T intake actuator: Opens and closes butterfly valves in the R/T intake providing more/less air at variying RPMs. If it fails you lose operation of the valves and lose HP.

Lets look at replacement!

Water pump: 3-6 hours playing in the passenger wheel well and playing the jack game redoing timing to make sure everything will run properly and not break itself

R/T intake acuator 1-2 hours replacing actuator motor on the passenger side of the manifold


Yes. I am that bored

quicksilvr
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Post by quicksilvr » Thu Jun 16, 2011 5:13 pm

alsey_seven wrote:got one quoted for 120.00

Hm....where was this? I've got a spare one that is bad that I'm trying to fix, but that's because I didn't think you could get one for less than $300.....
-Dave
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Thu Jun 16, 2011 9:14 pm

4884094AB MOTOR MANIFOLD TUNING MSRP $174.00

Still not cheap. :lol:
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

quicksilvr
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Post by quicksilvr » Thu Jun 16, 2011 9:46 pm

occasional demons wrote:4884094AB MOTOR MANIFOLD TUNING MSRP $174.00

Still not cheap. :lol:

Eh. $174.....$300....same thing. :lol: I probably saw the $174 price tag a long time ago, and simply stored it in my brain as: "Too Expensive".




Kelevra: You can take the actuator apart and clean it. Sometimes that does the trick. First step is to take it off the manifold. Then use a razor knife and cut the 4 little hard plastic "rivets" that are showing through the metal base plate. Those are what hold the plastic case on. After you cut those rivets off, the case will pry off. However, it's sealed with some RTV like stuff, so the first time you pry it off, it's a little tough.

Take it apart and see what it looks like.
-Dave
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2001 Dodge Neon R/T

Kelevra
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Post by Kelevra » Fri Jun 17, 2011 6:45 am

took it apart. coils look clean but I think the shaft is seized. I tried lubing it up and working it. it's too far gone for that simple fix. Someone may be able to revive it, but without the knowledge of small electric motors I'm sunk and don't know what to do. Nitehawk is handing me his actuator at Carlisle, so I'm back in business. if someone wants the one I have to tinker with and see if they can revive it they're welcome to. otherwise it's going in the trash.

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Fri Jun 17, 2011 8:17 am

Meh, bring it to Carlisle.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

Kelevra
2GN Member
Posts: 1399
Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2007 2:31 pm

Post by Kelevra » Fri Jun 17, 2011 8:29 am

new plan: It's going to quicksilvr for repair and if it's fixable I'm getting it back for a spare!

I will bring it to carlisle though to see if someone can revive it before I ship it there.

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