How do I install my Crankshaft Timing Sprocket?

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Cokedoctor
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How do I install my Crankshaft Timing Sprocket?

Post by Cokedoctor » Thu Aug 18, 2011 12:14 am

I need to install my new crankshaft timing sprocket onto my crankshaft, on my 2.4 I'm building. I know there's a specific tool you need, but I was wondering if any of you have done it without the tool, what technique you used. I'm all ears. Also...if you did use the tool, where did you get it? Thanks!

Justin
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Post by OB » Thu Aug 18, 2011 1:54 am

viewtopic.php?t=58736

Somehow this guy seems to be selling exactly what you're looking for. Unless they are different tools for 2.0 and 2.4, but I doubt it.

Don't try to install it without the right tool, that is an item you want to install properly (IMHO).
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Post by sidepipe87 » Thu Aug 18, 2011 8:03 am

Not available anymore OB. I bought that miller tool from chad.
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Post by occasional demons » Thu Aug 18, 2011 9:39 am

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Post by Cokedoctor » Thu Aug 18, 2011 12:52 pm

sidepipe87 wrote:Not available anymore OB. I bought that miller tool from chad.
Can I borrow it?
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Post by sidepipe87 » Thu Aug 18, 2011 1:19 pm

I didn't even get it yet lol. I need it for the motor I'm building right now.
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Post by Cokedoctor » Thu Aug 18, 2011 1:21 pm

sidepipe87 wrote:I didn't even get it yet lol. I need it for the motor I'm building right now.
HAHAHA! Alright, all I'm waiting for is this tool to install my sprocket so I can get the rest of the engine buttoned up.

How soon will you be using it once you receive it? Would you be cool with lending it to me, once your done with it?

I'd rather not spend almost $50 on a tool I'm rarely ever going to use. Borrowing seems more logical to me. Thanks...let me know.


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Post by occasional demons » Thu Aug 18, 2011 1:54 pm

You could get some threaded rod, two washers a nut, and some grease between the washers. Or if you can find a .500" I.D. thrust bearing, you're in business. I got all the parts from Mc Master, but with shipping, I still spent $30. And I don't have that fancy push cup. Shipping was ~$10 so if you can go local, you might have $20ish in it.

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Post by Cokedoctor » Thu Aug 18, 2011 1:58 pm

How far in do I press the sprocket in? Will it stop when I'm where I need to be?
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Post by BoostinBen » Thu Aug 18, 2011 4:11 pm

Cokedoctor wrote:How far in do I press the sprocket in? Will it stop when I'm where I need to be?
That's why I recommend the tool...

You press it on too far and your timing belt will rub. That's a critical sprocket that needs to be pressed on properly. If you can do it correctly with a hackjob creation of washers and the like then go for it. I myself bought the tools on eBay for like $120 (both for the harmonic balancer and the crankshaft sprocket) just because I wasn't going to take a chance.

Do you have any friends at dealerships who could hook you up with one of the special tools? That's how I get my DRBII stuff done ;)
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Post by Cokedoctor » Thu Aug 18, 2011 4:15 pm

BlackRoseRacing (Chris) is my cousin, and he works at a Chrysler dealer. But I don't like asking him to bring a special tool home from work that doesn't belong to him. I also work for a franchise of dealerships, which includes Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep/...and now Fiat but I don't work at that store. It's unlikely they would just let me take it.
'13 Chrysler 300S 5.7 AWD - the financial burden
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Post by BoostinBen » Thu Aug 18, 2011 7:52 pm

http://www.toolsource.com/crank-sprocke ... 99112.html

Then sell it after using it. Or check eBay for even cheaper prices for used ones (again, that's where I got mine).
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Post by ZeroChad » Thu Aug 18, 2011 7:55 pm

Before I had the tool, I installed it without it. Inevitably, it wasn't seated in far enough. This caused me to toss alternator belts and for the timing belt to track off the cam gear for 2yr.

I just heated it up and slapped it on. Off course it went on backwards the first time (my friend did it). So I had to tap the holes to pull it off again since they aren't threaded all the way through.
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Post by occasional demons » Fri Aug 19, 2011 8:43 am

Just for reference, if you are taking it apart, measure the distance between the cover and sprocket with feeler gauges. Then when reinstalling use those gauges to st the depth. You will have to be careful not to pinch them in there tho. But going slowly it shouldn't be too difficult. You might be a few thousandths off, but I doubt that is enough to matter.

Building it from parts is another matter, then you need the cup that only presses it on till the cup bottoms.

I have used my homemade tool more than a few times now, So I don't regret spending the $.
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Post by Cokedoctor » Fri Aug 19, 2011 8:45 am

Yeah I'm building from parts, so I have no idea what the gap should be. Therefore...the tool is necessary.
'13 Chrysler 300S 5.7 AWD - the financial burden
'95 Dodge Neon NYG ACR SRT Coupe - 1 of 98
'86 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - all original
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Post by occasional demons » Fri Aug 19, 2011 9:49 am

Those that have the tool could use the depth gauge on a micrometer, and get the distance needed from the end of the crank snout. (Or someone who has a 2.4 apart down to the crank pulley) Then you would just need a piece of pipe cut to that length, and use it to shove the pulley in place. A lathe would be needed to get it right tho.
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Post by Chris04sxt » Fri Aug 19, 2011 11:13 am

Check your local parts store..(Advanced, Pep Boys, Napa) most have tool loaner programs where you give them a deposit that you get back when you return the tool. That's what I usually do for specialty tools that I'm only going to use once every once in a while, if ever again.
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Post by Cokedoctor » Sun Aug 21, 2011 2:50 pm

Chris04sxt wrote:Check your local parts store..(Advanced, Pep Boys, Napa) most have tool loaner programs where you give them a deposit that you get back when you return the tool. That's what I usually do for specialty tools that I'm only going to use once every once in a while, if ever again.
This would be a dealer specific tool. Not something you'd find at Autoblow or Pepbois.
'13 Chrysler 300S 5.7 AWD - the financial burden
'95 Dodge Neon NYG ACR SRT Coupe - 1 of 98
'86 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - all original
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Post by BoostinBen » Sun Aug 21, 2011 9:10 pm

^^this

They won't carry a dealer-specific tool.
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Post by occasional demons » Wed Aug 24, 2011 10:11 pm

The distance from the end of the crank, to the sprocket is 26mm. This is the surface from the crank to the lip, not the lip.

So you would need a tube cut to 26mm with a heavy washer welded onto the end. Big enough to fit over the crank, and thick enough to push the crank pulley. Then you can shove it on, with what ever set up you have.

(Had to do an emergency timing belt change on the daughter's 1gn, so I figured I would get that measurement.)
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Post by Cokedoctor » Wed Aug 24, 2011 10:42 pm

occasional demons wrote:This is the surface from the crank to the lip, not the lip.
:shock:
'13 Chrysler 300S 5.7 AWD - the financial burden
'95 Dodge Neon NYG ACR SRT Coupe - 1 of 98
'86 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - all original
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Post by occasional demons » Wed Aug 24, 2011 11:16 pm

What I meant was the lip that guides the belt. It sticks out a little, so if you went by that, it would be too far in. Basically you are going just past one inch inward. Not sure how hard it is to press on. I don't see it being as tight as the damper, as it is keyed.

Found a pic, can always rely on the pic whore!
The lip to the front is what I meant.
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Post by Cokedoctor » Wed Aug 24, 2011 11:38 pm

I'd rather just have the tool.
'13 Chrysler 300S 5.7 AWD - the financial burden
'95 Dodge Neon NYG ACR SRT Coupe - 1 of 98
'86 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - all original
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000123

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