2.4L SOHC Conversion Kit

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2.4L SOHC Conversion Kit

Post by Public Disturbance » Sat Nov 19, 2011 1:44 pm

So for you guys that are interested in it here it is
http://www.dcrsrt.com/index.php?act=vie ... ductId=161
I called DCR and talked to Jennifer they said the kit comes with timing belt, and everything you need in billet aluminum. I would guess your best bet would be a preNGC bottom end with SRT4 or aftermarket internals if your looking for strength, or if you wanted to mess with drilling and welding the block you could use a newer 2.4 bottom end. Jennifer said price was 600 bucks shipped which isnt bad if you look at the cost of the 2.2 stroker kit for the SOHC which is at around 1600 bucks.

When I asked how much power it made Jennifer put Darrell on the line and he said that with a 2.4 punched .020" over so pretty much a 2.5L Standard SOHC head, long tube header, and a cold air intake they made 167whp and 186wtq. Sound like that would be a decent street neon. Just thought I would post this information for you guys since some people have asked about it.

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Post by Danteneon » Sat Nov 19, 2011 1:55 pm

This is what I was afraid of. What exactly do you get for your $600? A timing belt and a cam spacer?
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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Post by Public Disturbance » Sat Nov 19, 2011 2:12 pm

Danteneon wrote:What exactly do you get for your $600? A timing belt and a cam spacer?
From what I understood from Jennifer it came with the 5 layer head gasket, billet cam gear spacer, billet tensioner, and a aftermarket cam gear, correct length timing belt.
Danteneon wrote:This is what I was afraid of.
Not quite sure how to take this, all I was trying to do was post some information that I found thinking since I have seen a couple post asking about it. Sure you will make more power doing a DOHC but maybe someone want to do a 2.4 SOHC and I thought instead of having 584 post about how do you do it now they can search and have a link to a place they can get the stuff they need. Is 600 bucks a little steep for what you get.... Ya maybe a little but it saves some time to it all comes down to what the person interesed in doing it wants and what they are willing to spend.

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Post by Danteneon » Sat Nov 19, 2011 2:27 pm

Don't get me wrong. I am building a 2.4 SOHC turbo, and while this "kit" would be nice, the only parts you really need are the cam gear spacer and a timing belt that isn't 3/4" wide. I just can't understand what makes DCX think $600 is reasonable.
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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Post by INVUJerry » Sat Nov 19, 2011 2:49 pm

There is a Mazda timing belt that fits perfectly. It's on neons.org somewhere.

If you find an AEM cam gear, you can use a JeffB#2 spacer for it.

It's easy to do, just not worthwhile.
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Post by Danteneon » Sat Nov 19, 2011 3:07 pm

INVUJerry wrote:There is a Mazda timing belt that fits perfectly. It's on neons.org somewhere.
Yep, that's the 3/4" belt I was talking about. It's just a bit too narrow for my liking.
INVUJerry wrote:If you find an AEM cam gear, you can use a JeffB#2 spacer for it.
And that would be said spacer :)
INVUJerry wrote:It's easy to do, just not worthwhile.
And that, my dear friend, is were we differ :lol:
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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Post by neonrt_98 » Sat Nov 19, 2011 3:09 pm

All the aftermarket SOHC 2.0L and DOHC 2.4L cam gears I've had have the same back spacing so they can be used on either motor. If you were to use one of the 3 bolt AEM cam gears and flip it you probably wouldn't have to use a spacer. I'll check later since I have all the parts.
Last edited by neonrt_98 on Sat Nov 19, 2011 3:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Danteneon » Sat Nov 19, 2011 3:11 pm

I'm using a AEM Tru-time gear. Not so easy to flip :(
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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Post by neonrt_98 » Sat Nov 19, 2011 3:17 pm

Danteneon wrote:I'm using a AEM Tru-time gear. Not so easy to flip :(
You must have the newer 5 bolt AEM's. The old 3 bolt AEM's can be flipped.
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Post by Danteneon » Sat Nov 19, 2011 3:24 pm

Nope, it's a 3 bolt. I should have said I don't really want to flip it.
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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Post by neonrt_98 » Sat Nov 19, 2011 3:30 pm

Those are the ones we run on the 2.4's. Just unbolt the center, remove, flip gear, and reinstall center. There one of the best cam gears to run a 2.4.
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Post by Danteneon » Sat Nov 19, 2011 3:35 pm

Worse to worse that's what I'll end up doing. I have a brand new blue one in addition to the one on my car now.
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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Post by JeffB#2 » Sat Nov 19, 2011 3:46 pm

$600. What a joke.

I like how they rely on the word "billet" to make everything sound so high tech. LOTS of things start out with a solid piece of material. You could say that LOTS of things are "billet" if you use that logic.

A magical 5-layer gasket isn't even needed. But I know how they push those things almost like a live saving bible that we should all carry with us.

The AEM gear to use is a 3-bolt DOHC gear if you HAVE to have one for it. Then move the outer ring. Or use a spacer and a stock gear. No big deal.

"Kit" doesn't include correct length head bolts? No mention of that. You can't use the long SOHC bolts without cutting them to length. And all the DOHC bolts are too short.

You don't need a solid tensioner at all, stock SRT-4 tensioner will work PERFECTLY.



If I could figure out where I put my Mazda belt in the garage, I'd have this running this afternoon so my wife can have her side of the garage back. Geez.
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Post by Danteneon » Sat Nov 19, 2011 4:06 pm

That right there is the reason I thought this "kit" was going to be a joke. Billet. Whoo Hooo!!

I was wondering if they were going to address the head bolt and timing belt. Offer the correct lenght bolts, a cam spacer, and a normal width belt that fits for, say, around $150 - $200 and you are on to something. But since there aren't that many people who would do this conversion I'm guessing that they want to make their money on just a few kits and call it good. :roll:
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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Post by INVUJerry » Sat Nov 19, 2011 5:13 pm

Butt Jeff, Uteraz said billet da bes.
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Post by JeffB#2 » Sat Nov 19, 2011 5:13 pm

billet have soul, man
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Post by Donkeypuncher » Sat Nov 19, 2011 6:07 pm

After reading the stroker saga ( viewtopic.php?t=21489 ) and hearing this, not sure if I would do business with them.

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Post by neonrt_98 » Sat Nov 19, 2011 6:33 pm

Danteneon wrote:
INVUJerry wrote:If you find an AEM cam gear, you can use a JeffB#2 spacer for it.
And that would be said spacer :)
Danteneon wrote:I'm using a AEM Tru-time gear. Not so easy to flip :(
Danteneon wrote:Nope, it's a 3 bolt. I should have said I don't really want to flip it.
Ok I'm a little confused here. You said something about using the JeffB#2 spacer then you said you didn't really want to flip the cam gear. When using the JeffB#2 spacer you flip the cam gear but that's when using them on a 2.4L. If using a SOHC head on a 2.4L you can probably just flip the cam gear and not even use a spacer. The back spacing is almost the same on the 2.4L DOHC cam gears and 2.0L SOHC cam gears so if using the SOHC on a 2.4 short block it would need to be spaced out a little more so if you just use the 3 bolt AEM cam gear and flip it without using the spacer it should put the cam gear about where it needs to be.

Edited: I'm talking about the DOHC 3 bolt AEM's which are what JeffB#2 makes spacers for.
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Post by Public Disturbance » Sun Nov 20, 2011 2:10 pm

http://www.modernperformance.com/black- ... -2066.html

So if a guy were to have this cam gear he would need to have a spacer other then the JeffB#2 since its a 5 hole

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Post by neonrt_98 » Sun Nov 20, 2011 7:40 pm

The JeffB#2 spacer is for the DOHC 3 bolt AEM's when using them on the DOHC 2.4L. If using a SOHC head on the 2.4L block it would have to be spaced different. I'll get pics of the 3 bolt AEM's with and without spacers so people can see how they work.
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Post by JeffB#2 » Sun Nov 20, 2011 8:50 pm

Magnum intake manifold hits 1st and 2nd Gen starter solenoids when used on a 2.4 block. Just an FYI to anyone keeping score. I'm poking around for a solution other than grinding away at the intake lower section. lol. Mitsu 420A starter doesn't work either. Probably cut up a DOHC intake again later this week.
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Post by jonnymopar » Sun Nov 20, 2011 9:36 pm

JeffB#2 wrote:Magnum intake manifold hits 1st and 2nd Gen starter solenoids when used on a 2.4 block. Just an FYI to anyone keeping score. I'm poking around for a solution other than grinding away at the intake lower section. lol. Mitsu 420A starter doesn't work either. Probably cut up a DOHC intake again later this week.
Very interesting information right there. Would it fit with just a bit of grinding? Or is it not even close?
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Post by Danteneon » Mon Nov 21, 2011 8:52 am

neonrt_98 wrote:Ok I'm a little confused here. You said something about using the JeffB#2 spacer then you said you didn't really want to flip the cam gear. When using the JeffB#2 spacer you flip the cam gear but that's when using them on a 2.4L. If using a SOHC head on a 2.4L you can probably just flip the cam gear and not even use a spacer. The back spacing is almost the same on the 2.4L DOHC cam gears and 2.0L SOHC cam gears so if using the SOHC on a 2.4 short block it would need to be spaced out a little more so if you just use the 3 bolt AEM cam gear and flip it without using the spacer it should put the cam gear about where it needs to be.

Edited: I'm talking about the DOHC 3 bolt AEM's which are what JeffB#2 makes spacers for.
Sorry, I mis-read something in those posts that got me excited. I was thinking I could use my AEM SOHC gear as is with just a JeffB spacer and be golden. That is not the case. I still need to locate a AEM Tru-Time DOHC gear and a spacer. I don't want to flip the DOHC gear (when I get it) if I can avoid it.
JeffB#2 wrote:Magnum intake manifold hits 1st and 2nd Gen starter solenoids when used on a 2.4 block. Just an FYI to anyone keeping score. I'm poking around for a solution other than grinding away at the intake lower section. lol. Mitsu 420A starter doesn't work either. Probably cut up a DOHC intake again later this week.
So using a 2.4 starter doesn't work? Have you checked the manifold clearance against a Magnum starter?
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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Post by r/tguy02 » Mon Nov 21, 2011 12:45 pm

I was going to suggest the same thing as Dante, the mag starter is smaller and might do the trick
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Post by Public Disturbance » Mon Nov 21, 2011 12:50 pm

Ok the one thing I'm a little confused on is what block would be the best to use one out of a srt or pt(ngc) style or would I be better off using a 2.4 out of a 90's cloud car or will the srt engine plate not bolt up to those earlyer 2.4s. If a guy used the srt or pt block they would have to drill/weld they say oil passage as doing the dohc swap on the 2.0

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Post by JeffB#2 » Mon Nov 21, 2011 12:51 pm

There is a depression cast into the lower piece of the intake that makes room for the solenoid. Just barely enough room for it and the wire that plugs into the end of it. With the 2.4 block being taller, the depression is in the wrong place. The 2nd gen starters all have the solenoid clocked in the same position.
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Post by Danteneon » Mon Nov 21, 2011 1:50 pm

Ah, I didn't think about that. For some reason I keep thinking the manifold sits above the starter more than it does. Or, rather, that the Magnum manifold is smaller than it really is :lol:
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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Post by occasional demons » Mon Nov 21, 2011 2:10 pm

I re clocked the electrical connection on my '01 SE starter to make room for my Ghetto IM, but actually moving the solenoid position is not an option - without a different style starter.
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Post by Public Disturbance » Mon Nov 21, 2011 2:17 pm

Well shucks guess a guy would just have to run a box manifold for this

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Post by neonrt_98 » Tue Nov 22, 2011 10:21 pm

Danteneon wrote:Sorry, I mis-read something in those posts that got me excited. I was thinking I could use my AEM SOHC gear as is with just a JeffB spacer and be golden. That is not the case. I still need to locate a AEM Tru-Time DOHC gear and a spacer. I don't want to flip the DOHC gear (when I get it) if I can avoid it.
Do you even know how the spacer works or where it goes? The spacer goes between the center and the gear. The gear has to be flipped. The spacer is used to push the gear back closer to the head because when it's flipped it's push out to far.


Here are some pics to show how it works. I told some from a different angle so you can see how it offsets it. There isn't much difference in the offset of the SOHC 2.0L and DOHC 2.4L cam gears. They can actually be interchanged. The cam will need to be spacer out more when using a SOHC head on a 2.4L block, so the DOHC 3 Bolt AEM might work just fine if you flip the gear and don't use a spacer. I'll put a SOHC on the 2.4L block I have in garage and see which cam gear works the best.

DOHC 3 Bolt AEM as it comes for the 2.0L.
ImageImage

How it looks with the center removed.
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How it looks with the gear flipped.
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Here is the spacer with it.
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Spacer installed.
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Center reinstalled with gear flipped & spacer added.
ImageImage

How it looks with gear flipped & no spacer.
ImageImage

SOHC 3 Bolt AEM.
ImageImage
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